before i get bashed all to hell for asking this... i want to let you in on my background, im a car guy, meaning i enjoy all cars... ive got a lot of buddies with boosted b16's in EG hatches and all but i personally have an 04 GT that i daily drive, and ive never been into the whole fwd/honda thing... but i haven flirted with the idea of a toy...

now, rather than spend what is it 450 dollars now for a set of full race traction bars, could you not just install a set of Delrin LCA bushings to get rid of teh deflection or does more than that flex and move under extreme load?

im planning on buying a 2nd gen CRX and getting a swap from Hmotors and then dragging the **** out of the car... and later on down the road going with some craptastic chinese made SSAC turbo setup just for fun lol.


now, flame away.

*EDIT*
<FONT SIZE="24">I AM N00bZILLA!</FONT>


Modified by RoadconeTuning at 8:17 AM 6/22/2007

 

an 04 GT what? celica? mustang?

traction bar is used to create clearance as often as help with traction... it replaces the factory crossmember and opens up room for 4-1 headers and turbo manifolds/bigger turbos

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IT GUY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">an 04 GT what? celica? mustang?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RoadconeTuning &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive never been into the whole fwd/honda thing... </TD></TR></TABLE>
mustang

but you'd definitely want radius rod bushings as well. i bet all poly, along with the lca bushings, would reduce a lot of the hop and fwd drama.

but like it guy said, the bar is nice for clearance reasons also...

 

yes its a ricestang.... shoulda checked the sig and my avatar lol

when working on a buddies EF hatch, i saw that someone had cut into teh crossmember... i dont know how much stress that piece gets as i havent looked into everything hardcore yet, but that looks like a much more simple way to do it...

torch FTW!

 

i'm feeling dumb today

anyways, alot of people notch the crossmember.. I'm not too into that idea though..

 

Its funny to see how many people get traction bars and leave all the factory bushings.

 

traction bar replaces radius rod bushings

I get what you're saying about the rest though... I'm running all spherical bearings in my rear suspension, except the trailing arm which is poly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RoadconeTuning &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes its a ricestang.... shoulda checked the sig and my avatar lol

when working on a buddies EF hatch, i saw that someone had cut into teh crossmember... i dont know how much stress that piece gets as i havent looked into everything hardcore yet, but that looks like a much more simple way to do it...

torch FTW!</TD></TR></TABLE>

well innovative makes a crossmember with nice clearence, and it uses factory radius rods and poly bushings...

if you're worried about notching it.

 

there are ppl who replace the rubber bushing assembly inside the crossmember with a spherical bearing. i think this the effect youre getting at. theres dramatic improvement in caster control, especially in braking.

delrin wouldnt be a good idea, you need the angular deflection or freedom of movement.

ive replaced mine with polyurethane with little to no improvement.

 

notching can be done to the cross member to make clearence. but it needs reinforcing not just a chunk chopped off. Its a main piece of structure.

The polly bushincs in my front radius arms helped a lot. I have azinas a lsd trans and can launch at 4k if it will ever hook with no wheel hop.
But the best way to go is the traction bar.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG_H2B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its funny to see how many people get traction bars and leave all the factory bushings. </TD></TR></TABLE>

agreed. 9 times outta 10 the stock bushings are in pretty bad shape. adding traction bars to the equation will almost force you to go with poly LCA bushings. its more than worth the time and money...

 

i still have the stock crossmember and i replaced the stock lca bushings with es poly bushings that alone made a killer difference

 

I got an ETD traction bar on they way as we speak and its a real nice piece and has full helm jointed chromoly(sp) radius bars and i cant wait to test it out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 143MYVTECEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got an ETD traction bar on they way as we speak and its a real nice piece and has full helm jointed chromoly(sp) radius bars and i cant wait to test it out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

H E I M joint

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heim_joint

you spelled chromoly right though..

 

check out my clearence and i could launch at 4200 with nitto tires

[IMG][/IMG]

 

Haha sorry H.E.I.M joints thanks for breakin my ***** lol.. What bar is this--^^

 

stupid work firewall, i cant see pics lol

man, i really wish i knew what all you guys were talking about... i need to get me a haynes manual or something so i know what all these parts your talking about are... ive never even heard of a radius bar...

theres a reason were called DUMBestic drivers.

 

a lot of people do not replace their controll arm bushings where the lower arm attatches to the unibody.
But if you watch them on a dyno you would go out and buy polly ones that day. The tire will move back and forth like 2 inches when you get on it with 20 year old factory bushings. unless your car does not make any power.

 

innovative is good but hangs low as hell! i would go with full race ifyou have the money! but i wouldnt chop the crossmember though! i had that done to my 88 crx to make room for itr headers, it bent a little over time

when i replaced it with the innovative, i stood the chopped crossmember on one side, pushed from the top down to the floor and what do you know, with not much force, it snapped in 2!!!!! this also had and iron plate for reinforcment! but i cant picture what would have happend if it snaped while hitting a turn! yet alone massive flexing in the chassie on chopped crossmembers!

 

yeah, thats what im talking about... i dont see how these people dont wreck anytime they touch the gas.... i assumed that just doing LCA bushings would fix it.. and thats why i thought Delrin would be a good choice as you dont want ANY movement other than what the pivot point was designed for.

 

i was replacing tires every month for about 6 months until i actually got the innovative tc! alingment was all over the place! but that was due to worn out lca bushings as well! plus shot ball joints

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RoadconeTuning &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, thats what im talking about... i dont see how these people dont wreck anytime they touch the gas.... i assumed that just doing LCA bushings would fix it.. and thats why i thought Delrin would be a good choice as you dont want ANY movement other than what the pivot point was designed for.</TD></TR></TABLE>

why are you talking about the LCA bushings? im not sure why you are connecting talk about traction bars and LCA.

traction bars replace the front crossmember, which are connected to the front LCA by the radius rod. so traction bars usually replace both the crossmember and the radius rods. the radius rods are bolted to the LCA, but have nothing to do with the LCA bushing. there is a bushing between the crossmember and radius rod, which is replicated with a heim joint.

in cases where the stock crossmember must remain, the bushing alone is replaced with a spherical bearing assembly, as i mentioned earlier.

but i think youre confused with your first post because you seem to think the crossmember has anything to LCA bushing, which it isnt.

 

honestly it was an assumption... im used to a 4-link rear suspension and then a modified mcpherson strut setup in front...

i THINK i understand what this radius rod thing is... its pretty much just a brace for the LCA's and comes off of the front crossmember? right?

andif thats correct then putting in stiffer LCA bushings would limit the need for a new crossmember.... i plan on going poly/delrin/aluminum on anything that i can since its such a cheap upgrade to do and its needed most of the time...

are there any aftermarket tubular suspension pieces that will mount in the factory locations? in the mustang world we have tubular k-members and you usually have to go with tubular a-arms and a coilover setup inorder to make it all work, but you end up with a lighter, stronger, more adjustable setup...

 

maybe this will help all of us! i wish i could have this done to my crx, i hate bushings....when they break i have this artical i want to show on here about this setup for this canyon racing crx! but i cant upload the pics!!!

 

here we go!!!! the artical is kinda big sorry but it will help for all in question about such a setup! enjoy and happy reading