I see that some of you guys have the Odyssey pc680 in your cars. But I'm not sure if the battery is meant to be used for track cars only or can it be used in dd cars. Cars that has beat (radio, amps, etc..) in it. I read some of the post but nobody really says if it were their daily driver. Wonder if this little battery can put out enough juice to handle the rest of the electrical components or should the alternator be able to handle all of it when the engine is running. Do you recommend a second battery for the audio rather than using the pc680 to run everything.

 

That battery will not run any aftermarket amps. Its design to just start the car and run the car. Try to put a sound system on it and it will burn out your alternator. Hell it can barely play a stock headunit for more then 15 min with the car off. Let alone a aftermarket headunit. Its fine for a dd if that all thats in the car. But any ice in the car ad your going to be stuck somewere.

 

got beats...get an Optima not an Oddyssey

 

whats better Optima red or yellow???its in the trunk on my car I was just looking into these so size dont matter but I do have a system....sorry to thread jack.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yz125rider21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats better Optima red or yellow???its in the trunk on my car I was just looking into these so size dont matter but I do have a system....sorry to thread jack.</TD></TR></TABLE>
get a red , the yellow are deep cycle

 

researching and said optima are over rated, is there a good battery out there other than this dry cell....need a dry cell though or sealed so I dont risk it in the back of my crx...thanks

 

depends on what you battery purpose is. yellow is a deep cycle which means it can last longer between charges and the red just has high cranking amps for better starting. if you are worried about running a system on an odyssey, get one bigger than the pc680. odyssey batteries are probably the best batteries ever made.

 

you can run a yellow top up front if thats the only battery that your going to have for a system and do not want to add extra's. would use this if you plan on playing the radio with the car off for long extended times. The red top can only be discharged so many times before it starts to go out. The yellow top will take this abuse over and over.

 

I just like to listen to clean sounding music but if the oddyssey can't put out the juice then i just gonna have to run it with no amps just radio and 4 speakers. Can't just listen to the road and my exhaust gotta have some kind of music. I plan on a turbo in the future so I might need the extra space and I don't want to have a battery in the back cause I always have things back there.

 

you can run a conservative system as long as you dont run it with the car off.

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2

 

I currently have a yellow top in there for about 2 1/2 years right now but it is not holding any load at all no more thats why i was hoping that I can go for something smaller that would put out the same juice.

 

Wow running a 1000 watt amp and some other stuff on that little battery. but wont that put a lot of strain on the alternator?

 

yes it will put strain on the alternator, that is why you upgrade your alternator to one that can handle the load.

 

well for those who have lead you in the wrong direction... yes you can use it but you would be better off with a pc1200. i was once sponsored in car audio by oddessy and a couple of other manufacturers. out off the 3 years i compeeted i ran a total of 25 compititions. twent-four 1st places and one 2nd place that came from my buddy's car i built. it will run afftermarket amps and nearly anything you put on it. hell i ran two 1800 watt amps off of a single pc1200 for a while. maintained at least 12.09 volts at the least. so yeah it will work for all yall Dee Dee Dee's.

 

Even upgrading the alternator is not going to solve the problem. Simple fact. Its not going to work, Just because it plays does not mean it hooked up right. Yea putting in a big alternator will give you more amps from it depending on how high a unit you buy. But you WILL burn it out. Why, because the alternator is suppose to charge the battery and and provide current for a short period of time. Not all day. You will be fine with a aftermarket head unit and that's about it.

The guy in that thread that says he has a 1k amp on it is asking for trouble. Especially when the factory Honda alternator is rated at about 85 amps. give or take 15%. Why 1,000 watts/12.6 volts=79.37 amps. So the car has about 6 amps to power the radio, ignition and lights. So the amp is not going to produce the full wattage as it should. It will eventually fail, motorboat and die, possible blowing the sub with it. And loading up the stock alternator to a point of failure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">got beats...get an Optima not an Oddyssey</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol

 

ill give optima there dues. i ran my car off of a yellow top d31 for about 5 days when my alternator went bad. but i tell you what if anybody wants to question me... go to soundoff.org, eventpromotions.org, maxxsonics.com... team members. or lets see hooker audio, kinetik audio, digital designs, mass destruction, stinger, scoche, h.o. alternators. the list of sponsors i had goes on and on so dont take this as a joke. go to the 3 websites i gave you and look up quincy "EARS" smith. youll see i aint bullshitin. or if you want anybody who competes USACI... call them and ask for rick randell and ask him about Sounds Extreme Team. we dominated region 3 and still do. ive got 3 years of trophies to back up what i say. better yet here are the trophies.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.co...71197

need i say more. oh yeah and a stock honda alternator only charges when you put a load on it. it actually charges 35 amps @ 6500 rpm's. i could go on all day about honda alternators. all you need to do is take a piece of 4 gauge wire put something around a 30 amp glass fuse in it and run it straight to your batterry. see with the factory system you have so many loops to go through before the charge actually reaches the battery and youre tryin to do it through a 8 or 10 gauge wire. once again... youll be fine.

