my odyssey battery died, so i did a battery relocation to the trunk... I used 2 gauge wiring from the fusebox to my battery, and another 2 gauge wiring for the ground... I put an inline 60amp and 80amp fuse (From a car audio kit) and they work for a few startups, then the fuse keeps blowing

what could this problem be? or can i elminate the fuse all together?

 

Use a larger fuse. The starter will draw more amperage than that. I would not install a battery in the trunk without a fuse right at the battery. What happens if a short occurs in that long run between the battery and the engine bay without a fuse!

 

Although mine isn't completed yet, I have a 150 amp fuse, right before the battery in the trunk, for the very reason stated above.

what I want to know is how you are mounting the battery to the trunk floor? do you just bolt thru? with a bolt/nut/washer combo and then seal around the bolt for corrosion?

 

where can i get a 150 amp fuse?!?! or a 100 amp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkBB4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where can i get a 150 amp fuse?!?! or a 100 amp</TD></TR></TABLE>

Any good car audio place should have one. Or someplace online like Summit should have them...

 

I got a rockford fosgate inline fuse from cardomain.com.

150 amp fuse running from the battery in the trunk to a splitter by the fuse box that has a 150 amp fuse going to the fuse box and a 100 amp fuse going to the starter.

All from cardomain

 

i used 120w fuse with no problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use a larger fuse. The starter will draw more amperage than that. I would not install a battery in the trunk without a fuse right at the battery. What happens if a short occurs in that long run between the battery and the engine bay without a fuse! </TD></TR></TABLE>

how do u ad a fuse? thinking of doing this...

 

oops. i guess this'll be the next thing on my list to do.
i've been lucky nothing has happened so far

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmlude5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i used 120w fuse with no problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You mean 120A, right? 120W on a 12V system would be 10A, and that will surely blow if you try to run the starter off of a 10A fuse.

 

Cut the wire close to the battery. Connect one wire to one side of the fuse. Connect the other wire to the other side of the fuse.

If you guys want some pimpin' wiring, I have a bunch left over from some stuff I was doing a few years ago. 4ga wire (maybe some 2ga too), some fuse housings, fuses, and other stuff.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .BigSexy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do u ad a fuse? thinking of doing this...</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cut the wire close to the battery. Connect one wire to one side of the fuse. Connect the other wire to the other side of the fuse.

If you guys want some pimpin' wiring, I have a bunch left over from some stuff I was doing a few years ago. 4ga wire (maybe some 2ga too), some fuse housings, fuses, and other stuff.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

how much?

to keep the thread on topic, just PM me

 

one of my friends who thinks he knows everything saw that i used 2 gauge speaker wire for my battery relocation and told me i needed to use battery cables.
its worked fine so far.. is it really needed??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You mean 120A, right? 120W on a 12V system would be 10A, and that will surely blow if you try to run the starter off of a 10A fuse. </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol. yeah.

 

what about a breaker ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by esedulerp5tenin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">one of my friends who thinks he knows everything saw that i used 2 gauge speaker wire for my battery relocation and told me i needed to use battery cables.
its worked fine so far.. is it really needed??</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've never heard of a 2 gauge speaker wire?! I think you'll be fine since the "gauge" of a wire just determines how thick it is.

 

just use a circuit breaker. I would actually use 2. A 100amp for the factory fuse box. and a second one probably 100amp as well for the starter cable.

 

yea i just bought a stinger 100W circuit breaker (50$) OUCH!

should work good though i hope


?: IF the circuit breaker blows (over 100W) what could be the cause of that?

 

and don't worry, the wires aren't live (well ground is hooked to ground), the power wire isn't hooked to anything - just run up to my engine bay, with that wire protective crap, so i'm not worried about shorts in the trunk (besides that's what the fuse is for lol).

In any case, I lied before it's a 200 amp - too much? lol, I got it for like 20 buck off ebay a while back, came over from the UK. It is a resettable breaker.

however, (and sorry for the jack) can I just drill straight down from there to mount my battery bracket? besides the muffler will I hit anything else in the way? you guys use nut/bolt combo? any other recommendations appreciated.

 

^^^^

that looks really good

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .BigSexy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^^

that looks really good</TD></TR></TABLE>

what he said

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .BigSexy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^^

that looks really good</TD></TR></TABLE>

hey thanks, haha it's been like that for the last 6 months or so!, got lazy and didn't want to finish the hole drilling haha, also I seem to put other purchases above a optima battery (can't have vapors right?) in the food chain, seeing as my current battery is working fine... ahh one day i'll finish it.

if you go a similar route, just go easy with the drill when you bust thru the trunk liner, it likes to grab the carpet and tear it ugly.

oh and just so it's clear, those power wire's going thru the breaker, DO NOT, go thru the trunk liner, they are just studs, it is simply the two other kitty corner bolts that hold it to the trunk liner (otherwise obviously the power wire could short to the chassis).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Altilude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
however, (and sorry for the jack) can I just drill straight down from there to mount my battery bracket? besides the muffler will I hit anything else in the way? you guys use nut/bolt combo? any other recommendations appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>

there's gonna be a muffler shield between the muffler and trunk metal. i just removed this completely cuz the studs wouldn't allow me to keep it.

studs



underside (the studs now protrude thru the nuts much more now, with big washers in between)

 

I just dropped the shield, drilled through and put my hardware on and put it back up, it fit underneath...

esedp...
are you not using a box, just a tiedown? Seems slightly sketchy to me, I honestly want a sealed box but my pepboys one has done well so far.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just dropped the shield, drilled through and put my hardware on and put it back up, it fit underneath...

esedp...
are you not using a box, just a tiedown? Seems slightly sketchy to me, I honestly want a sealed box but my pepboys one has done well so far.</TD></TR></TABLE>

why is a sealed box needed? its not needed under the hood, so why in the trunk?