I've had my eyes on the aem v2 for the longest, I just wanted to know if it is worth the price??(which i have found as low as $277 shipping included) Do any of you suggest a better intake??? ...thanks for the help

 

LMFAO.. I was laughing when i read this on AEM's site.

"The AEM V2 utilizes a dual chamber (using two different diameters and lengths of piping) that creates <U>multiple frequency sound waves </U>to produce the largest area under the curve of any intake system on the market. "

If you understand the concepts and logics behind how everything works you'd understand what i'm talking about and why i'm laughing, especially at what they said.

Are they serious with this crap? Don't waste your money.. that thing is a hunk of ****.

If you're lookin at an intake go to Autozone and buy a no name intake or buy one off of ebay. All an intake is, is a mandril bent tube fitted for your car.


Modified by risktypeS at 8:44 PM 6/28/2007

 

Is there any other input on this...People who own v2s??? I have been doing a fair amount or research on this thing and it seems to be fairly legit (while still laughably far feched, i also read aem's discription of the v2 lol) from what i've seen in the rsx forums i've been on. But what dosn't seem right is the placement of the damn thing so close to the engine. If you have seen the pics of the v2 on the ep3 you know what i'm talking about (heat-soke is a major problem with intakes from what ive read). So is there any other takes on this if so i would really appreciate the feedback...thanks.

 

there are other takes on intakes on the forum somewhere.. big discussion about that but not on just AEM v2's in specific

also my roommie and this guy had a bet to see which one was more powerful on the dyno and they tested the aem V2, j's racing funky looking intake and a Autozone SRI and the Autozone intake outperformed all of em. LOL i thought it was funny but if you sit and think about the dynamics of how air travels and what happens at bends and a lot of other goodies you'd catch why's and what's.

 

I have a V2 on my EP. Really wish I hadn't bought it. All it does is suck hot air from the back of the motor. Waste of money. I should pull my head out of my *** and take it off. Just too lazy at the moment.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by risktypeS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are they serious with this crap? Don't waste your money.. that thing is a hunk of ****. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a V2, and I have to say... that's pretty much right. Although it's really not like a CAI on our cars (the engine layout prevents it), but the whole "multiple frequency" thing seems like hogwash to me. Plus, like any SRI, it has to deal with the toasty underhood air, which is especially lag-inducing in hot weather in traffic. If you're going to get one, don't pay full price.

So... what do I think is the best intake? For the money, I'd keep the stock airbox, gut the inside so it's open & smooth, put on a high-performance filter, and either buy a T1R-style intake duct or fabricate a copy to get fresh air from in front of the radiator. That's the best way to keep good throttle response, avoid hydrolock, and get cooler intake temperatures.

 

I really get a kick of of this 'heat-soak' bandwagon. Anyone who's monitored intake air temps while driving can tell you - as soon as you start moving, it goes down. The engine compartment isn't sealed.... If your really concerned about IAT's, get a Hondata gasket because your 300 degree intake manifold is what heats up the air, not the AEM.

As far as horsepower goes, they are all going to be pretty much the same. It's just a filter on a bent pipe, there's no magic. You'll see about 5 HP at the wheels. For all these guys saying they make 10+, 15+, whatever. I can play with correction factors and smoothing on a dyno to make a customer happy too.

knowledge &gt; internet hearsay


Modified by Thomas Jenkinson at 9:30 AM 7/1/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Thomas Jenkinson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I really get a kick of of this 'heat-soak' bandwagon. Anyone who's monitored intake air temps while driving can tell you - as soon as you start moving, it goes down. The engine compartment isn't sealed.... If your really concerned about IAT's, get a Hondata gasket because your 300 degree intake manifold is what heats up the air, not the AEM.

As far as horsepower goes, they are all going to be pretty much the same. It's just a filter on a bent pipe, there's no magic. You'll see about 5 HP at the wheels. For all these guys saying they make 10+, 15+, whatever. I can play with correction factors and smoothing on a dyno to make a customer happy too.

knowledge &gt; internet hearsay


Modified by Thomas Jenkinson at 9:30 AM 7/1/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

Man is it hard to find people who understand these concepts to. I just gave up preaching to the choir, but out of all that you say that's why i just stick to a SRI. Don't care what brand is it, can be autozone, pepboys whatever. Just as said "it's just a mandrel bent tube with a filter".

 

Thanks for all the help, honestly. It helps to get feedback from people who aren't trying to sell me something.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Thomas Jenkinson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I really get a kick of of this 'heat-soak' bandwagon. Anyone who's monitored intake air temps while driving can tell you - as soon as you start moving, it goes down. The engine compartment isn't sealed.... If your really concerned about IAT's, get a Hondata gasket because your 300 degree intake manifold is what heats up the air, not the AEM.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Right, which is why I wrote "in traffic" in my post. My EP really does take off better from a stop and have better throttle response in crawling rush hour traffic if it's got the stock airbox.