need new rotors anybody know of good brand?
my front rotors are getting worn and i have money rite now... so does anybody know of a good brand? i want stock size but slotted rotors n steel braided brake lines. thanks guys
Rotors are rotors regardless of what most people say.
Go to advance auto and get the correct ones for you car. Don't spend the $$ for anything else fancy.
Go to advance auto and get the correct ones for you car. Don't spend the $$ for anything else fancy.
i beleive the diameter and width are different on the ep3 then the dc5 but todd is right, rotors are rotors meaning don't let a "name brand" make you believe you have 200% more stopping power blah blah blah etc... kinda crap just because they are a name brand company. Just get the rotors that are specificlly for your car.
yeah oem or oem replacement blanks do the job fine..we use blanks on our racecars if that means anythig for ya.. slots and holes are just kinda a waste
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hawaiiancb74 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah oem or oem replacement blanks do the job fine..we use blanks on our racecars if that means anythig for ya.. slots and holes are just kinda a waste</TD></TR></TABLE>
i wouldn't say slots and holes are a waste.. they serve their purpose.
i wouldn't say slots and holes are a waste.. they serve their purpose.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hawaiiancb74 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah oem or oem replacement blanks do the job fine..we use blanks on our racecars if that means anythig for ya.. slots and holes are just kinda a waste</TD></TR></TABLE>
so brembo blanks will pratically have the same stopping power as slotted? i autocross a little... will the brembo blanks have brake fade? and will slotted rotors have less brake fade?
so brembo blanks will pratically have the same stopping power as slotted? i autocross a little... will the brembo blanks have brake fade? and will slotted rotors have less brake fade?
Stopping distance comes from getting all four tires to work at the maximum of their ability, not from magical pads or rotors.
No OE-replica replacement straight-vane rotor will affect fade (cooling). Name brands don't magically make rotors that look just like everyone else's rotors somehow work differently. Slots and holes don't affect fade.
If you want to improve rotor cooling, take the backing plates off while you're changing the rotors, or trim them so they still protect ball joints from radiated heat. If you just remove the plates and go to the track, you'll need to wrap the ball joints with heat shielding or end up replacing them after the radiated heat takes them out.
You could also keep the backing plates and build forced-air ducts to them. King Motorsport did it really nicely on the Davis Acura Grand-Am ST cars.
Stuff that works isn't cheap. If you need your brakes to work at the track, put in some real pads, like Hawk HT14f/HT10r or DTC-70f/HT-10r, assuming they're available. Then switch back to street pads for the street. For autocross, you can use a dual-purpose pad like Ferodo DS2500 or even Axxis ULT (nice street pad). Bleed with brake fluid that has a dry boiling point of 500F or higher.
Slots and holes are to help remove spent friction material from the pad/rotor interface, keeping good friction material in contact with the rotor. In rain, they may reduce the time it takes the pad to squeegee the rotor and start working. Slot and drill pattern designs do matter, as they can promote or counter a rotor's natural tendency to crack.
I have always recommended StopTech brake lines since I installed my first set.
No OE-replica replacement straight-vane rotor will affect fade (cooling). Name brands don't magically make rotors that look just like everyone else's rotors somehow work differently. Slots and holes don't affect fade.
If you want to improve rotor cooling, take the backing plates off while you're changing the rotors, or trim them so they still protect ball joints from radiated heat. If you just remove the plates and go to the track, you'll need to wrap the ball joints with heat shielding or end up replacing them after the radiated heat takes them out.
You could also keep the backing plates and build forced-air ducts to them. King Motorsport did it really nicely on the Davis Acura Grand-Am ST cars.
Stuff that works isn't cheap. If you need your brakes to work at the track, put in some real pads, like Hawk HT14f/HT10r or DTC-70f/HT-10r, assuming they're available. Then switch back to street pads for the street. For autocross, you can use a dual-purpose pad like Ferodo DS2500 or even Axxis ULT (nice street pad). Bleed with brake fluid that has a dry boiling point of 500F or higher.
Slots and holes are to help remove spent friction material from the pad/rotor interface, keeping good friction material in contact with the rotor. In rain, they may reduce the time it takes the pad to squeegee the rotor and start working. Slot and drill pattern designs do matter, as they can promote or counter a rotor's natural tendency to crack.
I have always recommended StopTech brake lines since I installed my first set.
thanks ... yeah slots give you a new braking surfice everytime you hit the brakes.. on the gt cars i off load they all run brembo blanks and cobalt pads.. if it wasnt for the dust load.. i would run the same.. for daily driving and light agressivce driving such as laps on an autocross course... ide recomend blanks and some hawks or axis. dude with the book above me can prolly vouch lol.... expletive i give up... drive into the wall youll stop
I recently bought Signature Series rotors off of Raceshopper.com. They were about 26 dollars a piece IIRC. Nice pieces. Pretty happy with them so far.
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