I have a 92' VX hatch that I am doing a rear disc swap on the parts are all bolted up the rear disc came out of a 94' civic coupe and the e-brake cables came out of a 94+ Integra and the MC is for a 91' EX. The problems that I am having is that it seems that the e-brake cables are too long when I engage the e-brake it pulls tight on one side and not the other. on the side that is pulled tight it still will not engage the e-brake the spring does not move at all. The other problem that I am having is that it does not seem to have very much peddel pressure at all even after bleeding the brakes 5 times. Toss out of ideas about what is going on here guys because I am stuck.

 

You don't need that 91 EX 15/16" master cylinder unless your installing integra front brakes as well. The rear discs by themselves displace the exact same amount of fluid as stock drums. I know because I currently have this setup and have a rock hard pedal with the stock 13/16" master cylinder...

As for the parking brake cables, did you set the parking brake mechanisms in the calipers already?

- block front tires
- jack up rear of car
- loosen parking brake handle adjusting nut all the way (without it falling off)
- start car & firmly press on the brakes several times
- shut off car and pull up e-brake handle 1 click
- adjust brake handle adjusting nut until rear brakes barely start to drag
- Now pull handle all the way up & see if the equalizer is more evened out...

 

94 civic coupe......................... means its an abs unit, i thought you couldnt use abs units?

the 15/16 mc is an upgrade for his set up from 13/16ths. you needed to grab the braket that the e brake cabels were connected to in the donor car thats why they seem short, but you can re drill and physically move your bracket up if needed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 951BRO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">94 civic coupe......................... means its an abs unit, i thought you couldnt use abs units?

the 15/16 mc is an upgrade for his set up from 13/16ths. you needed to grab the braket that the e brake cabels were connected to in the donor car thats why they seem short, but you can re drill and physically move your bracket up if needed </TD></TR></TABLE>

It doesn't matter if the brakes came off an ABS car or not. The only difference as far as the suspension parts go, is the little gear-pulse ring on the rear hubs. Beyond that, you simply remove the ABS sensor and be on your way...

And your comment on the 15/16" MC being an "upgrade", doesn't make any sense. If he is pushing more fluid than he needs, he's gonna end up with an extremely short pedal that will be nearly impossible to modulate...

 

Don't you need the 4040 prop valve? I don't think this is causing your problem but I might help some.

I'm having the same problem with my car though. I did the rear SI swap on my car. The brakes are drivable but don't seem to be as firm as they were before. Im still trying to figure out why.

 

no, the prop isnt necessary...

Are you sure you routed the cables correctly? I had the same issue for awhile, but I was using brand new cables, which needed to stretch a bit.
I am a strong advocate of using the right cables for the chassis, but I would first adjust your parking lever (correctly) and see if over time it evens out.

 

rear caliper issue. the e brake cables arent pulling tight and no rear brake pressure

 

no, the prop isnt necessary...

i thought the prop was necessary and the master cylinder wasnt?

wtf?

 

I personally think the prop is necissary, and used an integra 4040 on my rear disc swap. Some guys don't think it's necissary, and some of them use their cars on road tracks. I would perfer to swap it because Honda did it...

 

if ur just gonna swap the rear discs in the 4040 prop valve isn't really that necessary, but i think if ur doing a whole integra conversion than yea, the 4040 prop valve is important.

 

Those integra cables should work fine on your car. I have ITR ebrake cables on my 95 hatch. If everything is bolted onto the caliper just try adjusting the ebrake cables and that should solve your problem. Also make sure you have the right cable on the right side and same with the left cable.
I have SI rear disks and didnt change prop valve or MC/BB and it does a great job stopping with brembo blanks and axxis pads

 

^^^Needed to kno this, but if the pedal is low its best to change the MC correct?

I am gonna be doing the rear Si disc conversion on my hatch soon, the drum brake e-brake cable will work on it right?

Dont mean to hijack just curious

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Adr!an &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^Needed to kno this, but if the pedal is low its best to change the MC correct?

I am gonna be doing the rear Si disc conversion on my hatch soon, the drum brake e-brake cable will work on it right?

Dont mean to hijack just curious </TD></TR></TABLE>

no, drum ebrake cables are different from disc brakes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Adr!an &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^Needed to kno this, but if the pedal is low its best to change the MC correct?

I am gonna be doing the rear Si disc conversion on my hatch soon, the drum brake e-brake cable will work on it right?

Dont mean to hijack just curious </TD></TR></TABLE>

If the pedal is low with a simple rear disc swap, then you need to re-bleed because you do in fact still have air in the system. Changing things like the prop valve can put a lot of air into the system, and will require quite a bit of bleeding to get all of it out...

YOU DON'T NEED A LARGER MC FOR A REAR DISC SWAP!!!