Hey i have a 2000 gsr and i'm installing my new koni adjustable shocks. I've never done this before so i need a step by step instruction with pictures (if possible) to install this. I would greatly appreciate your help. thanks

 

use the search.

 

If it's on a Saturday, you can try to reach me on my cell phone. Free nights and weekends. 812-325-6625

What kind of springs?

Let's start with tools you'll need or should have to make your life easier.

19mm deep socket
17mm
14mm deep socket
12mm
10mm
various extensions
19mm box wrench or an adjustable wrench
9mm box wrench (maybe)
dremel or a drill and bits
spring compressor
screwdriver
factory floor jack
anti-seize compound
someone to drive you to the machine shop to press off the front mounting collars from your old shocks so you can use them on the Koni's

 

a hammer works just fine for this. taking it to a machine shop is ultimate overkill.

 

this should get you through it along w/ the Koni Diagram:
http://www.bseries.net/html/garage/spring.php

do a search.. I know I've typed it up before in the past..

 

I have skunk2 coilovers and thanks for your help IN VTEC and GSRaCeRbOI


[Modified by integragsr6, 12:00 AM 6/4/2002]

 

I used this:
http://internet.cybermesa.com/~drew/...uspension.html

I had to have the front springs sets re-assembled at a shop. The spring compressor I had would not fit on the new springs. The web page explains a simmilar problem with the rears.

 

I dont think I needed a spring compressor to put my Eibach sportlines onto my Koni shocks.. I needed the spring compressor to compress the stock springs so I could get it off the shocks and off of the top cap/shock mount though...

hey thats a really good link.. especially the pictures where the shock and washers are disassembled... this should help a lot




oh yeah get some gloves and hand cleaner.. cuz your hands are gonna be dirty and black as hell from all the dirt, grease, road grime.. make sure you have a floor jack, jack stands, spring compressor (safety first), also ratchets, breaker bar and sockets (10mm 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm I think if memory serves correct), hex/allen keys 5MM i think for the stock shock rod/spindle to hold it in place..14MM open end/box end combination wrench to turn the top nut as you use the allen key to hold the rod in place... (when i did my car like 3 yrs ago.. I had to figure this out Lolz I was like wtf it keeps spinning)... drill .. I might be a little off on the sizes.. cuz I just took out my mechanics tool set w/ all the sockets and open end wrenches.. the smaller ones 10 or 12MM i forget.. is for the brake lines... the 14MM is for the shock top nuts, and the larger 17 or 19 mm is for the bolt where it attaches to the lower control arm.. and the hex key to hold the shock rod stationary as you use the combination/open end wrench to undo the top nut (make sure spring is compressed and all pressure is off top cap)... hmm its pretty simple just kind of tedious.. a problem I encountered a few times was getting the bolt through the shock and LCA... but after a few tries we got it in.. maybe someone will post a good way of aligning the shock fork w/ the LCA to get the bolt in.. we had 1 person press down/stand on the rotor while the other put the bolt in... using the jack to position it up and down was helpful too..


maybe people will have other tools to add but from memory thats what I used..

good luck w/ your install... I got through mine w/ less material (koni instructions and asking people).. this was like 3 yrs ago before I knew these links existed hehe..





[Modified by GSRaCeRbOI, 7:12 PM 6/3/2002]

 

Thanks everyone for all your help.

 

Don't forget a 6 point 18mm socket if you are installing ingalls all the way around. For some odd reason they sent me bolts that thread correctly but instead of being 19mm they are 18mm. Anyone else ever had this problem? Maybe it's just me....

 

With the Koni shocks you will be replacing most of the stock hardware (washers and stuff). Each shock comes with a split plastic washer, 2 flat metal washers (one slightly smaller than the other one), a dished washer, a metal sleeve (tube), 2 jam nuts (19mm socket), and of course the spring perches and rings. To assemble the shock, place the perch ring over the shock body so it rests on the c-clip. Then the spring perch goes on top of that metal ring. Next install the plastic split washer and the bumpstop, then the smaller of the 2 flat washers. Enlarge the hole in your stock dust cover and place the dust cover over the shock so it rests on that flat washer you just installed. Place the larger of the 2 flat washers on top of the dust cover. Now you will need to remove the stock metal sleeve that is inside the rubber bushings on the stock upper spring seat (top hat, whatever) and replace it with the metal sleeve provided with the Koni shocks. Place the spring onto the perch, then the top hat w/ new metal sleeve over the top of the spring. The dished washer goes on top of the rubber top hat bushings, with the edges of the washer pointing up (like a bowl or plate would sit on the table). Finally the 2 jam nuts are installed on top of the piston **be careful not to damage the adjusting tab, use a deep socket!** If you need to hold the piston from turning, you can put a socket on the very top of the piston where the tab is (I think it's 8mm but I'm not certain) and then use an open-end wrench to tighten the nuts.

Now, about those brake line brackets that you have to install on the front shocks, you DEFINITELY need these on the Koni shocks. These not only hold the brake lines but they also help support the weight of the car (they bear down on the front lower shock forks). A hammer can get them off, but you have to hit it in JUST the right spot at JUST the right angle. Spray some WD-40 or PB Blaster around the bracket on the stock shock if you have trouble. Place the bracket on the Koni shock, and line up the tab in the bracket with the indentation in the shock body. The shock fork will fit on this tab, and the indentation is where the bolt goes through.

Here's another hint, in order to make sure everything is seated properly and to make sure none of the bolts try to strip (as mine tried to), when you get ready to bolt the shock fork back onto the shock, first place it on there loosely and get it lined up. Then install the bolt through the fork and lower control arm. Use your scissor jack or floor jack to raise up the LCA to put a load on the shock (compressing the shock/spring assembly). This will ensure that the shock fork, brake line bracket, and shock are all seated together properly. Install and tighten the upper (14mm) bolt in the shock fork while there is still a load on the shock, then remove the jack from under the LCA.

Also, make sure the front spring perches are not upside down when you install them. If you look at the perch from the edge, it should look like this as it sits on the ring and c-clip:

<BLOCKQUOTE>code:<HR><PRE>
_______
__/_______\__
</PRE><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

If it looks like this, it is upside down:

<BLOCKQUOTE>code:<HR><PRE>
_____________
\_______/
</PRE><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I know this was long, but I try to be thorough IM me if you need more info.


[Modified by PatrickGSR94, 4:17 PM 6/4/2002]

edit: finding typos, aren't you glad I proofread my posts? maybe I should do that before I hit the Post button


[Modified by PatrickGSR94, 4:20 PM 6/4/2002]