I have a 92 Honda accord Automatic. I am getting error code 7 (Throttle angle or position sensor).

I swapped out the Throttle Body, seemed to be easier than dremeling the "rivet" looking screws on the sensor. I'm still getting the error.

Simptums: Drives normal but more and more often the D4 light starts blinking and I loose power and bog down after 1st gear. Manual shifting doesnt really help, but restarting resets something and its good for a while tell the light starts blinking again. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

 

If the D4 is blinking, that is related to the transmission. They are different trouble codes than the general engine trouble code. So, the TPS may not have been bad.

The Transmission Control Module (TCM) usually goes bad on that generation Accords. The TCM is located under the passenger side carpet. Usually a resistor gets burnt/blown and a capacitor or two inside the TCM. Sometimes a reset fixes it temporarily.

 

Do you happen to know the resistance of those resistors? I'm sure if they are blown than I wont be able to read the reisistance. Also, this problem seems to be interemittent, if a resistor is blown than wouldn't the problem be consistant and stay blinking the whole time?

Thanks for the advise, I'm going to try the reset today and try to swap resistors this weekend!

 

The resistors have different values, depending on which one is blown. There is no posted schematics for the TCM's printed circuit board (PCB).

Usually, the resistor gets burnt black, so that you can't tell the color bands on the resistors to figure out the value.

But, if you open it up and see, post what number location the resistor is at (e.g., R41, R42, etc.), or if you can still make out some of the color bands. I'll see if I can help after that.

 

I have reinstalled the original Throttle body and the problem persists. How you you find the right tool to get the kick panel off the reach the TCM? Seems like a 8mm long socket. No?

 

Generally, you peel the carpet back, if there is a clip, pry it out.

Here is a link with some info. Go to transmission in the link:

http://techauto.bravehost.com/

 

I pulled the computer (TCM) and everything looks perfect. I swapped out the Throttle control unit back the old one and my ilde is different but still seeing the problem. The Error is still Code 7. Any other suggestions you can think of would really help. I feel like I have tried everything.

Thanks

S

 

Based on the manual, code 7 can be due to the following:

- Disconnected shift control solenoid valve A connector
- Short or open in shift control solenoid A wire
- faulty shift control solenoid valve A

Symptoms - Fails to shift (between 1st - 4th, 2nd - 4th, or 2nd -3rd gears only)
Fails to shift (stuck in 4th gear)

You can also try cleaning the solenoid valve, as shown in the link I posted above.

Edited for correctness.


Modified by tech8 at 9:15 PM 7/4/2007

 

Okay cool. I also just want to be clear about my symptoms just in case there is something else I can do in the mean time.

Car runs great tell the D4 light starts blinking then I loose all my power after car shifts out of 1st gear. I dont have problems shifting, it just feels like the throttle air control shuts off and its starts dumping fuel into the engine. (Thats what it feels like anyway, I'm not sure if that is what is actually happening). I can turn the car off and back on and it goes away for a while. I have started to notice a pattern wheather the car is warmed up or not. At about 4-5 miles on the freeway the drive light starts blinking. Other times it problem seems very speratic. Is there any other advice you can give me that may trigger a false alarm of sorts or maybe something that relates more to power and not shifting?

Thank you so much for your help and fast responces!

S

 

The loss of power you are feeling, after the D4 light starts blinking, may be the TCM putting the car into safety (limp) mode. It can be the solenoids, TCM (even though you don't see any burnt/blown resistors or capacitors), or an outside chance of a problem with the PGM - FI (Program Fuel Injection) system.

That link I posted above is more comprehensive regarding these problems, than even most manuals.

 

Okay, I was going to pull both the shift control solenoid valve A and the shift control solenoid B. I started thinking about what a dirty job it was so I took my car to the wash and power washed all the dirt off the solenoids, drove it home, got lazy and was going to remove them the next day. Drove to work and no problem??? so I tried to get the problem to happen again. Nothing.

Long story short.

FIX AND RESULT: Take your car to the wash, put 2 dollars in the machine and clean the solenoids with the pressure washer (water only) and your good to go! Its been a week+ sense I have seen this problem! It use to happen every time I started my car.

Thanks for all your help! I'd use this as a suggestion in the future.

Sam

 

TECH8, Hi, I just found this post. I've got a similar problem to the one that is being discussed. I've got the same symptoms but with a blinking "S" light, code 8. I've checked to TCM and those specific caps and resistors, no discoloration. It actually still looks new but I do realize that this could still be an issue. The car in question is a 1990 Accord EX, AT 118k miles. I'm not 100% sure of the transmission's service history prior to my getting it, but I've had the car for the last 11k miles, I did a trans drain/refill 11k ago. I'm wondering what the code 8 is and thought I'd try you since you were giving good technical advice. I appreciate any help you can give. If there's any other info needed, just ask. Thanks, Rod


Modified by ClmnZ at 6:31 AM 7/5/2007

 

Code 8 is similar to Code 7 (whereas Code 7 may be related to Solenoid A), Code 8 may be related to Solenoid B.

Code 8 can be due to the following:
- Disconnected shift control solenoid valve B connector
- Short or open in shift control solenoid B wire
- faulty shift control solenoid valve B

Check the connectors, may possibly have to clean the solenoids. Many of the things I stated in my earlier posts to this thread may also apply.

http://techauto.bravehost.com/

 

Pressure wash the Solenoids. Seriously. I want to know if that works.

 

Mine were clean already. I've done several things to test it, the solenoids test fine, both by operation and resistance test using DVM. I've installed a small light on each signal to each solenoid. The B solenoid wasn't getting a signal. I've checked the wires from the connector on the TCM all the way to the solenoid, it shows no opens or shorts, and reads at 17.6Ω. I can get the car to error out without even starting the engine. I turn the key on, and shift the car to D4, I would say that is not an issue with the mechanics of the transmission itself. If the car does start without an error, the car shifts/works perfect. I have done 2 fluid changes (3qts each time) just as a precaution but no change and the fluid didn't look bad either. I've tried on 2 more attempts at disconnecting the connecter at the TCM and reading the solenoid when I have the flashing light, but things still read good from the connector through the solenoid. When I plug the connector back in, it still shows a flashing D4.

So I am looking for a replacement TCM. Any suggestions for where? Thanks for posting replies. Rod