Last night I was driving my EG hatch with a B16 in it... No problem at getting on it hitting vtec with no problem no sputter no mis fire no nothing.

Parked the car. Started the car back up. It was sputtering like it missing not running off all cylinders. Floored it and it just bogged out. Parked it again. Let it run for a little. Started pulling out spark plug wires all was getting spark. Did not stall when i pulled any out. Started to idle fine then. Pulled out and it stalled.

Tried to start it back up and no luck. Pulled a spark plug out and put it to a ground tried to turn over and no spark at all.

Coilpack? maybe

changed the ignitor in the distributor and no luck. Igniton fuse is good. ECU fuse is good.

Anyone have any solutions? Tried to take off the rotor to get to the coil pack and the screw for the rotor is seized and will not move.

 

water in spark plug tunnel??




Modified by Ep1dem1c at 9:10 PM 6/24/2007

 

If you do not have any spark at all, check the following things:

Take a multimeter set to volts DC and measure voltage between the BLK/YEL wire on the distributor and body ground with the key in the ON (II) position, if you do not have 12V or battery voltage at that wire, you may have a blown fuse, or a break in the wire. Check your wiring and fuses if this is the case.

If you have 12V at that wire, inspect the coil by taking a multimeter and set it to Ohms. Disconnect the two coil wires under the cap labeled + and - and take a Ohm reading there, it should be less than 5Ohms. Then check the secondary windings by putting one lead on the pole that sticks out into the distributor cap (has a spring on it) and the other lead on the + and - individually. Reading is typically 16K Ohms, if it is way less, or infinite, the coil is shorted/broken open, and will require replacement.

Last thing to check is the Crank sensor inside the distributor. disconnect the distributor connector and take an ohm reading with one lead on the BLU/GRN and the other on the BLU/YEL wire. There should be 350-700 Ohms of resistance. If that checks out, check it at the ECU. Plug that connector back in, and perform the same test on ECU terminals B15 and B16 (same wire colors) Make sure resistance is within specs. If one or both of these tests fail, the distributor guts will need to be replaced (or another dizzy purchased.)

Let me know how this all goes. Check your ECU codes first, if any, to help pinpoint the problem.

 

ok thanks alot man i am going to check that stuff out tomorrow

I'm not throwing a CEL.

Since there was water down in the spark plug tunnel that probably shorted out my coil. I am going to replace that and go from there tomorrow with new plugs and plug wires.

 

I have a no spark prob. can u help?

 

B16a has a slight miss when up the temp,
It's fine cold.. Swapped a dizzy with a mate and it's perfect, my own dizzy has a good(I think) coil reading 15.5 ohms, if the icm was gone it wouldn't start at all.. Am I right in saying that..? Don't wanna go buy a new dizzy, as they are hard got and expensive, the spark is very weak in mine also.. What could this be

Tia

 

icm can rise from the grave.
heat and lack of fresh thermal paste kills it eventually.
always have a spare coil and icm!!!