This is another thing I forgot to mention in my other thread. So I thought my idle problem went away, well it didn't! My car will bounce bewteen 1000 and 1500 RPM's. So I popped my hood and made sure my EGR and TPS sensor plugs were tight and they were. So I unplug my PCV Valve and the bouncing stops. I figured the bouncing would stop after a couple of days because I cleaned my IAC, EGR and PCV Valves with Seafoam. Maybe I messed up my PCV valve by cleaning with Seafoam?

 

just replace the PCV valve its only like 8 bucks and cleaning it really doesn't help it at all it.

Have you check your FVIV? after I did my coolant bypass I had the idel bounce between 1000 1500 if I drove the car for a while did the FVIV bypass hasn't come back since and that was 3-4 months ago.

 

No I have not checked my FITV yet.


Modified by HybridBB6 at 11:30 PM 6/21/2007

 

WHAT IS FVIV ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tank INC. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WHAT IS FVIV ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's FITV, or Fast Idle Thermo Valve. It's a valve on the bottom of the throttle body that makes the engine idle higher when it's cold. It has thermo-wax inside that brings the idle to normal when the temp gets higher.

 

I just did a manifold swap and no longer have a port for the line from the FITV so its blocked off at the moment and i am having bouncing idle as well.
How did you do abotu the coolant bypass? itr motor if it matters.

 

you just loop the lines that used to run to the FITV....you can go directly from thermo to IACV to thermo and just cap the FITV lines coming off the FITV (the line that is part of it). I have seen ppl just loop the whole thing and not run it to the IACV but im not sure exactly if that would run right at idle especially when cold.

The PCV does not work under idle under high vacuum it closes. However it could be stuck one way or another giving a rich mixture. Thats the only reason i could think of a pcv may cause a problem at idle. Also EGR should also have nothing to do with idle it only operates at part throttle with the engine warm.

 

Bouncing idle means AIR LEAK or vacuum leak. use a spray bottle with water and spray problematic areas like intake manifold gasket, and check to make sure you have no leaks anywhere is throughout your intake. When you spray water it will suck it in and make a funny noise.

 

[QUOTE=lude98SH]you just loop the lines that used to run to the FITV....you can go directly from thermo to IACV to thermo and just cap the FITV lines coming off the FITV (the line that is part of it). I have seen ppl just loop the whole thing and not run it to the IACV but im not sure exactly if that would run right at idle especially when cold.

I have the line coming from the FITV blocked off

 

yes

 

So wich lines am i suppose to be looping?