The car is a 1995 Honda Civic LX. The car has the factory-installed default head unit. (Every other audio component of the car is factory installed.)

My digital audio player is the 5th generation iPod with video.

I would like to connect my iPod to my car's speakers somehow. What comes to mind is how someone I knew did his car. He rewired his car so that his mp3 player was using the tape-player connection; when he wanted to listen to his mp3 player, he pressed the Tape button on his head unit. There was a relatively fat cable dangling from above the legspace of one of the front seats. The free end of that cable had a jack that simply plugs in to his digital audio player.

Here are some ways I do not want to connect, and reasons why:

* wireless FM tuner that connects to iPod (audio quality is not CD-quality)
* tape-deck (my tape player is broken, and audio quality not good)
* a high-tech new head unit to replace the factory-installed head (i would have to spend more money than is necessary)

I do not mind navigating my music my manipulating the iPod. I just want an inexpensive way (but with CD-audio quality) to connect my iPod to my car's audio system (its 4 speakers).
I'm willing to do some labor work (using screwdrivers, etc) in order to install whatever needs to be installed by myself.

To people who know cars and who know audio/electronics, I look forward to your replies.

Thank you in advance!




Modified by japanCivic at 11:59 PM 7/11/2007

 

If your looking for "CD quality" sound you will need an adapter that plugs into the HUs CD changer port and the iPods docking port, using an adapter the plugs into the iPods headphone jack is not an option for good SQ.
The proper adapters are not cheap...
http://www.icarkits.com/advanc...rt=4d

The PAC iPAC-OEM is a very good unit...
http://www.pac-audio.com/produ...h.asp

The new Blitzsafe iPod adapter is also turning out to be a very good and dependable unit...
http://www.logjamelectronics.c....html

There are a few more good ones, all ranging in that $75-$150 price point. 94

 

Thank you for your detailed reply.

I guess I should have said that I'm happy with the sound quality that comes out of my iPod's earphone jack. With that in mind, what are the options?

By the way, my head unit does not have a CD changer so I don't think it has a CD changer port, does it?
Thanks.

 

cheapest way:
$100 kenwood headunit with phono in jack on front
$15 wire harness
$20 dash kit
install yourself

 

Well if you can live with the SQ, the price will drop to around $25.

I would be surprised if your 95 Hondas HU did not have a CD changer port.
If not, then as mentioned a new HU, [iPod ready] is your best bet, should be able to get into one for around $200.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-h...wm=cl 94

 

Hello again

@FCM
I checked my Civic's head unit. There is a button that says:

AM/FM/CD.

With that button, I can currently switch from AM to FM and from FM to AM. Perhaps because I don't have a CD player/changer attached, it doesn't switch to CD mode.

@Incubus
Thank you for your reply.
Just wondering if it would be cheaper to buy the ff: http://www.installer.com/item/...sthd2
That thing will plug into the CD port, taking the place of an external CD changer. Its suggested retail price looks to be $90 USD, and it looks like I wouldn't be needing to buy a dash kit or wiring harness, is this correct?

Thank you once again, everyone, for your help.

 

Hi folks,
Just in case it helps with the discussion, here are photographs of the head unit.

 

The link you posted above will work, but you can spend less for the same thing: http://www.logjamelectronics.com/piehonaux.html.

The little round plug on the back of the head unit is the changer port, into which you will connect the aux input adapter.

 

You are correct, it will not switch to CD until there is something plugged into the port.
Also keep in mind, for both the link you posted and the one B18C_EJ8 posted you will still need the iPod to RCA adaptor, , [mini phono-RCA], both the ones I link have an iPod docking port adaptor, and this one... http://www.logjamelectronics.c....html is listed at $89.95. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are correct, it will not switch to CD until there is something plugged into the port. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>
X2

i have a problem with your thread title and what you're trying to accomplish here with your vehicle. so you're looking for a "cheap but hi-quality-audio way to connect my iPod to 95 Civic LX's audio/speakers"...the words "cheap" and "hi-" anything don't belong anywhere in the same sentence.

any of the suggestions that the other veterans here have stated, can and will work but you must rememebr that your sound is limited to your 12...almost 13 now...year old stock equipment. if your speakers are brittle and falling apart, no means of digital audio storage will help unless you update your equipment. you stated in your first post that you wish to not go with an aftermarket radio with more power, flexibility, and the proper inputs...but IMHO this is what you should be doing...you can do the input adapter like you wish...but that 13-year-old tape player and speakers will not do you, or your Ipod's music, any justice.

 

I'm not an audiophile. My ears are not refined/trained. They can't tell the difference between 128 kb/s MP3 quality and 200plus kb/s mp3 quality. When I say that I'm looking for hi-qauility audio, I guess I mean that I just don't want static or that kinda stuff.

I don't know how long this car will last me. This is why I don't want to invest too heavily into the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by japanCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not an audiophile. My ears are not refined/trained. They can't tell the difference between 128 kb/s MP3 quality and 200plus kb/s mp3 quality. When I say that I'm looking for hi-qauility audio, I guess I mean that I just don't want static or that kinda stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>

even to the untrained ear you can hear static. ever been in someone's car with one of those old tape converters that ran to a CD walkman? and then listened to that same CD on a real CD player and notice a definite difference. the tape converters always had that background hiss that was most definitely noticable and was definitely not burned onto the CD.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by japanCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't know how long this car will last me. This is why I don't want to invest too heavily into the car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the only reason i'm saying go with a new deck is because it's not like going to spend thousands on a B16 in your civic when the next car you get is a VW or Nissan....the new radio can be transferred to your new vehicle.

