alright so i got some wheels. They needed to be refinished.
Here is what they looked like before





from the close up you can kinda see that in some places the paint is sort of..I don't know the word for it but is problematic.
So I took one wheel and stripped it down to make sure it was not rust under the paint.
And this is what I found







Now the question is do I need to do any special treatment to the rim metal other then primer to make sure the "pealing" doesn't occur again or what.

 

sand paper sand paper sand paper blisters blisters blisters....

do not spray primer on top of those peeling spots because the top coat will come out shady.


or u can have them sand blasted at el dorados or any other sand blast place.

i hear there was a good inexpensive place for p coat on main street in chula but forget the name

 

after I removed that paint I sanded down the rims as well.
All those spots are smooth with the metal.

but are they some sort of corrosion stain or something.

do I sand down until those disappear??

 

are u sure they are smooth?

try a test coat on a portion of the rims until it dries and look at it.


looks like the acid/corrosion that has gotten under your OG paint..


try to pick at it w/ a razor blade...or finger nail

i have stripped down many rims and and i have tried to paint over that crap a couple times and the same **** happens....i can still see the outline of the corrosion under the top coat

 

will a sealer work to fix that either on top of the metal itself or over the first coat or primer

I'll sand it down some more but from what I can feel its smooth, wit no cracks or indents in the metal

 

ic..

i would try a test coat of paint just to make sure but no..i doubt u will need a special sealer.

 

It's wheel cancer. Sand through it and repaint it. All Japanese wheels become victim to this after a certain amount of exposure to the elements over there. Soooo much rain I just sand it off and paint over

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NIKE SB’d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's wheel cancer. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i am not sure of that..looks more like a mild form of psoriasis


ps: go home!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Opossum Jenkins &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i am not sure of that..looks more like a mild form of psoriasis
</TD></TR></TABLE>


i have a sandblast cabinet that would fit each wheel nicely. i'd blast em, then respray. easy as cake.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NIKE SB’d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's wheel cancer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Basically. It's not rust because only steel rusts. These wheels look to be made out of some aluminium alloy. Aluminium does not rust, it corrodes. Thus it is most likely corrosion. But from what I gather it gets treated essentially the same way.....sand the **** away.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by old man neri &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Basically. It's not rust because only steel rusts. These wheels look to be made out of some aluminium alloy. Aluminium does not rust, it corrodes. Thus it is most likely corrosion. But from what I gather it gets treated essentially the same way.....sand the **** away.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup. Corrosion occurs when a metal combines with oxygen (which is why it's also called oxidation). Lots of metals do this, including aluminum alloy. Rust is one form of corrosion, when iron combines with oxygen, forming that good old... rust- colored substance called iron oxide. Or, rust. The process can be expedited by the presence of other substances, not just moisture, but also salt - both of which are commonly present on highway pavement.

From Wikipedia:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wikipedia &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Corrosion is deterioration of essential properties in a material due to reactions with its surroundings. In the most common use of the word, this means a loss of an electron of metals reacting with water or oxygen. Weakening of iron due to oxidation of the iron atoms is a well-known example of electrochemistry (a branch of chemistry that studies the reactions that take place when an ionic and electronic conductor interfere) corrosion. This is commonly known as rust. This type of damage usually affects metallic materials, and typically produces oxide(s) and/or salt(s) of the original metal. Corrosion also includes the dissolution of ceramic materials and can refer to discoloration and weakening of polymers by the sun's ultraviolet light.

Most structural alloys corrode merely from exposure to moisture in the air, but the process can be strongly affected by exposure to certain substances (see below). Corrosion can be concentrated locally to form a pit or crack, or it can extend across a wide area to produce general deterioration. While some efforts to reduce corrosion merely redirect the damage into less visible, less predictable forms, controlled corrosion treatments such as passivation and chromate-conversion will increase a material's corrosion resistance.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

so basically you sand as much of it away as you can then what??

is there a treatment to the metal so it doesn't come back in the same spot.
I know there is a metal rust treatment.
It kinda like a clear coat and they spray it on metal they stay outside and have constant conact with things like salt and water.

 

there is no metal rust treatment really you can use. Just strip all thepaint off using aircraft stripper avil at wal-mart. Sand off all corrosion with 180grit, finish the rest of the rim with 320 grit, prime it 2-4 coats to level out the sanded area which wilvbe a lower surface, then gently wetsand 400 or 600grit the primer, 2 caots of color and 2 coats of clear. Personally i'd shoot 4 coats of clear for extra depth, and protection.

 

got them to look a bit better



still wet sanding them. I decided to use 1000 grit paper for wet sanding the center caps and wheels. After wards using heavy coats of white

I'm going to actually try to get some professional clear because I'm starting to notice that the store brand clears turn yellow from the heavy heat I believe

 

go up to 1500 and 2000 grit, man... looking great tho

 

did you paint over it? because it looks like you did.

It's corrosion from road salt in the winter. Some of you guys won't get them because of different weather (no snow)

I have them on my ls mesh as well and don't know what to do, because if i sand it, the original texture will be gone. Might want to use aircraft paint remover on it first to get rid of the clear coat, then start sanding

 

This is probably too late....But please read this it may help for the future.
When you have the corrosion on there, and want to get rid of it. You do need to chemically treat them. PPG makes a product called Alluminum Cleaner (PN:DX533) which deep cleans the aluminum. Also another product from PPG is (PN:DX579)Metal Cleaner which also works on aluminum and other metals. DO NOT apply these product over sandblasted metal whatsoever. when you sand blast metal it leaves tiny pits on the surface from the blast media. These products will stay in those pits and hinder adheasion. These product are cheap and easy to apply with a red scothbrite and will kill the corrosion. Once that is all done then you could use an epoxy primer (for adheasion).
Here are some steps that I would do if it were my wheels:

1. Strip paint with Aircraft Paint Remover using a good means of protecting your skin, eyes, and respiratory system. Along with a nylon bristle brush.
After you Spray (aerosol) or brush the stripper on let it sit for a few minutes,
then use the brush to help break up the paint film. you may have to repeat this step .

2. After all the paint is gone use the appropriate metal treatment per instructions
with red scotchbrite on the whole wheel but pay special attention to corroded areas.

3. Once step 2 in done let the wheel(s) air dry. then apply 2 coats of epoxy primer.
This will seal and protect the metal and add adheasion for you paint.

4. Once your epoxy primer has dried, (without sanding) you can use a high build (surfacer) 2K primer, Only if have repaired the wheel in any way (I.E. weld or fixed some dings. Then feather the 2K primer with some sandpaper. after you do this you will need to use some kind of preps-all cleaner to clean the surface again.
If you dont use the 2K primer then skip to the next step.

5.You can use a basecoat/clearcoat system or a high gloss single stage system for the finish coat, depending on if your color is a metallic or solid color (I.E. Silver Metallic-base coat or Bright White solid-single stage). Just because metallic paint is harder to spray in single stage.

I hope this may help somebody in the future.