Confusion on WHERE to clean EGR ports
Hey everyone! Its been about a year and a half since I was last on this forum...I've missed it.
Anyways. Got a '96 with an F22B1 and getting the customary "EGR insufficient flow." Yesterday for the first time I also flipped an "O2 sensor slow response" (not sure if anyone else has gotten this...hopefully its related).
My question is concerning where to clean the ports. I've done my homework and everything points to removing the cover under the fuel rail. However, one of my coworkers who is an ASE master tech with 30 years of experience, thinks he knows everything, and has a huge chip on his shoulder (changing oil is beneath him!) and also has the exact same vehicle swears up and down to remove the IM at the bend and clean out the passages. From the pictures I've seen the passages don't even extend up that far! Can anyone who's actually taken the entire IM apart verify this? I'm not opposed to doing both, I just don't want to do more work than is necessary for no gain.
The pictures I'm referring to are here <U>https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=442008</U>
Also what gaskets do I need? Is everything metal and reusable?
Another interesting note is that I'm using a very high dollar Snap-On scanner. The codes I read from the scanner aren't even close to what I read from the CEL blinking by bridging the blue connector. Just thought it was really weird! I tend to trust the scanner and the car does have 144k miles and gas mileage has been steadily decreasing.
Thanks in advance everyone
Anyways. Got a '96 with an F22B1 and getting the customary "EGR insufficient flow." Yesterday for the first time I also flipped an "O2 sensor slow response" (not sure if anyone else has gotten this...hopefully its related).
My question is concerning where to clean the ports. I've done my homework and everything points to removing the cover under the fuel rail. However, one of my coworkers who is an ASE master tech with 30 years of experience, thinks he knows everything, and has a huge chip on his shoulder (changing oil is beneath him!) and also has the exact same vehicle swears up and down to remove the IM at the bend and clean out the passages. From the pictures I've seen the passages don't even extend up that far! Can anyone who's actually taken the entire IM apart verify this? I'm not opposed to doing both, I just don't want to do more work than is necessary for no gain.
The pictures I'm referring to are here <U>https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=442008</U>
Also what gaskets do I need? Is everything metal and reusable?
Another interesting note is that I'm using a very high dollar Snap-On scanner. The codes I read from the scanner aren't even close to what I read from the CEL blinking by bridging the blue connector. Just thought it was really weird! I tend to trust the scanner and the car does have 144k miles and gas mileage has been steadily decreasing.
Thanks in advance everyone
thanks for the link, but already been there
As mentioned ABOVE my question is whether taking the intake apart is necessary.
As mentioned ABOVE my question is whether taking the intake apart is necessary.
You don't need to take the intake off....
Yes you need an egr port cover gasket...but you don't need to buy one...
If the engine light is on, you don't have a salvage title and you live in the US....You have a 150k mile emission warranty anything that caused the engine light to come on will be fixed free of charge...Take it to your local dealer tell them you vehicle failed an emission inspection.
If you don't live in the US, Let us know we can help you further.
Yes you need an egr port cover gasket...but you don't need to buy one...
If the engine light is on, you don't have a salvage title and you live in the US....You have a 150k mile emission warranty anything that caused the engine light to come on will be fixed free of charge...Take it to your local dealer tell them you vehicle failed an emission inspection.
If you don't live in the US, Let us know we can help you further.
Thanks for the info!
Yeah I was aware of the extended warranty, but some of the dealerships are screwy around here and I don't won't to dick with them.
I really don't have the damndest clue what this guy is talking about taking the intake apart...near as I can tell (haven't taken it apart just yet) there is simply no EGR passages running back that far.
I also live in Kansas where there are no emissions checks...
Yeah I was aware of the extended warranty, but some of the dealerships are screwy around here and I don't won't to dick with them.
I really don't have the damndest clue what this guy is talking about taking the intake apart...near as I can tell (haven't taken it apart just yet) there is simply no EGR passages running back that far.
I also live in Kansas where there are no emissions checks...
Just finished cleaning the ports...
And damn is all I can say! I really didn't expect things to be that bad. Two ports were clogged up completely and the other two were really close. The "EGR channel" was really bad and I spent like 20 minutes cleaning it. You'd think you were done and had a smooth surface only to find you just moved some carbon around and there was still a millimeter left! I figured the cleaner it was the less there'd be for new carbon to cling to...
I've been aware of this procedure for about two years now and was considering it as general maintenance but thought it would be too tedious and a pain in the *** with the fuel rail. I put it off until I started getting CEL's and the gas mileage took a nose dive.
For the record I just want to say that EVERY 5th gen (I think its 5th gen right?) accord owner should do this!!! All said and done it took me like an hour and a half and that's 'cuz I'm meticulous. It may very well be wishful thinking, but I swear even with a manual its more responsive!
And damn is all I can say! I really didn't expect things to be that bad. Two ports were clogged up completely and the other two were really close. The "EGR channel" was really bad and I spent like 20 minutes cleaning it. You'd think you were done and had a smooth surface only to find you just moved some carbon around and there was still a millimeter left! I figured the cleaner it was the less there'd be for new carbon to cling to...
I've been aware of this procedure for about two years now and was considering it as general maintenance but thought it would be too tedious and a pain in the *** with the fuel rail. I put it off until I started getting CEL's and the gas mileage took a nose dive.
For the record I just want to say that EVERY 5th gen (I think its 5th gen right?) accord owner should do this!!! All said and done it took me like an hour and a half and that's 'cuz I'm meticulous. It may very well be wishful thinking, but I swear even with a manual its more responsive!
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Yeah, the fuel rail thing isn't as hard as I thought it might be. I did get a couple of rags pretty damp with gasoline, and I don't like huffing fumes, so I took a break while things dried out at one point.
Careful how you put things back together though. I did it in the wrong order and pinched an o-ring. Three months later I was leaking fuel out the fuel rail. The correct way to do it is to put the injectors back into the rail, then slide the injectors/rail into the manifold and bolt it down. I put the injectors into the manifold first, and must have had things lined up a bit crooked when I put the rail back on.
Dunno about more responsive, but you should get a little better gas mileage now. Previously, your cylinders were getting unequal amounts of exhaust gas, so the fuel metering would have been high on some cylinders and low on others.
Careful how you put things back together though. I did it in the wrong order and pinched an o-ring. Three months later I was leaking fuel out the fuel rail. The correct way to do it is to put the injectors back into the rail, then slide the injectors/rail into the manifold and bolt it down. I put the injectors into the manifold first, and must have had things lined up a bit crooked when I put the rail back on.
Dunno about more responsive, but you should get a little better gas mileage now. Previously, your cylinders were getting unequal amounts of exhaust gas, so the fuel metering would have been high on some cylinders and low on others.
http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf
Here is a very good "How to" on cleaning egr ports for anybody thats interested.
Here is a very good "How to" on cleaning egr ports for anybody thats interested.
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