Dyno'ed my lude on AWD Mustang Dyno
For my previous dyno, please refer: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1324527
I couldn't get an appointment with the same shop where I did my tunning before, which has the Dynodynamics dyno (DD).
Instead, I took the lude to another shop who just brought in an AWD Mustang Dyno. I know MD does have a tendency to read much lower than other dynos, I've seen it ranges anywhere from 15% to 38% difference. All I wanted is to get my fresh motor tuned so I thought I should give MD a shot no matter how the numbers will be.
Mods: TWM ITBs/AEM EMS/JUN valvetrain/P&P head/3 angle valve job/balanced block/SMSP header/SMSP exhaust w/ HKS muffler/GE sleeves/JE pistons 11.5/Eagle rods/UR pulleys/Quaife LSD
1700km on newly built motor, 3 oil changes so far, hasn't done valve adjustment.
I went in with baseline of 179whp/130wtq (I almost fell out of the seat)
5 runs later, I came out with 183whp/134 wtq (yay, I gained 4whp)

I was a bit surprised by how low the numbers are. So I went home digged out my previous dyno from another shop just for comparison:
Previous mods: TWM 52mm ITB/motorcycle sock filters/AEM EMS/Jun valvetrain/SMSP header/SMSP exhaust with Sard muffler/UR pulleys/Quaife LSD
Head and bottem end was USDM stock w/ 10.1 compression

Our local Dynodynamics reads about 10% less than Dynojets, bone stock Preludes are averaging about 140whp (vs 154whp on dynojet). If you want to translate my old numbers to dynojet figures, multiply 206 by 1.1 would be fairly accurate.
Im also running AEM big brake kit and 18" wheels for both dynos, so numbers could be higher w/ stock brakes and smaller wheels setup.
Now let's assume that I didn't make gains from the higher compression and P&P, which is nearly impossible
At 5250rpm, I made only 120whp on MD. But previously on DD, I had 150whp. This conservative calculation shows <U>at least</U> 25% difference in dyno reading between the MD & DD!
If my assumption stands correct, I could be making at least 183 x 1.25 = 229whp on DD.
And for dynojet figures, it would be approximately 229 x 1.1 =252whp.
Sounds about right? I'll have to confirm once I hit the DD dyno again.
Despite the low readings from MD, the car drives wonderfully with amazing throttle response and mad VTEC.
Until then, let me hear what you guys have to say.
Modified by VSBB6 at 12:05 PM 6/3/2007
I couldn't get an appointment with the same shop where I did my tunning before, which has the Dynodynamics dyno (DD).
Instead, I took the lude to another shop who just brought in an AWD Mustang Dyno. I know MD does have a tendency to read much lower than other dynos, I've seen it ranges anywhere from 15% to 38% difference. All I wanted is to get my fresh motor tuned so I thought I should give MD a shot no matter how the numbers will be.
Mods: TWM ITBs/AEM EMS/JUN valvetrain/P&P head/3 angle valve job/balanced block/SMSP header/SMSP exhaust w/ HKS muffler/GE sleeves/JE pistons 11.5/Eagle rods/UR pulleys/Quaife LSD
1700km on newly built motor, 3 oil changes so far, hasn't done valve adjustment.
I went in with baseline of 179whp/130wtq (I almost fell out of the seat)
5 runs later, I came out with 183whp/134 wtq (yay, I gained 4whp)

I was a bit surprised by how low the numbers are. So I went home digged out my previous dyno from another shop just for comparison:
Previous mods: TWM 52mm ITB/motorcycle sock filters/AEM EMS/Jun valvetrain/SMSP header/SMSP exhaust with Sard muffler/UR pulleys/Quaife LSD
Head and bottem end was USDM stock w/ 10.1 compression