 

jz98,
Yes, the new head unit can be transferrable to any other car. You're right. I guess I was thinking about the wiring harness that is needed to connect the new head unit to the car's wiring (or something like that). Plus, there's also a dash kit which will make the installation fit just right. That isn't transferable.

You've given me something to consider, though. And for that, thank you!

 

the radio will be transferrable but you'd have to get a new interface harness (anywhere from $5-$15 on average) and maybe a new dash kit (anywhere from $5-$15 on average)if it was the same car or near the same model year of the same make of a vehicle....for example...you said you have a 95 civic...that same interface harness should work for just about every honda before the year of 99. dash kits are a little different. usually they're relatively inexpensive as i stated earlier but some can get more expensive...for example...the Acura RSX's and newer SI's will basically have to replace the dash assembly and can get upwards of $50. but for the most part it's an easy and relatively inexpensive way to transfer the radio from one vehicle to the next. and hell...when you get your new car you don't have to learn how to operate a new radio that's in it.

 

Hello,
It's me, the original poster again. Thank you all very much for your input and advice and sharing your wisdom. As someone who is quite new with cars and audio technology, I really appreciate it.


Yesterday, I acquired various FM transmitters so that I can know first-hand any possible differences, and to hear which one is best.

DLO TransPod (@ 2005)
Kensington pico FM Transmitter for iPod (model 33365)
Kensington Universal FM Transmitter for MP3 players
Belkin TuneFM for iPod (Part # F8Z075-BLK )
Belkin TuneCast Auto (F877101ttBLK)
Griffin iTrip (Part No. TG191VC/A)


When I tested them in the 1995 Civic I couldn't hear static. Yes, if you forced me to pay attention, I can tell that it's not exactly CD quality, but there was no "snap, crackle, and pop" with any of them. There was one of them... the tiny rectangular one that freely attaches to the dock... I forget which one now.. perhaps the Kensington pico FM transmitter or the Griffin iTrip, which "blanked/blacked out for a microsecond". But otherwise they all sounded ok.

Question: Since they all sounded okay, should I just go with the least expensive one?

Today, I brought the DLO TransPod with me to a 2004 Honda Pilot. I was surpised to hear a lesser sound quality, as compared with the Civic. And Cnet.com gave DLO Transpod its seal of approval. It made me think that if DLO TransPod had some static in the Honda Pilot, the others, which are supposed to have weaker transmission strength, would probably sound worse.


I don't know why there was this difference between cars. And, I thought, if there was to be any difference, I thought a newer vehicle should have sounded better.

Question: Do you why there was this difference?

I wish there was a scientific experiment done with these and other FM transmitters. It would be cool if we had some hard facts as to which of them really have stronger transmission strength, and put the strength down quantitatively. What I mean by this is: For a laboratory to say something like "Based on our FM Transmission Receptor Machine, the DLO Transpod has a transmission strength of XXX units, while the iTrip has a transmission strength of YYY units." All I want is some hard facts/numbers.

Question: Is this sort of information available?

 

In my Original Post (now updated with what I'm going to say in this post), I mentioned how my contact wired his mp3 player. This is what he did:

He rewired his car so that his mp3 player was using the tape-player connection; when he wanted to listen to his mp3 player, he pressed the Tape button on his head unit. There was a relatively fat cable dangling from above the legspace of one of the front seats. The free end of that cable had a jack that simply plugs in to his digital audio player.

I'm still waiting to hear what parts were used.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by japanCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
When I tested them in the 1995 Civic I couldn't hear static. Yes, if you forced me to pay attention, I can tell that it's not exactly CD quality, but there was no "snap, crackle, and pop" with any of them. There was one of them... the tiny rectangular one that freely attaches to the dock... I forget which one now.. perhaps the Kensington pico FM transmitter or the Griffin iTrip, which "blanked/blacked out for a microsecond". But otherwise they all sounded ok.

Question: Since they all sounded okay, should I just go with the least expensive one?

I don't know why there was this difference between cars. And, I thought, if there was to be any difference, I thought a newer vehicle should have sounded better.

Question: Do you why there was this difference?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you have to remember that every car is shaped differently interior-wise. the seats, door panels, dashboard, quaterpanels, roof-height, windshield angle are all different than in your civic. all these factors play into how the car "sounds". each car has it's own unique inherent acoustical properties due to it's shape. for example...if you take a pair of 12 inch subs in a box and put them in the trunk of a mercedes benz it will hit pretty good...but usually because of the way that the car is designed (where the gas tanks were mounted right behind the back seats instead of under the car, and both the metal tank and the liquid fuel itself tend to absorb a good amount of the vibrations) you tend to get less bass performance if you don't crank up the amp driving your subs. now if you take that same setup of amp and subs and put into a civic hatchback, or an SUV...and turn the gains on the amp DOWN you will most likely get more bass response than if you had the amp gains jacked all the way up in the Benz.

someone correct me if i'm wrong but i think it's called the "transfer function" of the car.