i swapped a jdm b16 obd0 into my 91 crx si. its running on a pw0 ecu. the problem is (and it's been doing this since the swap) is that when you're going down the road at a constant throttle (lower rpm (under 4200)) at a constant speed, the motor starts sputtering and will stay in that state until i 1. give it more gas or 2. let off and then give it throttle again. at high rpm above 4300 on the interstate or at wot it's not acting up.
any suggestions??
p.s i have the hasport sub harness hooked up with no codes thrown

 

Quick fix, and only for better drivability, unplug one of your o2 sensors. I dont remember which one, but try one and if it doesnt work try the other.

 

I have this same problem with the same motor in my 91 integra, but with a PR3 ecu.

WE NEED TO TRY AND FIX THIS! There are, surprisingly, alot of people going through this problem. Most are not even B16's, but are B18's. Therefore, it has to be a common problem with OBD0 systems. I have been convinced that it was the distributor, but I haven't tried it yet.

Like I said, we need to get more people interested in this thread, because alot of people could get helped here, and I MEAN ALOT OF PEOPLE.

Keep the posts coming!

 

Come on, I know there are others with this same problem.

Start replying!

 

same prob on d15b vtec...im gonna try the dizzy today. i have a lifetime warranty on it.

 

i have a obd0 b18ls swap and i had that same problem with it sputtering up to 4,000rpm, and then 1 day when i put a new header and a new universal bocsh o2 sensor on it, it went away and i have no more sputtering


Modified by jdmrex90si at 12:53 PM 6/19/2007


Modified by jdmrex90si at 12:54 PM 6/19/2007


Modified by jdmrex90si at 12:55 PM 6/19/2007

 

someone else told me to change the fuel filter, but i don't think that would be it huh?
i put a new cap and rotor on and new ngk plugs and ngk wires, so i'm stumped.
i'll try to unplug one o2, and see what it does.
thanks

 

I have the exact same set-up and the exact same problem. I'm very interested to hear the solution.

I am not sure what ECU is currently in there. I do have a OBD1 swap ready to go it, just need to figure out how I am going to do the exhaust.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by swapped-e &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">someone else told me to change the fuel filter, but i don't think that would be it huh?
i put a new cap and rotor on and new ngk plugs and ngk wires, so i'm stumped.
i'll try to unplug one o2, and see what it does.
thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well in my application the TD22 dizzy was brand new when I started.

Unplugging an o2 sensor would probably result in an engine code being thrown don't you think?

 

i Have the same prob in my hatch with the b16 swap and now i have a idle problem it surges up and up i checked all vac lines even replace the eacv

 

a lot of people have had the problem and its with the O2 sensors. try swapping the two pins for O2 at the ECU and see if it helps

 

I have replaced and done the following:

-replaced cap and rotor (OEM Honda Parts)
-tried another set of plug wires, didn't help
-new fuel filter, didn't help
-flushed injectors with an industry leading fuel system flusher and cleaner, didn't help

I really don't know. However, there have been claims that the O2 sensor(s) are the problem. Then I have heard just as many about the distributor, but STEGS said he had a new distributor from the beginning and still has this problem. It may very well be the O2 sensors.

Let me know!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaPartsHero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a lot of people have had the problem and its with the O2 sensors. try swapping the two pins for O2 at the ECU and see if it helps



</TD></TR></TABLE>

I understand exactly where you're coming from, but this problem occurs on stock integra's without a swap. I've read across your idea many times before since there are alot of people who get the O2 sensor pins going into the ecu mixed up, and when they switch them around to the correct pinouts it works great.

But this problem isn't swap related. It has commonality amoung stock vehicles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaPartsHero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a lot of people have had the problem and its with the O2 sensors. try swapping the two pins for O2 at the ECU and see if it helps



</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the info, but could you please be more specific. That diagram is a good reference, but what exact procedure are you suggesting we do? Remove C8 (2nd 02) and plug into the empty hole in A8?

 

I guess that this is a good excuse for me to go the OBD1 route. LOL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integrawow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess that this is a good excuse for me to go the OBD1 route. LOL</TD></TR></TABLE>

... something is wired wrong or you have a bad o2, worst case could be a faulty ecu.

as per hondata directly, pre obd systems are extremley picky about the o2 sensors being in the correct order, since one reads cylinders 1/3 the other does 2/4

if you want to read about why, heres that article:

http://www.hondata.com/techclosed.html

its very common for EF swapers to incorrectly wire their 02's and its also very common for people to:

-not replace cheap items like o2 sensors and fuel filters when doing a swap

-use really shitty bosch or whatever else knockoff brand o2 sensor

-not properly flushing a coolant system and make sure its bled fully

-not empty a gas tank and go with a higher grade gas from the get go

these might seem silly, but it can all lead to weird idle problems and bogging after a swap.

i can also be electrical, which makes this problem a little harder to trace, but do the easy **** first before you start worrying about the distributor...

 

the only problem i see with switching the o2 sensors is the plugs are made specific. i have the hasport sub wiring harness and it has a rectangular plug and one o2 sensor has a rectangular plug and the other one has a round plug that hooks up to the old connector for the other o2 sensor. i don't think hasport would have over-looked that don't ya think??
just a thought
i'm still clueless
a guy at work thought it sounded like a distributor, but i read that someone else had a new distributor on it before the swap and it still did it.

 

I've been driving my car, swapped, for just over 10k miles, and it runs smooth except for the, as described, hesitation at roughly 3,000 rpms while driving at a steady speed and then trying to ease into the throttle to speed up a few mph's.

That's what we're trying to fix.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integrawow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've been driving my car, swapped, for just over 10k miles, and it runs smooth except for the, as described, hesitation at roughly 3,000 rpms while driving at a steady speed and then trying to ease into the throttle to speed up a few mph's.

That's what we're trying to fix.</TD></TR></TABLE>

has it done it since you installed the engine?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublethink &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

has it done it since you installed the engine?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You see, this problem also occurs with stock integra's with the original B18. Having a swap has nothing to do with it from what I can tell.

I hope this helps!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integrawow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You see, this problem also occurs with stock integra's with the original B18. Having a swap has nothing to do with it from what I can tell.

I hope this helps!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Great, so the engine is defective then, clearly.

Ill get Honda R&D on the phone right away.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublethink &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Great, so the engine is defective then, clearly.

Ill get Honda R&D on the phone right away.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't go off on tangents, nor try to show your ***. Look, it's just something simple, more than likely everyone needs to replace their O2 sensors, not swap the pinouts like you're saying. If the pinouts were wrong, then the car would have an obvious stumble at ALL times, not just at 3,000 rpm while cruising.

My motor runs great and I couldn't ask for more, but I, just like everyone else, wants to get rid of this little issue. That's all! Nothing super wrong is going on here.

Take it easy man!

 

Im obd1 on my d15b and a have a reman dizzy. Also a new denso 4 wire 02. I have the same prob, in the morning im gonna go and pick up my warranty replacement and see if it fixes this issue.

 

ok like it was said, it's the o2. i have seen and had the same problem. with bad o2's and finaly i have just unpluged them, and with my car i only got a check eng. light when i would decelerate for a long period. but even if u try this and u get a check eng. light still drive it and see if the problem is gone, if it is u know u have an o2 issue. if it doesnt give me the car...

 

i had the same problem..changed 02 sensor and it ran great. 02 sensor sending out too much fuel into the injectors.
had problem 2 weeks ago