I had to replace a bent clutch line, the one that connects to the clutch slave cylinder. Although it was still working, the piece was damaged so I went ahead and replaced it.

So I bought a new oem one from Honda. I bolted the piece on, went to bleed my clutch, and no fluid is coming out of the slave cylinder I cannot visually see any fluid leak at the 2 end connections of the clutch pipe. I kept pushing and pulling the cluth pedal, and no result. I must have unbolted and rebolted the clutch line 20 times, repeated the bleeding process to no avail and finally gave up.

Is it possibly an air leak that's causing it not to hold pressure?

My car now does not start, and it's been sitting there for the past week. This is so frustrating. Any ideas what this could be?




Modified by Draggin99Si at 6:31 AM 6/21/2007

 

my thoughts would be to keep doing it, the whole "new" line is filled with air, its going to take a while to fill it

 

I already pumped the clutch at least 50 times each time non-stop, and still no fluid is coming out. It does NOT require that many pumps. If everything was working correct, I would see fluid seeping out after about 5-10 pumps max.

I spent about 10 hours already on this unbolting and rebolting the clutch line. There is a serious problem somewhere. Anyone else have any clue what's the problem? This is driving me nuts.

I'm suspecting an air leak. What else can it be? Anyone experienced something like this before?

 

Out of anger, I bent and destroyed my new pipe.

I'm now curious if the rubber clutch hose that connects to the clutch pipe is at fault or even the slave cylinder itself. I ordered a new oem hose, pipe, and slave cylinder, but am totally clueless what the problem could be.

 

Well everything worked before you took it apart; it should work now....

You didn't mention it, but after you unbolted your original clutch line, did you refill your clutch master cylinder reservoir? You probably leaked most of your original fluid out when you took off the old line.

If you completely exposed the CMC (clutch master cylinder) you may want to take it off and bleed it seperately. Some people call this bench-bleeding. While usually reserved for a new part that hasn't seen fluid before, I've seen old units benefit from a bench-bleed after someone has let all the fluid out.

Also keep in mind that the reservoir is only good for a FEW pumps when you're bleeding it. The thing is tiny. It does NOT hold very much fluid. So you need to top it off every couple of pumps BEFORE the level drops to the down-line hose, or all you're doing is introducing air to the system with each and every pump.

Think about it man, everything worked before you took it apart...it should all work now. I think you are right that you have an air leak. I think you have a massive air leak at your CMC where you have introduced a ton of air into the system. That's just my guess.

Do you have any pedal pressure whatsoever?

 

you need to bleed the system a little different. fill the reservoir. open the bleeder push the pedal 2 the floor. close the bleeder pull the pedal up off the floor do not pump it, top off fluid. open bleeder push clutch to floor close bleeder. pull pedal up top off fluid and repeat until pressure returns. Also make sure you reinstall the reservoir cap before push the clutch pedal. The one man method I use a heavy weight on the clutch pedal to push it down when you crack the bleeder open.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instructor74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need to bleed the system a little different. fill the reservoir. open the bleeder push the pedal 2 the floor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What other way is there to bleed a system aside from the method you've listed?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What other way is there to bleed a system aside from the method you've listed? </TD></TR></TABLE>
read his second post it sounds like he was trying to build pressure by pumping the pedal over and over like bleeding a brake system
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Draggin99Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I already pumped the clutch at least 50 times each time non-stop, and still no fluid is coming out. It does NOT require that many pumps. If everything was working correct, I would see fluid seeping out after about 5-10 pumps max.

I spent about 10 hours already on this unbolting and rebolting the clutch line. There is a serious problem somewhere. Anyone else have any clue what's the problem? This is driving me nuts.

I'm suspecting an air leak. What else can it be? Anyone experienced something like this before?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instructor74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need to bleed the system a little different. fill the reservoir. open the bleeder push the pedal 2 the floor. close the bleeder pull the pedal up off the floor do not pump it, top off fluid. open bleeder push clutch to floor close bleeder. pull pedal up top off fluid and repeat until pressure returns. Also make sure you reinstall the reservoir cap before push the clutch pedal. The one man method I use a heavy weight on the clutch pedal to push it down when you crack the bleeder open.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I know how to bleed the clutch. I've done it numerous times in the past. I'm using the SpeedBleeder. It lets fluid out but does not let air in. I just use my feet to slowly push the pedal to the floor and slowly pull it back up.

Each time I unbolted the clutch pipe, almost all the fluid spilled out so I did top off the reservoir each time I proceeded to bleed. I am doing everything correctly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well everything worked before you took it apart; it should work now....

You didn't mention it, but after you unbolted your original clutch line, did you refill your clutch master cylinder reservoir? You probably leaked most of your original fluid out when you took off the old line.

Also keep in mind that the reservoir is only good for a FEW pumps when you're bleeding it. The thing is tiny. It does NOT hold very much fluid. So you need to top it off every couple of pumps BEFORE the level drops to the down-line hose, or all you're doing is introducing air to the system with each and every pump.

Think about it man, everything worked before you took it apart...it should all work now. I think you are right that you have an air leak. I think you have a massive air leak at your CMC where you have introduced a ton of air into the system. That's just my guess.

Do you have any pedal pressure whatsoever?</TD></TR></TABLE>


My car was involved in a major front end collision, so there's a chance that there may have been something "wrong" with the slave cylinder even though it was working prior to all this. I forgot to say that I did had to unbolt the slave cylinder to install a dust boot that got torn. Also, I'm running a Fastline Performance ss clutch line. I'm now wondering with the new oem clutch pipe swap that I somehow damaged the connection point on the Fastline clutch line since I did have to use a 19mm wrench to hold it in place. I may have caused an unrepairable small air leak in this piece of chit ss clutch line.


Also, you are correct in that each time the clutch line was unbolted, most of the fluid was lost. Therefore, I had to top it off each time.

The reservoir is good for about 7 pumps before you have to refill it again. But the problem is that the fluid level does NOT drop. It remains at the same level throughout the bleeding. I simply cannot get the fluid to flow.

Another test I did was close my SpeedBleeder completely and push on the clutch pedal. There was still no resistance whatsoever. The pedal just dropped straight to the floor.

My parts won't come in til middle of next week. I wish I can bolt on all the new parts again and fix this damn thing. Here's what I'm planning to do to find out the culprit..........

1. install new clutch pipe, then rebleed. if everything works, then that's my problem. if not go to step 2.

2. install new slave cylinder, then rebleed. if everything works, then that's my problem. if not go to step 3.

3. remove Fastline Performance clutch line, and re-install oem line. if everything works, then that's my problem.

 

open the bleeder an wait until fluid comes out then try bleeding it but keep the cap off

 

What a strange problem. I hope you figure it out bro.

 

No matter how many times you bleed it, it won't fix a broken clutch master/slave cylinder.

 

looks like you're screwed until the middle of next week...