I read you're not supposed to let the fluid level get too low. Does this just apply to while bleeding? Because after changing all 4 calipers, it's almost empty from fluid leaking out etc. I'm about to leave now to finish up and bleed them. The brake pedal hasn't been touched since I started if that matters.

 

just top off and bleed. don't let the reservoir empty, if it does you will get air in it.


Modified by ithrowpoop at 1:23 PM 5/28/2007

 

My experience: Don't let the resovoir get empty or you will suck air into the brake system. When changing lines/ bleeding brakes, be very careful to make sure the resovoir in at least nearly full. I always check the resovoir level after bleeding each corner. You will see the air come through the bleeder tube if its there. Keep at it, (bleeding ) until there are no air bubbles. If you haven't pumped the pedal you should be ok to start the bleeding process.

 

spellcheck! reservoir!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by richardb53 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">spellcheck! reservoir! </TD></TR></TABLE>

is that better.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ithrowpoop &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just top off and bleed. don't let the reservoir empty, if it does you will get air in it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

and it doesnt matter which caliper you start with either.

 

i have heard to bleed them RR, LR, RF, LR and the opposite. i have always bled them from the rear first.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=925064


Modified by ithrowpoop at 2:44 PM 5/28/2007

 

I usually bleed them normally...but today I tried something a little different. I cracked the bleeder open and had my friend pump the brakes while keeping the bleeder open the whole time until the fluid coming out was blue (I used ATE Super Blue)instead of red and there were no air bubbles coming out. Then i closed it. So far so good. Pedal feels fine. I topped off the reservoir after each caliper.

One thing i noticed is that the rears seem to be "dragging" a bit. I put on new rotors...but the pads were fine so i didn't change pads. Could this be why? I'm assuming after a day or so it will go away. Any insight? I'll be posting pics in the next day or so...the Spoons look amazing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ithrowpoop &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have heard to bleed them RR, LR, RF, LR and the opposite. i have always bled them from the rear first.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=925064


Modified by ithrowpoop at 2:44 PM 5/28/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>


You have it backwards. You want to do the wheel closests to the master cylinder and so on.

So FL, FR, RL, RR

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by citrus3000psi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


You have it backwards. You want to do the wheel closests to the master cylinder and so on.

So FL, FR, RL, RR</TD></TR></TABLE>

+1, this is always how i've done it also.

 

Helms Suggests:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by citrus3000psi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

FL, FR, RR, RL</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by citrus3000psi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


You have it backwards. You want to do the wheel closests to the master cylinder and so on.

So FL, FR, RL, RR</TD></TR></TABLE>

incorrect info, u always start the farthest away from the m/c

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Donkey85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

incorrect info, u always start the farthest away from the m/c</TD></TR></TABLE>

double incorrect, it actually doesnt matter which one you start with.... try it the next time you bleed your brakes, then you will find out as i did....it really doesnt matter which one.

sometimes you just have to experiment which leads to new information instead of the status quote.

bah this argument will continue for ever!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL

 

Please stop with the wrong information!!!
If you don't know the CORRECT WAY to bleed brakes then don't POST IT! This **** needs to stop.

You always start FAR from the master cylinder.
RR, LR, RF,LF,

And do not press on the brake pedal all the way to the floor when bleeding. Or you could blow out the seals.

8 Year Honda Technician Here.
Thank you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18ek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Please stop with the wrong information!!!
If you don't know the CORRECT WAY to bleed brakes then don't POST IT! This **** needs to stop.

You always start FAR from the master cylinder.
RR, LR, RF,LF,

And do not press on the brake pedal all the way to the floor when bleeding. Or you could blow out the seals.

8 Year Honda Technician Here.
Thank you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

just a question, have you ever tried not following the proper procedure according to honda and seeing what the results were by bleeding any caliper and in no particular order?

and i dont mean on customer's cars , mainly on your own car. to see if indeed there is any difference from the helms and just picking any caliper you wanted and bleeding it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxSHOE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

just a question, have you ever tried not following the proper procedure according to honda and seeing what the results were by bleeding any caliper and in no particular order?

and i dont mean on customer's cars , mainly on your own car. to see if indeed there is any difference from the helms and just picking any caliper you wanted and bleeding it.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have tried it both ways. no difference. and yes on my own car and a few volvo's

 

B18ek- Thanx for the correct info that how its been done at my work

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18ek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You always start FAR from the master cylinder.
RR, LR, RF,LF,


8 Year Honda Technician Here.
Thank you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have done it in this order my whole life. I have also never heard anyone say "it doesn't matter which you start with". I will continue to bleed the way i have for years bc it has yet to fail me. To each their own

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18ek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You always start FAR from the master cylinder.
RR, LR, RF,LF</TD></TR></TABLE>

This way has always worked for me too

 

It really doenst matter as long as all the air is out.

And those debating if you start from the farthest away or the closest to the MC, It all depends......

on which year Honda manual you have.

 

When I bled them last weekend I did FR, FL, RR, RL. It worked fine. All I need to di is adjust the parking brake for the new rotors.