Question on modding my type r!!!
I have a 2000 itr w/ a 96 jdm b18c type r motor. I already have intake, header, exhaust, hi flow cat, clutch, flywheel, plugs and wires. I'm wondering what else I can do to gain some horses aside from messing with the internals (cams, pistons, etc.). Those are obviously major power parts but I don't wanna play those cards because I trust the reliability of the JDM motor. Is there anything (ignition, fuel etc.) that will help me shave a couple more tenths off my 1/4 mile? I run a 14.2 now and I'd love to hit high 13s without having to take away from the motor's reliability. Any advice? Thanks!
What header and exhaust do you have? You can always better those for a "little" bit of HP gain... and if you don't want to mess with the head or block then shave some weight. When you go run at the track take all your seats out, make sure your spare tire and all that junk is out and see what that does for you, and put it back in when you're done.
List what header/intake/exhaust you have.
Also, has the car been tuned after these mods were added? That's what I'd do if you haven't, tuning will add horses and reliability (or lack thereof depending on how it's tuned)
Also, has the car been tuned after these mods were added? That's what I'd do if you haven't, tuning will add horses and reliability (or lack thereof depending on how it's tuned)
i've done 9,000 daily miles since March on a Jun stage 3 head. as long as its tuned correctly and assembled correctly there shouldn't be any reliability issues
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The car is tuned. The header is crap (I needed something asap to get the car running so I used the ebay header off of my old gsr (90 bucks); Magnaflow cat and muffler, 2.5 inch piping. How about fuel rail, injectors, fuel pump, ignition, ground wires, radiator, pulleys, etc.? Any time shaved there? I run a 14.1 as is...
I'm personally running the "DTR Street header" it makes a big differance, but they run about $900. You might beable to find one used for a little cheaper. I know you said your running 2.25, but what kind is it? or did a shop do it? another thing to remember is, you get what you pay for!!
Bigger throttle body, open up the exhaust more ( 3inch ) and get the **** tuned!!!
other then that the real power comes from internals....1 part always leads to another...
other then that the real power comes from internals....1 part always leads to another...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR_HO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bigger throttle body, open up the exhaust more ( 3inch ) </TD></TR></TABLE>
3 inch? LOL!! Obviously you don't have a clue to what you're talking about...
3 inch? LOL!! Obviously you don't have a clue to what you're talking about...
ya...i guess i dont know what im talking about when it comes to simple mods. i mean if you have a type R why not build it up. i said 3 inch exhaust for future mods like cams. if you have something like skunk stage 2 cams and dont have a exhaust for better flow then your robbing some power from the cams. im just used to building up the motors rather then just stuff that looks pretty when you pop the hood.
having a type R and not building it is how i feel about 60yr old men buying Vettes, Lambos and **** like that then going 60mph.
Bastards.
having a type R and not building it is how i feel about 60yr old men buying Vettes, Lambos and **** like that then going 60mph.
Bastards.
get the stock intake manifold ported and polished. I remember seeing something on here where the guy said he gained like 10-15 whp from doing this. They cut open the intake manifold, did what they had to do and put it back together.
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From: ...and then along comes the fcuking policia, PA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR_HO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya...i guess i dont know what im talking about when it comes to simple mods. i mean if you have a type R why not build it up. i said 3 inch exhaust for future mods like cams. ....... </TD></TR></TABLE>
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From: ...and then along comes the fcuking policia, PA
NOOOO, no need for itb's. The right IM and a throttle body bore will do better than the itb's and easier to tune too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR_HO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya...i guess i dont know what im talking about when it comes to simple mods. i mean if you have a type R why not build it up. i said 3 inch exhaust for future mods like cams. if you have something like skunk stage 2 cams and dont have a exhaust for better flow then your robbing some power from the cams. im just used to building up the motors rather then just stuff that looks pretty when you pop the hood.
having a type R and not building it is how i feel about 60yr old men buying Vettes, Lambos and **** like that then going 60mph.
Bastards.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL, don't be a dumb *** please... Even on a fully built 2.0L C5 motor a 3" Exhaust is going to rob you of power. So by trying to save yourself saying that you're "used to building up the motors" Is complete bullshit if you're talking about Skunk Stage 2 Cams and a 3" exhaust. Who're you trying to kid?
I have 2 C5s for my R one of them being fully built making 232whp. With a 2.5" Exhaust, how much power do you think I'll make with a 3"? Take a wild guess, a shot in the dark, please.
The Original Poster clearly said <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr590 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm wondering what else I can do to gain some horses aside from messing with the internals (cams, pistons, etc.).</TD></TR></TABLE> anyway...
having a type R and not building it is how i feel about 60yr old men buying Vettes, Lambos and **** like that then going 60mph.
Bastards.
