going home the other night my engine started acting like there was a rev limiter at 3900 rpm adn the check engine light came on. i pulled over and shut the engine off for a minute and the light stayed on but the engine would rev all the way up to redline so i didnt worry about it too much. i decided i was going to take it to have the code scanned but on my way to work the next mornign the light when off.

well last night it happened again. if the light is still on when i get off work i will go to autozone to get the code scanned. any idea what this could be? i remember reading a post similar to this a while back where the guy ended up blowing his engine but i couldnt find it again.

 

your in limp mode. your car is trying to save the motor by limiting revs. try to pull the code ASAP and post up.

Also, are you boosted like your user name implies?

 

im turboing soon. i have most of the pieces put together. im workign out the details with the shop that is going to help me do the instal. i will run the code when i get off work at 430 and let you know what it says

 

i had the same problem and i took my car in for an oil change and after the oil change it went back to normal...at first it started redlining at around 3900 then my vtec was not working properly and after i did the oil change everything was fine...it might sound stupid for doing an oil change but itll work...

 

y0u can feel your vtec? FACTORY FREEEAAKKK

 

i do need an oil change so maybe i'll try that. the light seems to go off after the second time starting the engine after it first comes on. its confusing the hell outta me. my maintenance required light is on too cuz i need an oil change so its worth a try.

 

u must drive an LX haha...

 

actually its an ex

 

dang, i've neglected my motor (d17a2) in hopes to swap a K in there. i've never had any problems with it. crazy.

 

haha. if mine blows up i'll just go all out on it and upgrade my turbo kit and rebuild the motor for max boost!

 

if mine blows up, i'll be happy.

 

i was talking about curiouz g'z motor not your my fault....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fventura03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if mine blows up, i'll be happy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hahaha im in the same boat, hoping mine pops so i can justify spending the rest of the money on my swap haha mine got 109,000km on it now, i pound on it daily and the thing just will not die.

 

low oil, had that problem on my old ek

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PoMoNa_909_eM2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u must drive an LX haha...</TD></TR></TABLE>


are you serious? oh man that made me laugh LOL. I dont know which is funnier, you thinking that i drive a LX or you feeling vtec.

Oh and just for the record, i drive a EX.

 

If you are low on oil it could throw a code because the vtec solenoid isn't being able to build enough pressure to engage vtec. But really, a CEL can be serious, especially if its putting you into limp mode, don't screw around, pull the code.

 

i love the sound of vtec cross-overs

 

i changed the oil yesterday. so far no problems with the CEL. tried resetting the maintenance required light and it didnt work tho

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 03turboem2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i changed the oil yesterday. so far no problems with the CEL. tried resetting the maintenance required light and it didnt work tho</TD></TR></TABLE>

maint required light has nothing to do with anything. it's just a timed-light put in by the dealer. if you can't turn it off, you're doing something wrong. try again.

 

ya thats what i figured. if i cant get it to go off i'll run it down to my girlfriends dad. he owns grease monkey so they'll be able to get it off. im just glad the CEL is off and the engine seems to be running good.

 

Dude, the last time my CEL came on I needed to have something called an electronic load detector replaced or something like that. the whole shbang cost around 500 bucks. the diagnostic cost 130 and freaken part was like 400 something and labor was like 90 something so it was more than 500 bucks!! the dealer will kill you with the prices.

 

hey everyone so this is really stupid but bare with me so i baught a d17a2 head and put it on my vp and it worked fine untill the ecu shorted because of the wireing to my vafc, so i took it in to get it fixed and the guy gets an ex ecu since we have to reflash the keys anyways, it is in and it starts and runs fine, still has the old harness and the vafc, but it has the same problem that you guys are having, i dont know what it is. could it be the vtec oil switch, or something since it is not getting a reading to the ecu, please help i am just stuck with a car that does not run.