I got my Integra painted for $1,500 but was left with orange peel all over, so I was told that it'll all buff right out and I decided to try buffing out my front end and now I'm left with a dull front end, with the rest of the car wrapped in orange peel. I'm going on vacation for a week so I will update with pictures then, but until then I'd like all the help I can get.

-Am I incorrectly buffing my car? (I wet sand with 1,000, 1,500, and then finish with 2,000 and apply M3 Rubbing Compound. But by the time I'm done wet-sanding the orange-peel off, the car looks dull, I figured that's what M3 Rubbing Compound was for but I seem to be mistaken since even after I apply it the paint still looks dull.)

-Is there a chance that I need another coat of clear? If I spray clear coat on what looks like a dull surface my thinking is that it'll just protect a dull surface or would it actually give the surface the shine and gloss I'm looking for?

Thanks for all your help I'll be on vacation for a week but like I've said before I could use all the help I can get.

 

How are you applying the compound, by hand, by PC, or by Rotary?

 

I've tried it by hand and then with a rotary, what's a pc?

 

it sounds like you didn't buff enough on the wetsanded area. if your car has been painted for a while they will be hard to buff out, and if you leave the scratches over vacation they will be even harder to buff out

 

After the rubbing compound u need to hit it with some glaze and then wax.

i prefer a foam pad and a rotary.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fobtions &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After the rubbing compound u need to hit it with some glaze and then wax.

i prefer a foam pad and a rotary.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what he said is correct.


do number 1 with a soft pad. then number 2 with the foam. and then finish with glaze by hand.

also you dont need to really do 1000 1500 then 2000. just do it with 1500. will take a lot less time, then having to go through all 3 grits.

 

The only way the shine isn't coming back up is cus you sanded through the clear.

 

ya if the 3 step fobtions said doesnt work, im thinking you sanded threw the clear.. Happend to my brothers car, we did all 3 steps and it still had a dull look and found out that we sanded threw the clear. Lets hope you didnt though.

 

For $1,500, I wouldn't have tolerated orange peel. I'd take it back.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SGVridgerunner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For $1,500, I wouldn't have tolerated orange peel. I'd take it back. </TD></TR></TABLE>

1500 here in Hawaii is a shitty paint job. Apparantly it's more expensive here. For 1500 here you'd have to live with peel.

 

better hope you didnt sand though the clear!!

 

should have taken it back to the shop and told them to buff the car for you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fobtions &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After the rubbing compound u need to hit it with some glaze and then wax.

i prefer a foam pad and a rotary.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ummm, you need to POLISH after compound, not go straight to glaze. this is why bodyshop "detailers" leave cars full of holograms

 

Glazes just cover up marring as well....

 

Glaze!!

That **** makes your car look way clean.

Tell the shop to do it. They got paid so much and didn't even take care of it all?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by metal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Glazes just cover up marring as well....</TD></TR></TABLE>

cover up, yes. correct, no.

 

Holograms come from improper use of a polisher.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA JeLLie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Holograms come from improper use of a polisher. </TD></TR></TABLE>

compounding is still going to leave some sort of marring. you cant just go straight from compounding to glaze, unless of course you like to improperly compound a vehicle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

compounding is still going to leave some sort of marring. you cant just go straight from compounding to glaze, unless of course you like to improperly compound a vehicle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what do u suggest ?

or are u gonna comment on how people are wrong

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fobtions &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what do u suggest ?

or are u gonna comment on how people are wrong </TD></TR></TABLE>

I would suggest a polish between compound and glaze.

and I have covered this 382045390349 times in this forum already.

 

I didn't go to a shop for it, I found aandrewcc on the honda-tech forums and he said he could do it. I think the problem was that I was only going to be in town for a week so he probably didn't have enough time to let the paint flash. If I did wet sand through the clear does anyone here think it'll be a bad idea to buy a spray can of clear at kragen's and try spraying it over the dull paint?

 

I agree 100% with E-rok. I was also taught that glaze just temporarily hides. Most of the time, I finish w/ polish and no glaze. Its all common sense, you get a tool designed to polish a surface, such as a painted car. You get a polish compound that is meant for automotive paint, then you get to it. My method is 3 easy steps, wetsand, machine buff, machine polish.


Modified by powerflow at 8:09 PM 7/3/2007

 

If good auto grade clear is baked in a heated booth properly, it can be buffed ect. almost right away, give it a few hours. Thats if someone isn't a noob.

I'm sure you meant to cure and not to flash. If you sand through the clear you will have a mess, spray can idea is bad.

 

First of all...

Let's take some time to evaluate the products we are using...

Rubbing compound: heavy abrasive that usually doesn't break down to a smooth polish

Cleaner/Polish: Light abrasive used to remove defects and marring left behind by the heavier compounds

Glaze: This is merely a beautification product usually used by show car enthusiasts on show days and body shops on delivery days. It contains no abrasive to remove defects. It's sole purpose is to make the paint look good. (Until you wash it off)

Sealant/Wax: This is what protects you paint from the elements. heat, cold weather, UV rays, rain, etc. (everything the paint surface sees on a daily basis)

So....

Based on your process, it doesn't seem like you evaluated your surface before you started working, you just grabbed what you had and went at it.

What if buffing alone could have gotten you the results you wanted?
Always try to use the least abrasive products FIRST to test your process.

If you have not gone through the clear you should be ok, but you process needs a cleaner/polish to bring your shine out. Rubbing compound does not bring out shine.




Modified by brad. at 1:38 AM 7/4/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnxboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what he said is correct.


do number 1 with a soft pad. then number 2 with the foam. and then finish with glaze by hand.

also you dont need to really do 1000 1500 then 2000. just do it with 1500. will take a lot less time, then having to go through all 3 grits.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can someone recommend what rotary I should use? I got one from Kragen's but all it doesn't seem to be doing anything. Not to mention that it only has a soft pad, no foam option there.