ok i relocated my battery to the back finally got evrything working fine it has been cranking good for about a week now and this moring got out to get gas and went to crank it back up the starter side on thwe distro block keeps blowing the fuse i am running a 32volt distro block with 40 amp on the wiring harness and 60 amp on the starter side what size am i gonna have to run to keep it from blowing??? and if i do have to step up thne why has it been cranking good all week and juss now decided to take a dump on me??

 

don't put an inline fuse anywhere...just run the battery straight to the starter. and one straight to the fuse box.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89hatcher &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't put an inline fuse anywhere...just run the battery straight to the starter. and one straight to the fuse box.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Every write up I see and everyone I talk to says you need a fuse 6-12" from the battery for safety's sake, unless you want a fire or something.

Do you have contradictory evidence for this?

 

for mines i put in a fuse on my distribution block and my car would not start. then i took out the fuse and just wired it straight to the starter. and if you look at your stock battery wire there is no fuse what so ever on the cable. i just wired it the way the stock battery looked like but longer.

 

I understand, but my physics are correct, resistance = heat = possibility of frying the wire's insulation and starting a fire.

The resistance from the longer distance the electricity has to travel is the issue created from relocating the battery to the trunk.

Hopefully someone else who has done this can chime in and help the OP.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1989574

 

thats why i went with a 1/0 gauge wire. not the one used for amplifiers but the industrial ones used for boats and stuff. they really have a really thick rubber surrounding the copper wire.

 

ok put an 80 amp fuse in there and it cranks fine but we will see how long it works for lol

 

I am having the same problem...

I have 0ga from the battery in the trunk to a 150A fuse, then to the front of the car onto a battery terminal for jumping purposes.

I have 4ga going straight from the (+) battery terminal to the starter, and also to the fusebox.

I also have 4ga going from the fusebox to the alternator.

All power passes through the firewall using 3/8" studs isolated with grommets and delrin washers, and a few layers of heatshrink.

Any advice? I keep blowing the 150A ANL fuse