I searched but only found people having trouble with the install.

So I am trying to get a euro r manifold and work out the problem before hand. I know the intake affects how the car runs and leans it out so do I need a tune after? I assume yes, but have an sh. So I am not willing to give up atts so was looking into a vafc. I then found out that because it does not tune the ignition it can cause some longevity issues with the engine. On to the greddy emanage units which are expensive and cost a lot to get tuned. Heres the thing I want a RMF header with the IM, and only want to tune once because its ******* expensive. I also dont want to reduce the reliability of the engine because of the manifold.

Since money is always an issue I want to do things in stages. So back to the tuning, what are your thoughts.

 

Port match your stock IM to your head and you got yourself a USDM Euro-R. Seriously though, I don't see what the big hype about the Euro-R is. If you have the EuroR IM layin' around, then why not. But if you have to seek and find the parts, then find a tuner, then all the BS in between ..... not worh the extra 2 whp.

 

Wells its part of the building process. With the new IM you will see noticeable gains, even more with supporting mods, and then even more when it gets a proper tune.

So any thoughts about the tuning?

EDIT: come on, throw some ideas my way


Modified by Freerider at 9:43 PM 6/29/2007

 

you won't need to tune for just the IM.

 

mostly all simple bolt ons don't NEED to be tuned for, you just get better power gains out of your mods when you do tune for them.

the Euro R isn't so radically different that it would require tuning for the car to run.

 

Yea, I fugired it would. I found out that since it does suck in so much air per pulse the ignition would need to be tuned. Other wise the spark does not fire at the perfect time which can cause all sorts of problems

Heres how it was explained to me on another forum

"thats the thing though, its not just the fuel it affects, but also MBT. basically the ignition tune. which a vafc cannot adjust. an afc is ok to use on a stock motor with stock compression and stock manifolds, but not even close to whats necessary when changing the most important part of an engine that has the highest affect on the tune; the intake mani.

stay away from the afc, and get at least a chipped ecu or emanage ultimate.

obviously i cant stop you from using an afc, i can only advise against it to the strongest extent, but 1- 1 1/2 hours on the dyno should be sufficient for an afc tune. and the cost is still the same as blue01 said, about $150-$200 an hour for dyno rental and tuning labor cost and equipment

a standalone ecu tune (hondata, chipped ecu, neptune, aem...) will be at least 4 hours for a full tune. probably closer to 6.

people really need to start understanding the importance of the effect the intake manifold and cams have on the tune. ITS NOT JUST FUEL THAT IS AFFECTED!! yes it may work, but it will drastically shorten the life of your engine, and barely effect the power gains from those parts. the tune is the largest difference in power you will ever make! and the most important for reliability!

sorry, intake mani is not the single most important thing, cams are equal.
cams and the intake manifold, together or seperately, have the largest effect on the tune. ANY change in either of these requires a full tune, not just a fuel tune. the exception is cams that have barely any difference in duration or lift. second to these is the compression ratio

wait til you get a header. then install the header and intake mani at the same time and go pretty much right away to get a full tune with some form of standalone or fuel and ignition correcting piggyback like the emanage ultimate."

"as for fuel not being the only important aspect of a tune, ignition is too. cuz the MBT (basically the optimum time for the spark plugs to spark) is fully dependant on how much air and fuel is entering the engine at that time. and the intake mani alters the amount of air coming in at all the different points. requiring a change in the amount of fuel entering at that time too, which alters the optimum time the spark plugs should be sparking at. which means in some cases, even if you get the fuel right, with a stock ecu the plugs wont fire at the optimum time for that point.
which means it would be too retarded in some areas causing too hot of exhaust temps and the possibility of burning a valve and toasting your valve seals and possibly guides. and also means it would be too advanced in some areas causing pre-ignition and/or detonation. which we all know is a very very badd thing"

-motoxxxman


Modified by Freerider at 8:57 AM 6/30/2007

 

So anyway I am hopefully going to pick up a greddy ultimate soon which will allow to to tune and keep atts.

 

bump for more thoughts