Started with a D16A6 mini-me swap with a chipped-for-vtec P06 computer with a 96+ OBDII automatic wiring harness, OBDII dizzy, Y7 intake, DSM 450 injectors and a turbo 'setup' *cough pos cough* and it ran.

Swapped out with stock D16Y7 with the same turbo, same harness, same dizzy, same intake + injectors, turbo vac lines connected correctly this time ... Will not fire with P06 computer. Swapped out with a *.... runs out to look at it...* stock P05 and it will not run.

Engine cranks fine, all dash lights light up, dizzy was swapped out with both engines @ TDC and timing has been attempted advanced, retarded, and everywhere in between.

I believe I have the firing order correct, but maybe not.

<- firewall

&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp4
3&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp2
&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp1&nbsp\

I've not yet checked for spark b/c I'm lazy and I don't want the ends of the wires to come off and I can't find my timing light

Yes, we're getting fuel (can hear fuel pump kick and can smell it if you open the butterfly valve on the t.b.

Any ideas?

 

Get out your timing light and check for spark.

No way around it. Could be a fouled plug.. timing off.. rotor slipped... cap not firing.. coil burned out...

 

Weird.

apparently the timing on this engine is like this:

&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp1
2&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp3
&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp4&nbsp\

??

I thought maybe it was 180 deg. off so I rotated them all and it fired up, tho it still has a miss. Found that the cap had flaking corrosion on the terminals. Brushed it off to find grooves from the rotor. Started: really bad miss. filled in with graphite from a pencil - much less of a miss (idles) however it still runs like dookie.

Altho I'm running a vtec-chipped P06. The stock P05 runs worse. I've tried adjusting the timing here and there but I'm more concerned that it's the computer and not the dizzy that's having a fit.

What do you think?

 

bump b/c I'm curious - anyone have a stock Y7 ecu in the Pittsburgh region they'd let go for cheap?

 

Hell, dealing with different ECU's??

Troubleshooting this one over a forum is beyond me. I could do it in person I know, but not over a forum. Maybe somebody else better at long distance troubleshooting will give it a go.

GL to you, hope you get it fixed.

 

just replace wires, plugs, and the dizzy at once........ Then go from there. And make sure you have the right firing order..... Maybe one of the wires is bad... Highly unlikely..... but pull every plug and ground against the block and see if they have spark. that will tell you if your wires are good... Check to make sure all the injectors are working. Hope it helps

 

I had this very same problem a few days ago with my 2000 Honda Civic. My car was working great when I went to work, but then it wouldn't start when I tried to leave. lol

A mechanic at work told me to change the ignition coil. He said that it was usually the culprit when he was an auto mechanic. I found some information in the service manual and online that explained how to test it, so I did. It tested well within tolerance so I didn't replace it. That cap, rotor, and spark plugs all looked like crap so I replaced them instead. Other people said my timing belt probably needed replacing. I gave up trying to fix the car myself and had it towed a mile from my house to a service shop.

My car now starts after spending $277, including $55 for towing, for them to troubleshoot the problem and replace my ignition coil. That doesn't include the money I spent on a distributor cap, rotor, and plugs. I told the guy at work what I had done and I got a well-deserved "I told you so!". He told me that you can't test ignition coils while they're cold.

Replace the ignition coil.

Good luck,
Chris

 

danke, but it's up - got it pooting around when the firing order was changed (this engine = 180 deg off from other engine.)

Raised the idle to about 700 rpm with the throttle cable, hooked up the alternator that was sitting against the frame instead of being hooked up (problem when 5 diff. people all work on one car at different times...) and it runs, tho it's got steam now.

I reckon my home-made intake manifold gasket is poop so we're picking up a store-bought one.

Then we're gonna re-fill & re-burp all the coolant lines. Speaking of which, I have a question:

I've flushed the radiator both ways and water goes in & out just fine, but when it's hooked up to the car, the bottom hose will stop flowing. Now keep in mind there's still coolant in the overflow and usually the top hose is still hot & swooshy. Bad rad, air bubbles, or both?