I just bought an 03 yellow S2k recently and i'm looking at all my options i'm not new to Honda's but I am a noob at the S2k. I'm kind of scared to beat up on my rear end since I saw a thread on here the other day of a guy who cracked his rear end. Any help is appreciated

 

The only good way is to do a diff swap. Inline pro offers a kit but its a couple grand plus you have to supply the diff from a 300zx.

 

The 300zx rear end conversion if for someone with power in mind, if you dont plan on making alot more power then it will simply be over kill.
There are a few good places that will sell you a Comptech reinforced casing and cryo'd gears; this is all you need for a reliable/stronger diff on a semi-stock s2k.

 

if u use the inline pro kit for a diff you can still use honda brakes and **** rite

 

I'm curious about this as well... some local guys recommended the 300ZX kit even if I say NA just for peace of mind that the differential will not be the piece that breaks (if anything does).

My goal right now is just to stick to an NA build, but not to have to worry about shattering the rear end on my 5-year-loan beast. Still pisses me off that my old car (88 Prelude) took 7000rpm clutch dumps all day long for the 6 years I owned it and never broke anything, but this 'high performance' expensive machine wears glass slippers, ya know?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kalm_traveler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm curious about this as well... some local guys recommended the 300ZX kit even if I say NA just for peace of mind that the differential will not be the piece that breaks (if anything does).

My goal right now is just to stick to an NA build, but not to have to worry about shattering the rear end on my 5-year-loan beast. Still pisses me off that my old car (88 Prelude) took 7000rpm clutch dumps all day long for the 6 years I owned it and never broke anything, but this 'high performance' expensive machine wears glass slippers, ya know? </TD></TR></TABLE>


ohh i feel ya... i still dont understand why honda made the dif so weak. An upgrade would be an AP2 dif... there stronger than the AP1's but if you are planning on beating on it a lot, def go with the comptech dif... def a lot stronger...

 

You could eat more

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SupersonicBlueGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


ohh i feel ya... i still dont understand why honda made the dif so weak. An upgrade would be an AP2 dif... there stronger than the AP1's but if you are planning on beating on it a lot, def go with the comptech dif... def a lot stronger...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

comptech is out of business and their reinforced diff housing is no stronger than an ap2 diff.

 

 

so you're saying I should buy an AP2 differential? or just the housing? I'm confused....

Also, can I retain my AP1 ring gear or whatever to keep stock gear ratios?

Really I'm just trying to figure out the most sensical way to get that read end to put up with abuse without having $5000 in custom crap made.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kalm_traveler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so you're saying I should buy an AP2 differential? or just the housing? I'm confused....

Also, can I retain my AP1 ring gear or whatever to keep stock gear ratios?

Really I'm just trying to figure out the most sensical way to get that read end to put up with abuse without having $5000 in custom crap made. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Engrish P()wns J00!!!
haha jk

AP2 should be fine... what exactly are ur plans for the car... you might be fine with keeping the stock dif on... you kinda got beat the **** outta it in order for it to break

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SupersonicBlueGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Engrish P()wns J00!!!
haha jk

AP2 should be fine... what exactly are ur plans for the car... you might be fine with keeping the stock dif on... you kinda got beat the **** outta it in order for it to break</TD></TR></TABLE>
I figured it was the opposite of this word: http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/nonsensical but there's no entry for it

Anywho, for the next year or two I just want to build it up NA to see what it can do. If I go all out with a solid NA build and it's not fast enough I'll start over going for a 30psi turbo setup.

Really I just want to know that I can launch without being at a high risk of shattering the diff housing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondakevin21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just bought an 03 yellow S2k recently and i'm looking at all my options i'm not new to Honda's but I am a noob at the S2k. I'm kind of scared to beat up on my rear end since I saw a thread on here the other day of a guy who cracked his rear end. Any help is appreciated </TD></TR></TABLE>

My advice to you is...

Dont do 9000rpm clutch drops in 1st gear, do learn how to modulate the clutch when launching the car at high rpms without dropping it, and learn how to drive the nice without being abusive.

There are lots and lots of us (well not me, my s2k was crushed..but anyways) with stock rear ends running around who have never had problems. So as long as you dont abuse it its not gonna break.

liam

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Francesco &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

comptech is out of business and their reinforced diff housing is no stronger than an ap2 diff.</TD></TR></TABLE>

since when was this proven?

i hardly believe just because they are out of buisness doesn't mean comptech parts are hard to come by at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kalm_traveler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so you're saying I should buy an AP2 differential? or just the housing? I'm confused....

Also, can I retain my AP1 ring gear or whatever to keep stock gear ratios?

Really I'm just trying to figure out the most sensical way to get that read end to put up with abuse without having $5000 in custom crap made. </TD></TR></TABLE>


define abuse.


as long as your not running your car into the ground, litterally, you should be fine.

AP2 and AP1 ring gear are identical, no sence in switching the two, just swap pumkins silly ....shitm pick up a 4.56 while your at it. expletive the stock 4.10

unless you are running some mad TYTE b00st levels....you will not need a 300zx rear end conversion, dear god son.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kalm_traveler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Still pisses me off that my old car (88 Prelude) took 7000rpm clutch dumps all day long for the 6 years I owned it and never broke anything, but this 'high performance' expensive machine wears glass slippers, ya know? </TD></TR></TABLE>

fwd launch is not the same as rwd launch. with fwd car, the harder you launch the more weight transfer to the rear and LESS traction in the front. with rwd cars, the harder you launch, the more weight transfer to the rear and MORE traction. learn how to launch your car and you won't have to worry about exploding the rear diff. burnouts doesn't make your car go any faster.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by silentdancer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> </TD></TR></TABLE>haha i was thinkin the same ****!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Techno Tonis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


define abuse.


as long as your not running your car into the ground, litterally, you should be fine.

AP2 and AP1 ring gear are identical, no sence in switching the two, just swap pumkins silly ....shitm pick up a 4.56 while your at it. expletive the stock 4.10

unless you are running some mad TYTE b00st levels....you will not need a 300zx rear end conversion, dear god son.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Abuse to me just means driving it hard... you know, like occasionally dumping the clutch, occasional speed-shifting, etc. In other words, drivin like you stole it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Techno Tonis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

since when was this proven?

i hardly believe just because they are out of buisness doesn't mean comptech parts are hard to come by at all. </TD></TR></TABLE>

their was a side to side comparrison of the ap2 diff and the comptech housing. people have blown comptech rears also

 

This might be a dumb question but does cryo'd gears basically work harden the material?

I'm not looking to make an un-godly amount of power but I just want to have some insurance that it'll hold more-than-stock power.
Thanks for the replies so far.......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Francesco &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

their was a side to side comparrison of the ap2 diff and the comptech housing. people have blown comptech rears also </TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm, good to know

 

doesnt jun make a diff swap also?