 

I personally like the stinger batteries. Every yellow top I have ever bought for my rsx would die in a day after haveing it charged.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti eater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That battery will not run any aftermarket amps. Its design to just start the car and run the car. Try to put a sound system on it and it will burn out your alternator. Hell it can barely play a stock headunit for more then 15 min with the car off. Let alone a aftermarket headunit. Its fine for a dd if that all thats in the car. But any ice in the car ad your going to be stuck somewere.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I use a pc 680 for my car and it had a 12 sub and two amps. No problems here for almost a year I dont run it with the car off and before i park it I turn the radio off for a little while

 

Quote
"I personally like the stinger batteries. Every yellow top I have ever bought for my rsx would die in a day after haveing it charged. "

stinger, scoche, and i believe there is one more... but they are all made by oddessy actually. i knew richard from stinger pretty good and he filled me in on that little secret

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by obd1_crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ill give optima there dues. i ran my car off of a yellow top d31 for about 5 days when my alternator went bad. but i tell you what if anybody wants to question me... go to soundoff.org, eventpromotions.org, maxxsonics.com... team members. or lets see hooker audio, kinetik audio, digital designs, mass destruction, stinger, scoche, h.o. alternators. the list of sponsors i had goes on and on so dont take this as a joke. go to the 3 websites i gave you and look up quincy "EARS" smith. youll see i aint bullshitin. or if you want anybody who competes USACI... call them and ask for rick randell and ask him about Sounds Extreme Team. we dominated region 3 and still do. ive got 3 years of trophies to back up what i say. better yet here are the trophies.

<A HREF="http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?
fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=48849946&albumID=0&i mageID=2071197" TARGET="_blank">http://viewmorepics.myspace.co...71197</A>

need i say more. oh yeah and a stock honda alternator only charges when you put a load on it. it actually charges 35 amps @ 6500 rpm's. i could go on all day about honda alternators. all you need to do is take a piece of 4 gauge wire put something around a 30 amp glass fuse in it and run it straight to your batterry. see with the factory system you have so many loops to go through before the charge actually reaches the battery and youre tryin to do it through a 8 or 10 gauge wire. once again... youll be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I will be competing with mtx next year. I will be Hopefully in the db drags. It up to them to say what they want to enter in. The honda does not have many hopes to jump threw. It goes right to the fuse block and is fused and it sent right to the battery. The only set back is the shitty stock wire. I agree with you on going straight to the battery thou. But once to go straight ot the battery you still have to send the battery back to the fuse block. The honda fuse block battery post has three power wires. 1 to the starter, 1 to the abs if you have it, and the charge to the alternator. My shop nor any of my employees would ever hook up a sound system to that small battery. A deck and 4 would be all that you get from us. The swapmeet is right down the street.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HT Chaplain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


I use a pc 680 for my car and it had a 12 sub and two amps. No problems here for almost a year I dont run it with the car off and before i park it I turn the radio off for a little while </TD></TR></TABLE>

Like I said just because it plays does not mean its hooked up right. What does your system consists of? You can not beat ohm's law. Lets say the car in fact puts out 35 amps at 6500 rpm. Your system is about 500watts rms. how many amps does it take to run a 500 watt system. lets see, do the math. 500/12.6=39.68 amps. Lets say the car needs 10 amps to run. Ie head lights brake lights ignition system. that put you at 49.68. Humm your charging system can only Handel 35 amps. You have a deficit of 14.35 amps that you don't have. So first your system is not putting out the rms that it should and is heating up, you have dim lights, your driving on a dead battery. Your alternator is being taxed. Sorry there no way around it. Post up what your sound system is. Make and model of the amps. And what kind of car.

 

Rockford P3002 for 12" Sub
B16 with new alternator (no A/C)

 

dont remove the stock charge wire to the factory block... just add the exta 4 gauge. oh and wrx-killer-Sti eater if you runnin for MTX next year tell jay loveless "if he still deals with them" whats up from sounds extreme team for me would ya.

 

4 sure. I met so many people from mtx its crazy, I thought I built some extreeme rides. You should see there cars. I might be buying a astro van next week. I don't think I want to destroy my navi.

 

I have an Odyssey PC 680 in my eg hatch. It's running a MTX 6304 in 3 channel mode. Channels 1 and 2 are running my mids, and channels 3 and 4 are bridged running a single 4 ohm sub.

Been like this for over a year with no issues.

I upgraded the "Big 3" under the hood and have no headlight dimming either.

Some of you guys are funny. Common sense will tell you this battery is going to severly limit your listening time.

(BTW I compete in Street A in dB Drags and run 2 Digital Design Z1's off a Stinger 2150....I know current draw)