Our local Dynodynamics reads about 10% less than Dynojets, bone stock Preludes are averaging about 140whp (vs 154whp on dynojet). If you want to translate my old numbers to dynojet figures, multiply 206 by 1.1 would be fairly accurate.
Im also running AEM big brake kit and 18" wheels for both dynos, so numbers could be higher w/ stock brakes and smaller wheels setup.
Now let's assume that I didn't make gains from the higher compression and P&P, which is nearly impossible
At 5250rpm, I made only 120whp on MD. But previously on DD, I had 150whp. This conservative calculation shows <U>at least</U> 25% difference in dyno reading between the MD & DD!
If my assumption stands correct, I could be making at least 183 x 1.25 = 229whp on DD.
And for dynojet figures, it would be approximately 229 x 1.1 =252whp.
Sounds about right? I'll have to confirm once I hit the DD dyno again.
Despite the low readings from MD, the car drives wonderfully with amazing throttle response and mad VTEC.
Until then, let me hear what you guys have to say.
Modified by VSBB6 at 12:05 PM 6/3/2007
It has been street-tuned via data logging really well, only minor changes was made on the dyno to extract more power.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AznBlueBoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you waited until 1700km before you tuned? so you were driving around for 1700km on a fully built motor completely untuned?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AznBlueBoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you waited until 1700km before you tuned? so you were driving around for 1700km on a fully built motor completely untuned?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's just the way how dynos are. Tons of variables affects how a particular dyno will read. Even two of the exact same models at two different shops would read differently.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93sivtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do they tend to run soo very inconsistent on different dyno's? It seems like there would be a way to make them more accurate,no?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93sivtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do they tend to run soo very inconsistent on different dyno's? It seems like there would be a way to make them more accurate,no?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Trending Topics
its not a challenge, i just want to see what you run lol
my motor is in pieces now
i am on vpc but not using the same username because i was banned lol
besides, vpc sucks
nobody on there is into performance, only cosmetics
my motor is in pieces now
i am on vpc but not using the same username because i was banned lol
besides, vpc sucks
nobody on there is into performance, only cosmetics
well if you are going to run on your street tires, just roll off the line because i couldn't get traction slipping the clutch out at 2k lol
and you should have more power then me so yeah
im hoping to have my car ready by the 22nd but we'll see.
and you should have more power then me so yeah
im hoping to have my car ready by the 22nd but we'll see.
I'd look for a Dynojet to try. From all the graphs that get post, the dynojet results seem the most consistent. I believe the reason for that is there are inputs required for the Mustang and Dynopacks. I'm not familar with the DDs though.
This is one reason why I still like the simple timed acceleration run. Pick one gear, flat road, full throttle at 2000 rpm, start the watch at 3000 rpm and stop it at 7000, 8000 or 9000. Make a few runs, throw out the BS times and then do you mods and repeat.
This is one reason why I still like the simple timed acceleration run. Pick one gear, flat road, full throttle at 2000 rpm, start the watch at 3000 rpm and stop it at 7000, 8000 or 9000. Make a few runs, throw out the BS times and then do you mods and repeat.
The only Dynojet we have in town has been sold and transferred to 3 different owners in the past 10 to 15 years. From what I know, it has never been serviced or uploaded with any new software since day one. I have experienced with it before but I won't go back for tunning because the reading was not consistent even between the runs, it's accuracy is not dependable.
So the valid dyno facilities in our area are really just the Dyno Dynamics and Mustang dynos . Now that my motor is tuned, all I really need is to make a run on the DD to compare what I had before.
The simple timed acceleration test sounds like a good idea, I think GTECH Pro is something that I could look into for my next mod
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SMSP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd look for a Dynojet to try. From all the graphs that get post, the dynojet results seem the most consistent. I believe the reason for that is there are inputs required for the Mustang and Dynopacks. I'm not familar with the DDs though.
This is one reason why I still like the simple timed acceleration run. Pick one gear, flat road, full throttle at 2000 rpm, start the watch at 3000 rpm and stop it at 7000, 8000 or 9000. Make a few runs, throw out the BS times and then do you mods and repeat.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So the valid dyno facilities in our area are really just the Dyno Dynamics and Mustang dynos . Now that my motor is tuned, all I really need is to make a run on the DD to compare what I had before.
The simple timed acceleration test sounds like a good idea, I think GTECH Pro is something that I could look into for my next mod

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SMSP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd look for a Dynojet to try. From all the graphs that get post, the dynojet results seem the most consistent. I believe the reason for that is there are inputs required for the Mustang and Dynopacks. I'm not familar with the DDs though.
This is one reason why I still like the simple timed acceleration run. Pick one gear, flat road, full throttle at 2000 rpm, start the watch at 3000 rpm and stop it at 7000, 8000 or 9000. Make a few runs, throw out the BS times and then do you mods and repeat.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mustang dynos should be illegal
</TD></TR></TABLE>
When it comes to Real World tuning they are the way to go.....
What was that AD slogan........With all other Dynos youre just spinning your Wheels.
Who cares about damn numbers anyway.....The MD loads your car with weight.
I will be doing all of my tuning on a Mustang dyno very soon...
</TD></TR></TABLE>When it comes to Real World tuning they are the way to go.....
What was that AD slogan........With all other Dynos youre just spinning your Wheels.
Who cares about damn numbers anyway.....The MD loads your car with weight.
I will be doing all of my tuning on a Mustang dyno very soon...
Peak power clear over 8000rpm, must be pretty nice.
130wtq, though? That would be something you'd expect out of a stock engine @ 10:1 CR. Silly mustang dynos, heh.
130wtq, though? That would be something you'd expect out of a stock engine @ 10:1 CR. Silly mustang dynos, heh.
I hit 163wtq before on the Dynodynamics when my motor had 10.1:1 stock compression. Now with 11.5:1 my motor makes 134wtq on the MD, it is clearly underrated by a huge margin.
Let ignore the numbers, by comparing the difference in the curve of both graphs. My new HP graph does goes up in a more steeper sloper above VTEC and all the way to redline, whereas the old graph does tend to flattens as it tops out. Max power now tops @ >8000 vs 7400 previously.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Blue Lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Peak power clear over 8000rpm, must be pretty nice.
130wtq, though? That would be something you'd expect out of a stock engine @ 10:1 CR. Silly mustang dynos, heh.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Let ignore the numbers, by comparing the difference in the curve of both graphs. My new HP graph does goes up in a more steeper sloper above VTEC and all the way to redline, whereas the old graph does tend to flattens as it tops out. Max power now tops @ >8000 vs 7400 previously.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Blue Lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Peak power clear over 8000rpm, must be pretty nice.
130wtq, though? That would be something you'd expect out of a stock engine @ 10:1 CR. Silly mustang dynos, heh.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No I'm running Full Jun valvetrain including camshafts!
Stock camshafts would NOT make power pass 8000K.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by :=:NirVTEC:=: »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you running STOCK Cams?!?!?!
I see you list JUN Valvetrain.......Stock Cams with a build like that?! What are you thinking?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stock camshafts would NOT make power pass 8000K.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by :=:NirVTEC:=: »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you running STOCK Cams?!?!?!
I see you list JUN Valvetrain.......Stock Cams with a build like that?! What are you thinking?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VSBB6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No I'm running Full Jun valvetrain including camshafts!
Stock camshafts would NOT make power pass 8000K.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok, thats what I was hoping!
My JUNs hit 8300 and were still flat! Power past 7000 is now insane!!!!
Hey, jump in on this thread!
JUN Cam owners thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2
Stock camshafts would NOT make power pass 8000K.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok, thats what I was hoping!
My JUNs hit 8300 and were still flat! Power past 7000 is now insane!!!!
Hey, jump in on this thread!
JUN Cam owners thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




