Well here's the problem, The motor is a MILD Built LS/Vtec and it's burning about 2 quarts a wk, if i drive HARD. Sometimes when i leave off first gear [just NORMAL driving] I notice a cloud of smoke comming out the tail pipe. When im at wot i notice smoke coming out of my tail pipe, UNTIL i let off the GAS. I did a compression test and i got 225 210 200 200 on a dry test and on a wet test i got 235 240 240 250. The way i did the compression test was i disconnected the ECU and put full throttle and let it crank for 5x on each cyl. Im thinking its the rings, i dont have too re-hone the block scince i just got it BUILT do i? I hope someone could get HELP ME on what to FIX.






Modified by SiR Inspired ED7 at 5:53 PM 6/25/2007

 

HELP...

 

sounds like a ring problem. vacuum under decel and then a cloud afterwards. maybe the rings are damaged or were poorly seated in.

 

did you intall a pcv valve?? had a friend do the same thing. if installed do a leakdown remove the oil cap and listen.

 

Do a leak down, sounds like the rings didn't seat propery. Check your plugs, what color are they? If they have a fair ammount of oil deposits its probably going to give you a clue to where your problem lies

 

My spark plugs have a lil bit of white on the tip.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiR Inspired ED7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My spark plugs have a lil bit of white on the tip. </TD></TR></TABLE>

White = lean depending on the condition of the plug. "a little" doesn't really describe much, so I wouldn't worry about that. The raise from 200 to 250 on the #4 would concern me a lot however. Even the rise on #3 is pretty significant. From what you have described, your rings are done. When you change the rings, you don't always have to rehone the cylinder walls, no... Its going to depend on what they look like when you get it apart.

 

BUMP

 

oil control rings

 

I would get it rehoned. If the rings didn't seat its going to affect your cylinder walls also. I had one cylinder low and when tore it down that cylinder was smooth as glass. Do it right the first time. No sense to buy ring/head gasket just to put it back together and find out your cylinders did need to be surface honed and now you have to buy another set of rings/headgasket.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would get it rehoned. If the rings didn't seat its going to affect your cylinder walls also. I had one cylinder low and when tore it down that cylinder was smooth as glass. Do it right the first time. No sense to buy ring/head gasket just to put it back together and find out your cylinders did need to be surface honed and now you have to buy another set of rings/headgasket.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, like I said.. its not always completely needed to rehone when replacing rings. I had a bad tune done once that washed my rings pretty bad. Leakdown was 20%+. I replaced only the rings, left the walls alone and had excellent results. Within the first few miles leakdown was sitting at ~5%... Its something you will need to evaluate on teardown.

 

thanx for the help everybody, the lsv's is going OUT to get the rings done and the b16 is going to go IN... for now its going to take a 6PAC of COLD SODA to get this job DONE with this HEAT or maybe MORE?!!

 

12 pack of cold beer more like it!

 

Id LOVE to drink the BEER, BUT if i had the BEER in my SYSTEM... im not going to be able to DRIVE the CAR when i FINISH it up

 

Are the cylinders round? Within .0005?

 

I dont know, I took it to the shop to get the whole block pretty much setup and assembled.

 

I took the civic to my friends shop, and I got 250 all across and I he did a leak down test. He said the reason it's burnning oil is because the valve stem seals are out. Im thinking of doing a mile port job but im not quiet sure since the car is daily driven, What do you guys think?

 

PULL THE HEADER, LOOK AT THE TOP OF THE EXHAUST PORTS AN SEE IF THERE IS OIL ALL OVER THE GUIDES, IF THERE IS, THEN CHANGE THE VALVE STEM SEALS.

But im telling you, its 99% RINGS, get OEM rings

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecKiDD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

PULL THE HEADER, LOOK AT THE TOP OF THE EXHAUST PORTS AN SEE IF THERE IS OIL ALL OVER THE GUIDES, IF THERE IS, THEN CHANGE THE VALVE STEM SEALS.

But im telling you, its 99% RINGS, get OEM rings

</TD></TR></TABLE>

X2 agreed.

 

sorry to thread steal, but i have a similar problem too, but i do the most smoking in between shifts.

 

I almost wish sometimes that compression tests were not used.
Compression will basically tell you nothing, other than the fact that you have a major problem. Leakdown tests are really the only option if your going to do a compression test, they tell you more than a compression test ever will.

Second, Compression tests or Leakdown tests tell you nothing about burning oil. You will only test the top two rings and the valve seating in the head when you do either of those. Honda engines have problems with oil control rings getting sticky and becoming less effective. This can be caused by lots of things, like debris or over fueling in the cylinder among others.

Likely to be rings or poor machining as Don said.

-s

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sander &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I almost wish sometimes that compression tests were not used.
Compression will basically tell you nothing, other than the fact that you have a major problem. Leakdown tests are really the only option if your going to do a compression test, they tell you more than a compression test ever will.

Second, Compression tests or Leakdown tests tell you nothing about burning oil. You will only test the top two rings and the valve seating in the head when you do either of those. Honda engines have problems with oil control rings getting sticky and becoming less effective. This can be caused by lots of things, like debris or over fueling in the cylinder among others.

Likely to be rings or poor machining as Don said.

-s</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecKiDD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

PULL THE HEADER, LOOK AT THE TOP OF THE EXHAUST PORTS AN SEE IF THERE IS OIL ALL OVER THE GUIDES, IF THERE IS, THEN CHANGE THE VALVE STEM SEALS.

But im telling you, its 99% RINGS, get OEM rings

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanx for the info Guys, Im gonna pull out the headers and take a look at the ports.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiR Inspired ED7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont know, I took it to the shop to get the whole block pretty much setup and assembled.</TD></TR></TABLE>

is this some "domestic" shop or do they know what they're doing with a honda motor?

what exactly was done? how many miles were on the block before you took it in. sounds like you didn't do your homework. let us know how everything goes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dinko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

is this some "domestic" shop or do they know what they're doing with a honda motor?

what exactly was done? how many miles were on the block before you took it in. sounds like you didn't do your homework. let us know how everything goes. </TD></TR></TABLE>


All the work was done at millenium motor sports, In temecula ca. They ARE specialized in HONDA/ACURA. A lot of people here on HONDA-TECH recommended me to that shop, HONDA-TECH also advertises "MELLENIUM MOTOR SPORTS". Everything was replaced on the motor besides the valve stem seals but only because the guy mentioned that they were still good and that there was no need to replace. The block had apprx. 80k miles.