</TD></TR></TABLE>LOL, don't be a dumb *** please... Even on a fully built 2.0L C5 motor a 3" Exhaust is going to rob you of power. So by trying to save yourself saying that you're "used to building up the motors" Is complete bullshit if you're talking about Skunk Stage 2 Cams and a 3" exhaust. Who're you trying to kid?
I have 2 C5s for my R one of them being fully built making 232whp. With a 2.5" Exhaust, how much power do you think I'll make with a 3"? Take a wild guess, a shot in the dark, please.
The Original Poster clearly said <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr590 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm wondering what else I can do to gain some horses aside from messing with the internals (cams, pistons, etc.).</TD></TR></TABLE> anyway...
So your saying by putting a 3 inch exhaust it wouldnt help at all? i highly doubt that. yes im sure you Can run your street car with 2 1/2 inch exhaust and it'll run fine. but you cant say by adding more flow it wouldnt help. its not like you would be robbing power. take your head out your ***.
Pipe Sizing
We've seen quiet a few "experienced" racers tell people that a bigger exhaust is a better exhaust. Hahaha… NOT.
As discussed earlier, exhaust gas is hot. And we'd like to keep it hot throughout the exhaust system. Why? The answer is simple. Cold air is dense air, and dense air is heavy air. We don't want our engine to be pushing a heavy mass of exhaust gas out of the tailpipe. An extremely large exhaust pipe will cause a slow exhaust flow, which will in turn give the gas plenty of time to cool off en route. Overlarge piping will also allow our exhaust pulses to achieve a higher level of entropy, which will take all of our header tuning and throw it out the window, as pulses will not have the same tendency to line up as they would in a smaller pipe. Coating the entire exhaust system with an insulative material, such as header wrap or a ceramic thermal barrier coating reduces this effect somewhat, but unless you have lots of cash burning a hole in your pocket, is probably not worth the expense on a street driven car.
Unfortunately, we know of no accurate way to calculate optimal exhaust pipe diameter. This is mainly due to the random nature of an exhaust system -- things like bends or kinks in the piping, temperature fluctuations, differences in muffler design, and the lot, make selecting a pipe diameter little more than a guessing game. For engines making 250 to 350 horsepower, the generally accepted pipe diameter is 3 to 3 ? inches. Over that amount, you'd be best off going to 4 inches. If you have an engine making over 400 to 500 horsepower, you'd better be happy capping off the fun with a 4 inch exhaust. Ah, the drawbacks of horsepower. The best alternative here would probably be to just run open
exhaust!
We've seen quiet a few "experienced" racers tell people that a bigger exhaust is a better exhaust. Hahaha… NOT.
As discussed earlier, exhaust gas is hot. And we'd like to keep it hot throughout the exhaust system. Why? The answer is simple. Cold air is dense air, and dense air is heavy air. We don't want our engine to be pushing a heavy mass of exhaust gas out of the tailpipe. An extremely large exhaust pipe will cause a slow exhaust flow, which will in turn give the gas plenty of time to cool off en route. Overlarge piping will also allow our exhaust pulses to achieve a higher level of entropy, which will take all of our header tuning and throw it out the window, as pulses will not have the same tendency to line up as they would in a smaller pipe. Coating the entire exhaust system with an insulative material, such as header wrap or a ceramic thermal barrier coating reduces this effect somewhat, but unless you have lots of cash burning a hole in your pocket, is probably not worth the expense on a street driven car.
Unfortunately, we know of no accurate way to calculate optimal exhaust pipe diameter. This is mainly due to the random nature of an exhaust system -- things like bends or kinks in the piping, temperature fluctuations, differences in muffler design, and the lot, make selecting a pipe diameter little more than a guessing game. For engines making 250 to 350 horsepower, the generally accepted pipe diameter is 3 to 3 ? inches. Over that amount, you'd be best off going to 4 inches. If you have an engine making over 400 to 500 horsepower, you'd better be happy capping off the fun with a 4 inch exhaust. Ah, the drawbacks of horsepower. The best alternative here would probably be to just run open
exhaust!
Bigger exhaust=less restriction
NA motors need a tad bit of back pressure to run properly. I know I'm not being super technical, but it is something that can be researched. Many have lost power going with too big of an exhaust NA.
NA motors need a tad bit of back pressure to run properly. I know I'm not being super technical, but it is something that can be researched. Many have lost power going with too big of an exhaust NA.
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From: ...and then along comes the fcuking policia, PA
It sounds like something you copied and pasted from a building a Ford deisel book. It was way to intelectual compared to your previous posts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by attentionwhore »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It sounds like something you copied and pasted from a building a Ford deisel book. It was way to intelectual compared to your previous posts.
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owned
</TD></TR></TABLE>owned



