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GSR No start, replaced cam seal, wires, spark plug, distributer cap n rotor

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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 01:36 PM
  #1  
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Default GSR No start, replaced cam seal, wires, spark plug, distributer cap n rotor

As the title says, I replaced those things just because the older stuff was worn and old. First start up was significantly quicker than before, but after we cleaned up and 10 minutes or so later, it tries to start as in you can hear the distributer and starter, but it doesn't start at all. When I took out the Spark plugs, there was some fuel on the head of the spark plug unburnt, but there was some sort of dirt/burnt stuff on the edges of the spark plug. Could yall throw me some suggestions on what could've went wrong? (this was my first time... so meh)
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 01:43 PM
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Default Re: GSR No start, replaced cam seal, wires, spark plug, distributer cap n rotor (nivlacs3z)

are you getting spark?
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 01:51 PM
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Default Re: GSR No start, replaced cam seal, wires, spark plug, distributer cap n rotor (92_civic)

It sounds like it, but would I just have to take the plug out of the engine and start the car with the plugs out in order to find out?
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 03:24 PM
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Default Re: GSR No start, replaced cam seal, wires, spark plug, distributer cap n rotor (nivlacs3z)

the car starts though? or doesnt start. is your gap ok on your plugs? and are you sure you have the wires in right order
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 07:36 PM
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The wires are in the right order. The car does not start and thats the only problem right now. I think that the rotor is just in the wrong position. Before when we replaced the rotor, we had to spin it twice to get it to where the screw points out. Thing is, we never put it back into place so maybe thats the problem. I'm about to find out in a second. Thanks for the advices
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 09:05 PM
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Default Re: (nivlacs3z)

Mk, the thing is still not starting. I noticed that the belt HAS turned. Also, the rotor was turned twice in order to replace that with the new rotor. Would this affect the timing? (By turning, we started and listened for two clicks with all wires and spark plugs out.)
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 08:46 AM
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Default Re: (nivlacs3z)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nivlacs3z &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think that the rotor is just in the wrong position. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If the rotor is on and its screwed in, cant be in the wrong position. There is only one way to install those.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92_civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you getting spark?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you check?? I guess that would be the first thing into troubleshooting. Besides the wire order, which you did.
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 01:48 PM
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What I meant by the rotor being in in the wrong position is that when we opened up everything, the old rotor was in the wrong position to take off. Then we had to start the car with parts off (not really start but turn the key) and did that twice to expose the screw of the rotor. After that, we replaced the rotor and did not place the rotor back into the previous position before we started the car.
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 01:59 PM
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Default Re: (nivlacs3z)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nivlacs3z &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What I meant by the rotor being in in the wrong position is that when we opened up everything, the old rotor was in the wrong position to take off. Then we had to start the car with parts off (not really start but turn the key) and did that twice to expose the screw of the rotor. After that, we replaced the rotor and did not place the rotor back into the previous position before we started the car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

that doesn't matter.
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 08:50 PM
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Default

just pull each wire off the dizzy one at a time and stick the metal conductor thingy near the hole and see if it sparks
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 10:52 PM
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Default Re: (ndogg)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ndogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that doesn't matter.</TD></TR></TABLE>


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4g hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just pull each wire off the dizzy one at a time and stick the metal conductor thingy near the hole and see if it sparks</TD></TR></TABLE>
you should be able just to check it off the #1 spark plug wire. If its not getting spark you know its in the distrubutor. Either rotor, cap or ignition module. Or at least thats what I would assume cause I am no mechanic.
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 06:02 AM
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Default Re: (hitekper4mance)

Well, everything (ignition module and coil) is integrated into the dizzy, so.... guess i'll have to replace the entire thing.
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 07:17 AM
  #13  
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Default Re: (nivlacs3z)

ok, so the car ran before you did all of this?
Check and make sure you didnt accidentially knock a ground off, and what kind of cap and rotor did you go with, oem/aftermarket?
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 01:56 PM
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Default Re: (B6tPoweredMx3)

did you ever find out for sure whether it has spark or not?

safest/easiest way is to take off a plug wire and put a spare plug into the end of it, and ground the plug to the engine block (valve cover ground is a good spot) and have a friend crank the engine and see if the spark plug sparks

it does sound like the dreaded distributor disease though...need to find out for sure if it is missing spark though...you could have cooked it when you were cranking the engine over to gain access to the rotor bolt...more than likely it is the coil that went

easy way to check would be to swap dist. with a friend, and see if a different dist. will start the car

you can replace the coil, without having to replace the dist.

email me @ joe@ondemandperformance.com if you still haven't got it running...I'll try to walk you through it
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