Just wanted to let you guys in on the bad news I found out today. The piston rings on my recently purchased car are bad. The car was smoking real bad in the very upper RPM range, so that mixed with the fact I know that it burns oil led me to have it checked out. Cylinder number 2 and 3 were off by 10 and 25. I am going to have the rings and other misc. parts replaced in a little over a week. I was really bummed out about it, but oh well I guess. Still happy to have a Type R in such good shape. Just got it detailed today too before I took it in to my friends shop. I will take pics and make a thread for you guys to view tomorrow.

 

10-25psi variation isn't THAT bad... But good to see you're doing it right, and playing it safe.

 

Yeah, I want the car to run properly. It loses oil now just because of the blow by.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THE ONE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, I want the car to run properly. It loses oil now just because of the blow by.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, the problems could be worse, glad to see you're taking care of it.

 

Yeah, I know they were fried because the last owner before Joe tracked it quite a bit which is fine. Thats what the car was built for and I want to take it to the track myself. Just sucks I have to spend more money to fix it.

 

You get a quote yet?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iheartspugen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yah the quote is hes gay</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're "gay" for posting that... GTFO?

 

Yeah I have a quote. One of my best friends owns and runs a shop here locally so I am of course having him do it. Will be about 500 dollars for everything.

 

Actually, the previous owner to me never took it on track at all, and he made me promise him that if I ever took it to a track day, I would have to let him drive the car at least once on track, so that he could experience it, lol. The car was only driven on the street, and although he occasionally drove it hard, he always took really good care of the car, and only used Mobil 1 every 3k (or less miles), oem honda oil filters, and only Mugen accessories, he was an ITR nut. In the short time I owned it, I probably added a quart of oil, but then again, it rarely ever saw VTEC in my possession.

It's sad to see that you are already having to do repairs on the car, I probably would have left it be, and just added oil as necessary.

On a side note, I bet that car looks a LOT better washed/waxed/detailed. I never had the time to do much more than a 5 minute wash on it.

 

$500 seems like a pretty good deal, good stuff...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by locash &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually, the previous owner to me never took it on track at all, and he made me promise him that if I ever took it to a track day, I would have to let him drive the car at least once on track, so that he could experience it, lol. The car was only driven on the street, and although he occasionally drove it hard, he always took really good care of the car, and only used Mobil 1 every 3k (or less miles), oem honda oil filters, and only Mugen accessories, he was an ITR nut. In the short time I owned it, I probably added a quart of oil, but then again, it rarely ever saw VTEC in my possession.

It's sad to see that you are already having to do repairs on the car, I probably would have left it be, and just added oil as necessary.

On a side note, I bet that car looks a LOT better washed/waxed/detailed. I never had the time to do much more than a 5 minute wash on it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Why'd you get rid of that R you had so quickly?

 

I never had any intention of keeping it, my buddy offered it to me really cheap so he could pay off his new FJ Cruiser. At the time, it had no a/c installed, a lot of Mugen parts, and the stock parts were in boxes. I needed something to drive while working on my normal daily driver, so I bought it, put it back to stock, put the a/c back in it, and drove it to and from work. After my other daily driver was back in service, I no longer wanted to worry about owning a Type-R, I couldnt take it anywhere without worrying about it being stolen. So, up for sale it went. In the end, I made a couple bucks for my trouble, and can continue looking for an S2000.

Oh, I also already own two other white Integras, and they were jealous that I was ignoring them.

 

Sounds exactly like my situation...

I've got $2k to play with, including tuning and Hondata S100.

Mine will break down something like this...

~$400-500 for S100 + tuning
$500 for machine work (bore, and clearance EVERYTHING, press old rods off, new rods on)
New JDM ITR or CTR pistons (not sure which yet)
Depending on funds left over, I might stroke it but who knows...

Glad to hear though that your doing it the right way!!!

 

i have to replace my rings and was considering replacing all gaskets in the motor and a mild head package..........but i ain't got no money

 

i think mines are shot too.. my car has been smoking ever since my rebuild. well not really but it was smoking even before the rebuild..

my car on highway burns like 1-2L in a day for long trips doing 5000 rpm + all day long

 

It does look much better washed up and such. I'm just going off what my buddy is advising me to do. He also said I can drive it however I want to the way it sits. I will just need to keep adding oil as needed.

 

Yeah sounds like we are in the same boat. I am going to leave the car stock internally and just add bolt ons to it. I was already going to line up the first mods. Password JDM intake, a Mugen exhaust from Joe, and probably a JDM ITR header. But now nothing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THE ONE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah sounds like we are in the same boat. I am going to leave the car stock internally and just add bolt ons to it. I was already going to line up the first mods. Password JDM intake, a Mugen exhaust from Joe, and probably a JDM ITR header. But now nothing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds close to mine... for now...

Mugen JDM length exhaust and JDM ITR header. LOL I'll be selling that setup soon though, looking at an SMSP header for the DD but I have other things I have to do first.

Just take your time, spend the extra $$$ and do it right. FWIW, I just threw a code for the O2 sensor due to to much oil being burnt off. LOL

 

are you sure it's the rings and not the valves?

 

Sorry it was 25 and 38 percent leakage in 2 and 3.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you sure it's the rings and not the valves?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I trust my friend after doing a leakdown compression check. He was a Master Honda Tech before he opened his business 5 years ago.

 

I had the same problem a couple months back. After about $2500 (parts included), my engine is back in with .25 overbore piston and running like a champ..Feels like a brand new engine...Just waiting to break her in then it's V-Tekkkkkk time baby! All Thanks to Mr. Don F!

 

I am going to keep the internals stock. I am thinking about doing a Mugen headgasket though. How much power will that really add and how safe is it vs. stock?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THE ONE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am going to keep the internals stock. I am thinking about doing a Mugen headgasket though. How much power will that really add and how safe is it vs. stock?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If in fact it turns out to be rings, have the cylinders checked. Make sure you can go back with stock bore and such. If not, you'll regret it in about 10k miles when it starts buring oil again. IIRC, my machinist here advises anything over 5 thousands and it needs to be bored up to the next level. You can go with 25 over or 50 over. You can get stock pistons in 25 over, however you'll have to go aftermarket for the 50's. FWIW, 50 is as far as I'd push it on stock cylinders before sleeving.

Trust, I'm in the same boat... LOL

For the same price of USDM ITR pistons, go with JDM ITR pistons with the Mugen HG. You'll be fine on 93 octane gas, just make sure you get it tuned.

On my PY, I have stock internals and a Mugen HG, love it!!! No problems at all. I've heard from several you won't have any piston to valve contact until the head is milled 50 thousands with the Mugen HG, but then that's stock pistons.

There are so many variables when building the internals given an NA build. First, determine your goals. 180 WHP, 190? 200?

Personally, I'm looking for 200+ so I'm going with CTR pistons and Mugen HG.

HTH

 

I'm just not too concerned with making a lot of power right now. A small increase would be nice while everything is already pulled apart which is why I was curious. Just want to know how much power just the headgasket would add for now, and we only have 91 octane available here in AZ.

 

I share your ideas. I have to do a rebuild soon too, my #4 is at 180 while #1, 2 & 3 are at 220 -/+ a few psi.
If I could do something for a few extra ponies while its apart I will consider it.
I already have a power FC.