SKUNK2 VALVE SPRINGS & TITANIUM RETAINERS B SERIES would the Ls rev up higher than 6200 rpms? And is it all right if you put on a stock ls

 

i don't think so, your botom ends still weak. also the b18b/a wount have any power up there anyway... so why risk it.

 

You're not gaining anything with the stock cams,think some Crower 402/403/404's plus springs and retainers and some ARP rod bolts,then you'll be on the right track to making higher RPM power,the factory rev limiter is there for a reason and I believe it's 6800 on my 91 RS.

 

the rods, from what i have read in the all motor forum (and been told by bambam himself), are only good up to about 7K. after that the rod bolts arent strong enough (again, from what i have heard). this is why most guys who do end up using the stock crank and rods in an LS/VTEC setup get the rods shotpeened with ARP rod bolts and have it balance up to 9-10K. plus, like the other guys said, you wont be making much power past 6500-6700 anyway. in my 90 LS DA (redline at 6500) i would sometimes shift at 6000-6200 just because it wasnt worth the last 300 or so RPM. go in the allmotor forum and look at the LS/VTEC writeup by bambam... there you go https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1676914 and read what he wrote. the guy knows his ****.


Modified by DAmnquickDA at 10:26 PM 6/28/2007

 

What if I put a gsr crank make a difference yeah I really don't want to go ls/vtec unless its a lot cheaper then trying to get higher rpms on a ls

 

What's the point of getting into the higher RPM's? To be cool or prove a point to someone? Cuz it's not gonna do ****. You don't make power up to there anyways.

You're gonna need some high lift cams anyways if you want to make power and rev higher, and you need to tune it because the rev limiter will restrict it.

Think of it like this... your motor's most efficient power range is about 3000-6500rpm. That's where the motor gets the torque from, after 6800 or even 7000 the internals are moving so fast that everything can't keep up and you actually lose power.

Revving high doesn't mean your car is faster. I can rev to 17000000000rpm but only make power to 600rpm.

See what I'm sayin'? Any questions, pm me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InLtegSra94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cuz it's not gonna do ****. You don't make power up to there anyways. </TD></TR></TABLE>

He's right. Go to 7K in your LS in 2nd gear and and you will feel the power taper off <U>significantly</U> after 6400-6500 rpm.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by marsvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What if I put a gsr crank make a difference yeah I really don't want to go ls/vtec unless its a lot cheaper then trying to get higher rpms on a ls</TD></TR></TABLE>

The crank isnt the limiting factor in revving on an LS block, its the rods. why wouldnt you just use ARP rod bolts, shotpeen the LS rods, and balance the LS crank? In most cases thats good for close to 10K rpm and a hell of a lot cheaper than getting anything from a GSR rotating assembly and swapping it into your block. But, you would still be running 9.2:1 compression PR4's and your cams are still low lift and low duration. Theres a reason why VTEC engines dont redline until 8200 or higher. High lift cam lobes at high rpm translate into continued power band. Where the LS motor tapers off, VTEC engines are going to the 3rd cam lobe and start screaming. Your motor does not. Cmon man you can be asking better and more beneficial questions than this. If you are obsessed with high revs and dont really care about stupid levels of power, just buy a B16. You can get them for about $1000 from reputable dealers. 8200 RPM all day long


Modified by DAmnquickDA at 2:37 PM 6/29/2007

 

what RPM's are safe for a B20B from japan with p75 head?
9.6-1 compression 40,000 miles on motor

 

B20B's compression is 8.8:1. The B20Z is 9.6:1. Redline is 6200 and 6700 in that order (B,Z). I wouldnt take it much past that, redline is there for a reason.

 

My sons built LS with crower 404's makes power up to 7850. You may want to
consider a rebuild and then getting the increases your looking for. Good lcukl!

 

So what engine would be better to get a

A B20B DOHC Engine only Acura Integra 97-00 (tigerjapanese.com for $490)
would it be a straight bolt on a 91 integra ls and what tranny?

Or A B18B Engine only for Acura Integra 94-Up for $690 and seprately buy a b16 tranny not sure what tranny if lsd or hydraulic or cable

 

I wouldnt do either. the gain from a B18B isnt worth the extra work of doing an engine swap- about 10hp. plus they are not the same obd which means a little extra wiring work, and the mounts are slightly different. i would either get a low milage B18A and turbo it or get a B18C (thats what im doing). B20s in a 91 arent a straight bolt in (again, different obd generation), but they arent too difficult. My take is that if you're going to go through the whole hassle of tearing a motor out and putting a new one in, you might as well make it worth your while. A obd1 B18C with a cable S1 (b16 tranny) would be killer (again, what im doing plus 55 shot of nitrous) without too much extra work. What is you budget? What is your goal? If you only want stock power plus a little extra, just get a B18A with bolt ons and a B16 tranny or 92-93 GSR tranny. If you want to make it worth your time, go B18C. Whatever you do, get a cable tranny that was originally attached to a VTEC motor. You will be rewarded.

Tranny specs: http://www.knology.net/~jedikl...s.htm