I have a 2000 Civic Ex Sedan and the water temp sending unit is not working properly. From what I understand there are two units. One controls the fan, the other controls the guage on the dash. Is this correct? How do I tell which one is which? The dealer is telling me that only an OEM unit will work as a replacement, is this true? Also, can somebody possibly show a pic of where these units are? I have not been able to locate them! Thank you for any help!!!


Modified by Notty at 11:18 PM 7/5/2007

 

is the car over heating or is the temp gauge just not working?

 

It is not overheating, but the temp guage in the dash shows that it is. The dealer has said that one of the temp sending units has gone bad!

 

Of course the dealer is telling you that only an oem part will work...they want your money!
Is that true? Probably not...

The gauge sending unit is on the side of the head, and has a single plug - almost looks like a male headphone jack.
If I were you, I would call the parts store and see what they want for one, and compare this price with the dealer....you already know which will be cheaper.
You can change this part yourself too...
Just get some Permatex Ultra Grey, and put some of that on the threads when you insert it into the head.
It is easier to get to, if you remove the distributor (be sure to mark timing, if you do this, by drawing a straight line across the end cap and the dizzy)
Oh, and you should be aware that removing it will cause coolant to spill out (duh). Move fast and you wont have to really worry about cleaning up to much or draining the coolant down. After, you will have to bleed the system


In this picture, on the upper right -
Gauge sender is number 11
TORQUE SPEC IS 7 FT/LBS

Numbers 12 and 13 are the ect sensors themselves, which control the fan

 

amazing answer to the question... wow

 

Good luck with that. I've been batteling a #6 error code for months now on my EM1. It's the coolant temp sensor. I've gone and replaced all 3 of the coolant sensors, gone over the wiring more times than I can count (ohmed out all the wires from the plug to the ECU), and I still have the damn light. I've even gone as far as changing out the ECU and the damn light is still there. Wouldn't bother me any, but that code keeps the car from going into VTEC. Shitty shitty stuff.
Hope you have better luck than me.

 

have you checked the voltage of the pins at the ecu and at the connector?

 

errr, nope. Any idea where I can find a how-to for that? Actually I know how to. The voltage ranges would be nice to have.

 

just get a multimeter and stick the probes into the connector terminal and again at the proper ecu pins

ecu pinouts
http://technet.ff-squad.com/

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just get a multimeter and stick the probes into the connector terminal and again at the proper ecu pins

ecu pinouts
http://technet.ff-squad.com/
</TD></TR></TABLE>I work on big AC chillers for a living, so I know HOW to check the sensor/wires/voltage.

What I was wondering, since you mentioned checking voltage, is the propper range to look for.

 

hey, you get guys on this forum that try to jump their cel connector with one of those latex painted paperclips...you never know anymore...

You want 5v

Also, look for continuity with your connector and body ground - should be pin1 (red/white)

(My damn obd2 helms' keeps blabbing about silly scan tool connecting...maybe an EG manual would be more helpful (?) )

 

mine is overheating. Same year, same car. After practically replacing my whole cooling system but 2 sensors. Only wants to overheat within 200-250miles though bled the system several times..

 

Please start your own thread. This thread is 13 years old. If you have a question for one of the posters, PM them to see if they are still active.