Hey guys first post here. I am new to imports (I race Chevies, sorry ) anyway my g/f's 95 Civic DX 1.5L is acting wierd. If it has been sitting out in the sun and hot it will not crank when you go to start it.

I have removed and cleaned the Idle Air Control valve. Before the car ran like crap and I replaced the Ignitor, reset the ECM. I tested the solenoid on the car, but it started. Tester has not been hooked up when the car would not start. Also the SRS and CE light come on when the key is turned and the CE goes off after about 2s with the audible click from under the dash. If the car chooses not to start when you turn the key to start you will get nothing, no noises, but power is diverted because the radio and cluster lights turn off, but lights do not dim. Does anyone have any ideas?

Before I reset the computer I got a Cyl 1 CYP sensor fault, dunno what/where that is. No CES light since the reset with new igniton.

Also when you start the car cold it has begun to surge about 3 times before coming to a steady idle. Car has no tach, but I'm guessing it surges from 800 to 1500 rpm.

I appreciate any input!

-Dave

 

Check your main relay, the solder on the pins cracks over time. When the relay heats up it causes the fuel pump to lose power. I re-soldered mine and problem was solved. You could also buy a new one for 60-70$. If you have any soldering skill at all, its very easy to do.

 

I'll give it a check. Under the dash I assume? The fuel pump losing power wouldn't be related to the engine not turning over would it?

 

x2. The man speaks the truth. I have a 92 hatch that has done the same in hot temps down south.. causes fuel pump to go on vacation in Alaska. As for the cold start surge from 800 to 1500 rpm....check coolant lines going to the IACV. Also, if you've had a radiator leak and ran a "sealer" through it...I'd check hoses.

 

Gotcha about the fuel pump, but I still don't see why the engine won't turn over. Sorry, this is frustrating me. I do appreciate the help and I'll definately check out the main relay.

 

If the engine does not crank, there are only two circuits to check. IF you have a voltmeter it takes about 2 mins to find the problem. The starter has 3 terminals. B, S, M. The b terminal must be clean of any dirt/corrosion, or your car might not start. The starter must be firmly attached to the tranny (im sure it is) and the trans ground cable fro mthe tranny to the frame must be present, and in clean shape. If thats all good, chekc the S terminal. Its got a speaker clip type connector (BLK/YEL wire), make sure that is in there tight (they have a problem with falling out) If you take a voltmeter to this wire, it should read whatever your battery voltage is (IE 12.6V) If all that checks out, then your starter is faulty, and must be replaced. If that wire does not have battery voltage with the key in the ON (II) position, then you may have a blown ignition fuse, faulty ignition switch, or bad connection on the ignition cylinder.

If you have no CEL's for idle, then you have an air leak somewhere. try to hunt that down. IF the plunger in the IACV is clogged, it will only open more, since the engine gets most of its idle air from the PCV vent, 20% open on an IACV is normal. The IACV self corrects idle speed but turning on or off to compensate for the amount of air is taken from the PCV vent, or in this case, a vacuum leak. Only it is too much, and the IACV can't correct it because it is closed all the way, so the PCM will "hunt" for an idle by using timing or fuel.

 

http://techauto.tripod.com/mainrelay.htm