http://img528.imageshack.us/my...7.jpg

this is something i made out of 1/16 thick stainless and i cant seem to get that blue all the time just on occasion

i did it on 52 amps just barely pressing the pedel
regulator at about 30

any tips?

 

Why do you want a blue weld? That means its slightly contaminated. A perfect weld will be the same color as the base metal, according to Engloid. That picture is way too small/blurry for anyone to tell whats going on. A better picture would give us a much better idea whats happening.

Oh, and you didn't run it at 52 amps. Your machine setting is the max (pedal to the floor). Try setting it at say, 25 amps, and see where you have the pedal then.

 

it was set at 52 like i said i barely pressed the pedel, and it isnt anything for a car part. i like to make things out of scrap metal around the shop. its a wing for a bird ive been making.

http://img519.imageshack.us/my...3.jpg

 

You have to practice alot, and you'll get the hang of it, you'll realize there was a lot of dumb things you were doing when you first started, like gas flow, torch angle amperage etc. You have to look at what you're welding and figure out how much it really takes to join the two together and get ample penetration . On 16 gauge stainless my beads are tiny! but there's 100% penetration and the beads have great color. I'm using a little less then 52 but I'm moving pretty quick too

 

i dont understand how blue welds on stainless is slightly contaminated. when i do it i have gas turned up, i go super slow and hold the torch head really really close to the weld with the tungsten barely sticking out.

 

Well, if you see that when you end a section of weld, if on your post purge you pull it away early you'll get the blue/purple weld pretty easily. Truly, a stainless weld should have no color at all (Engloid's food service manufacturing industry factoid), but generally the gold/pinkish color is what you want.

 

alright i appreciate the info mangs i just didnt understand

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by berts95ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright i appreciate the info mangs i just didnt understand</TD></TR></TABLE>
Np, I had the same misconceptions when I started. The perfect weld is the same color as the base metal, but it usually goes gold, pink, red, blue/purple, black as you overheat/contaminate the metal.

 

Im not going to cover anything not already said (the whole "you dont want color cause it's bad mmkay"?)

Multiple key points in here. Gas coverage being one of them. If the metal is being melted at the proper temperature (amperage) and proper speed, then the base metal will have cooled down by the time the shielding gas has left the area, thus leaving a color consistent with the base metal. If it is too hot, the color changes because it is now being finish cooled by oxygenated air. If the metal is still RED hot by the time shielding gas is gone, then the finish weld turns gray. See where I'm going with this?

What I do to make up for my shortcomings in setting up the machine PERFECTLY to match what im welding, I will use a 1 1/4" dia gas lens to purge a massive area around what im welding, just in case if im too hot, the extra coverage will (usually) keep the metal safe. Also, make little shields around what your welding to maintain argon purge in the area.

Hope this helps!