Hey sup people i'm getting my car bar'd and i was wondering if i were to bypass the fast idler valve would chp say anything about it? would there be a smog related problem?

 

why would you bypass it anyway?

 

i've read that some people just bypass it because they just dont want to have it, mine has been acting up lately and i've tried about two other fast idler valves and all the same problem (erratic idle), earlier today i tried on my friends usdm b16 obdII throttle body on my car and idle was perfect.

 

his throttle body doesn't have a fast idler valve...and btw i just installed a skunk2 pro intake manifold

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smileycvc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why would you bypass it anyway?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is basically there as a way to get the car up to N.O.T. It is kinda like a choke on a carbuerated bike. Many times it causes more problems than it solves, and therefore many people like to eliminate them. For instance, there was a vacuum leak between my FIT valve and TB, and so I eliminated the FITV. My car still ran fine, but just doesn't warm up as quickly.

Usually what happens is the motor revs erratically, and instead of replacing the FITV, most people just get rid of it since it will most likely cause the same problem at some point in the future.

To the OP, we don't get smogged in MI, so I don't have to worry about it, but if I had to take an educated guess, I don't know why they would care whether or not you had your FITV.

-Shane

-Shane

 

here is what i did.

unplug coolant lines from the FITV and take them off completely (one of them hooks to the IACV)


you will lose some coolant, so go get some.

then undo the 3 10mm bolts holding it on.

clean it off and dry it really well.

take an empty cigarette pack, or go buy some gasket material.

cut it to shape to cover all the holes on the FITV.

put the FITV back on and torque the bolts down.

now run a coolant line from where the first line on the FITV ORIGINATED FROM all the way to the IACV left port.

all done

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nighttrain33 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It is basically there as a way to get the car up to N.O.T. It is kinda like a choke on a carbuerated bike. Many times it causes more problems than it solves, and therefore many people like to eliminate them. For instance, there was a vacuum leak between my FIT valve and TB, and so I eliminated the FITV. My car still ran fine, but just doesn't warm up as quickly.

Usually what happens is the motor revs erratically, and instead of replacing the FITV, most people just get rid of it since it will most likely cause the same problem at some point in the future.

To the OP, we don't get smogged in MI, so I don't have to worry about it, but if I had to take an educated guess, I don't know why they would care whether or not you had your FITV.

-Shane

-Shane</TD></TR></TABLE>

I c Lucky non smogged people! lol thanks for the info

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92ehatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here is what i did.

unplug coolant lines from the FITV and take them off completely (one of them hooks to the IACV)


you will lose some coolant, so go get some.

then undo the 3 10mm bolts holding it on.

clean it off and dry it really well.

take an empty cigarette pack, or go buy some gasket material.

cut it to shape to cover all the holes on the FITV.

put the FITV back on and torque the bolts down.

now run a coolant line from where the first line on the FITV ORIGINATED FROM all the way to the IACV left port.

all done</TD></TR></TABLE>

NICE! thanks a lot !

 

No effect on smog and it's not regulated for the visual inspection either. I've passed 3 times with it bypassed.

Besides the unreliable FITV you also pick up a few miles to the gallon and an unproven amount of hp.

Also bypass your IACV. You don't have to cap the holes on the IACV. Just run a longer hose between the source of the IACV (which is usually tied into the FITV) and the output.

Neither is recommended in freezing climates because your throttle plate can get stuck and then you'll snap the throttle cable.

 

yup thats what i heard thanks man! thats all i needed lol