Lately I've noticed an increase in valvetrain noise.

I didn't think much of it at first. It seemed to sound 'normal' to what I was used to with the Skunk2 Pro2+'s I have been running since October 2005.

Then, I started to notice a decrease in power on the butt dyno. The car just did not seem to have the top-end it once had.

Finally, the breaking point was at the track this past Friday night. My car, which usually traps 104-105mph was only trapping 96-97mph. (I also ended up limping home because of a broken alternator belt. )

That is when I really thought about the condition of my engine. It just made no sense to lose 7-8mph trap speeds.

So, yesterday the car was 'freshened' up, if you will.

My father and I popped the valve cover off, reset the cam gears to 0 and checked the valve lash.

We found every valve to have .012" of clearance!

Upon tightening them to .007" on the intake side, and .008" on the exhaust, the car sounded 500% healthier.

Also, before the valve adjustment, the car seemed to idle smoothly at 16 degrees of base timing. Now, 21 degrees is the only point at which it will idle, just like it used too.

After the car warmed up, I proceeded to do a few third gear pulls. From 7,500 to 9,000 RPM, the car wanted a bunch more fuel.

Now, she feels like a million bucks.

So, the moral of the story is, if you run BIG HONKIN' cams, check your valve lash often. I had not touched my valvetrain since March of '06 before this. Now, I will be making a point to check/adjust every 6 months.

- Derek

 

wow a good informative post in the all motor forum. to you.

i cant agree more with valve adjustment every 3-6 months on a dd car.

 

shame on you for going that long without a valve adjustment! especially with those big a$$ cams!
good reminder though, a lot of people forget some of the simplest things that should be done regularly, and it really hurts them.
like the guy who didn't clean his K&N filter for over a year. cleaned it, dyno'd it, free'd up like 7whp LOL

 

very often we forget those damn basic stuffs.

nice to hear you regained the power loss.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ipodhustle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">shame on you for going that long without a valve adjustment! especially with those big a$$ cams!
good reminder though, a lot of people forget some of the simplest things that should be done regularly, and it really hurts them.
like the guy who didn't clean his K&N filter for over a year. cleaned it, dyno'd it, free'd up like 7whp LOL</TD></TR></TABLE>

My sentiments exactly.Lazy people are morons.

 

do a check every month.. checking wont take u over 10 - 15 mins anyways... u can even do it will joking with some peeps around since checking it aint that critical.

 

Indeed.

The simplest things are usually the most overlooked.

- Derek

 

Good post!!! I need to check my valves soon im at the 500miles mark on my new engine and my valves are making a lot of noise when im driving around


Modified by DA_JDM at 12:56 PM 7/2/2007

 

Good post D-rob,
It's been a while since I checked the lash on my daily driver nonVTEC build. And considering that it runs .450" lift IN/EX all the time it probably beats the valvetrain even more than the high strung VTEC engines.

I've got something to do tonight!

Pirate

 

good info!!

 

It amazes me how many people come to the dyno with cars that sound like diesels. Nice to see a reminder on H-T
Good on ya mate

 

good post!! very useful information

 

great post, im getting my valves re-adjust. this week.

 

maintenence posts are helpful these engines can be a real pain
the harder you beat them without knowing how to set them straight

 

good post!

 

I adjust my lash every 6,000 miles on my stock Y7.

 

its important to check it often. i felt a big difference doing one.

 

I don't have .007" in my filler Gage,
It Have .006 and .008", Ill recheck mine today..

 

.007IN .009EX

 

just had my valve lash set correctly and now my motor doesnt tick like it used to!!

 

What its the valve adjusment for Skunk 2 stage 2?

Now i have .008 in .010ex

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k_civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What its the valve adjusment for Skunk 2 stage 2?

Now i have .008 in .010ex
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's a little loose(but within spec)-valve train a little noisy?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's a little loose(but within spec)-valve train a little noisy?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not noisy, but a little friction scracht in vtec lobe, only in ex cam( wierd man) just a little... Thats happen with CTR valve spring, now i have Skunk 2 valve spring. Re-adjust the valve .007in-.008ex?


Modified by k_civic at 11:09 AM 7/20/2007

 

Have the same problem As Derek, few where at .0010 and .0012,
There is a Big difference in performance,

 

Holy crap i going to do mine now lol thanks Rob