Alright i have my P28 from hondata installed now and my redline is now @ a good 7500RPM's wich seems safe and my Vtec seems to kick in @ about 4800rpm but when it kicks in my car gets all laggy like not enought air or fuel is going in so i pretty much pussies ouit @ 4800 so im confused and by the way its an Ls-vtec with 600 miles on the motor and i kno that it needs to be tuned but i know people who have changed ecu's on new motors and ther vtec was fine so i need some help

thanx

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CCCPRB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it needs to be tuned</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CCCPRB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it needs to be tuned</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CCCPRB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it needs to be tuned</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

you probably need Gsr fuel pump with up grade fuel lines and upgrade injectors

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rpared01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you probably need Gsr fuel pump with up grade fuel lines and upgrade injectors</TD></TR></TABLE>

STOP THAT IMMEDIATELY

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CCCPRB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it needs to be tuned</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CCCPRB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it needs to be tuned</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CCCPRB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it needs to be tuned</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rpared01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you probably need Gsr fuel pump with up grade fuel lines and upgrade injectors</TD></TR></TABLE>
Umm, no. You probably need to stop posting misinformation.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rpared01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you probably need Gsr fuel pump with up grade fuel lines and upgrade injectors</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Umm, no. You probably need to stop posting misinformation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please do.

You Sir are running a sohc ecu on a dohc motor.

See the problem? Get it tuned.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CCCPRB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright i have my P28 from hondata installed now and my redline is now @ a good 7500RPM's wich seems safe and my Vtec seems to kick in @ about 4800rpm but when it kicks in my car gets all laggy like not enought air or fuel is going in so i pretty much pussies ouit @ 4800 so im confused and by the way its an Ls-vtec with 600 miles on the motor and i kno that it needs to be tuned but i know people who have changed ecu's on new motors and ther vtec was fine so i need some help

thanx </TD></TR></TABLE>

you told us all this but failed to tell us what year, make, and model of the car that all this stuff is going into...being you're a new guy here i'll let it slide this time...but if you have any questions in the future...please be sure to state Y,M,M of car and a list of mods done to the car...then ask your questions.

 

i would get it tuned and then se if the lagging is still there

 

4800 rpm is too damn low for any B series vtec. Almost all the cars I've tuned have the sweet spot around 5500-6000 with stock cams.

 

the car is a 99 civic Ex and its a B16a1 head with a B18a2 Block and its almost broke in it has about 1000 miles on the motor


Modified by CCCPRB at 9:40 AM 6/8/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CCCPRB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the car is a 99 civic Ex and its a B16a1 head with a B16 Block and its almost broke in it has about 1000 miles on the motor </TD></TR></TABLE>

Have you gotten it tuned yet?

 

i thought you said it was lsvtec now its a b16 with a b16 head never saw that before

 

LoL

This is what happens when ricers think they can double their civic's power by buying a VTEC controller and dropping the VTEC engagement point to 2500 RPM. Same exact thing, basically.

For a LS/VTEC the optimal VTEC engagement point's gonna be higher than 4800 RPM, try it at like 5600 and see if that's better.

You need to get it dyno tuned - that'll show you your optimal VTEC engagement point and more efficient fuel tables.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rpared01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you probably need Gsr fuel pump with up grade fuel lines and upgrade injectors</TD></TR></TABLE>


Why would you need to change the fuel lines?? i didnt and ive never had fuel problems and its a B18C in a 92-95 civic

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d15-jdm-civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Why would you need to change the fuel lines?? i didnt and ive never had fuel problems and its a B18C in a 92-95 civic</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, hes some douch that does'nt know what he is talking about...probably some 17yr old rice king


i say get it chipped with chrome and tuned... nothing beats a great tune.

 

first of all i'm not no ricer king and yes i am 17 its an Lsvtec and yea i know about getting it tuned i just want to have make sure everything is right before tunning cause some place wont tune a car thats fucked up i checked the Vtec Selinoid and it works all the ***** hooked up and yea i am going to use a chrome chip and the people that are helping me with my car arnt even close to rice their all into JDM like seriously into it the get kick *** parts from Japan and know most of the people @ tuning shops

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For a LS/VTEC the optimal VTEC engagement point's gonna be higher than 4800 RPM, try it at like 5600 and see if that's better.

You need to get it dyno tuned - that'll show you your optimal VTEC engagement point and more efficient fuel tables.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Syndacate's the man
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekhunter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i say get it chipped with chrome and tuned... nothing beats a great tune. </TD></TR></TABLE>
X2

 

well i'm going to get it tuned in about a week but how long do i need to run 10w30 oil in it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CCCPRB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i'm going to get it tuned in about a week but how long do i need to run 10w30 oil in it </TD></TR></TABLE>
No you need to run 50W140
10W30 Is good enough either that or some people like to use 10W25

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jhonny Ricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No you need to run 50W140
10W30 Is good enough either that or some people like to use 10W25</TD></TR></TABLE>
20w50 is the **** [/sarcasm]

 

yup 25w50 is how JDM motors have M4D TYT3 VT3C Y000

 

i was told by the honda mechanics that till i fully break it in 10w30 would be the best but i wanted to get some other peoples opinions

 

you should have tuned it immediately after initial startup or as soon afterward as possible. by doing this 1000 mile break in on an untuned ecu you could have caused more harm than good. the only thing that needs to be "broken in" on a freshly rebuilt engine are the rings. if those dont seat within the first few minutes of the engine running, they never will completely.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should have tuned it immediately after initial startup or as soon afterward as possible. by doing this 1000 mile break in on an untuned ecu you could have caused more harm than good. the only thing that needs to be "broken in" on a freshly rebuilt engine are the rings. if those dont seat within the first few minutes of the engine running, they never will completely.</TD></TR></TABLE>

X1000

most of the time you'd want to run 10w30 as the averagebut it also depends on the conditions that the engine will be running in. colder weather conditions usually want a slightly thicker oil so it sticks to internal engine components so that upon the NEXT startup the parts are still a little bit lubed up. ...but as you are breaking in the motor...if i'm not mistaken most people run regular oil and NOT synthetic during the break-in process of a newly assembled rebuilt/built engine. someone correct me if i'm wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jz98ctr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">colder weather conditions usually want a slightly thicker oil so it sticks to internal engine components so that upon the NEXT startup the parts are still a little bit lubed up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, that's not how it works.

Oil does not stick to internal engine components. It is affected by gravity just like everything else - when you turn off the engine and leave it sit, all the oil drains down into the sump pan.

In colder climates, you should be running a less viscous oil, so that it will flow more easily upon start-up and reach the critical lubrication points sooner. A more viscous oil will resist flowing and take a longer amount of time to reach the top of the engine when cold. This is why cars running 10w-40 and 20w-50 will exhibit valve tap on cold starts until the oil is sufficiently warm to flow at a normal rate.