Alright... This just started happening like 2 days ago, I searched but nothing came up.

When I'm in 2nd gear the at lets say 3000 RPM and I go to WOT smoothly. The tach rises fast and everyonce in a while the tach will jump or get stuck for a micro/mill second. It doesn;t seem to evident when the tach is moving up slowly like in 4th or 5th gear.

It only happens above 6k....

The car sometimes seems to jerk slightly at lowp rpms when on and off the thottle.


Im guessing its a ground issue which im going to go look at now. But any insight would be helpful.

Thanks
-Dan

 

No reply's yet..ha everybody must be having a good memorial day.

Found some more info out. I swapped in new ground wires, tranny and valve cover. The jerkyness seems better but this might just be in my head. I feel like the jerkyness is a motor mount issue.

But the tach problem is still there. I did some more testing it seems to get stuck right at 6800 rpm and then jump right up to 7400 rpm. 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear result int he same problem. Its like the tach is almost getting stuck? So...how do I determine if this is a cluster or sensor problem?

I don't have any ITR's around me to swap clusters to see if its the actual guage.

So any ideas how to diagonose?

Thanks
-Dan

 

Those are the textbook signs of a bad coil/ICM.

Your dizzy FTL


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by citrus3000psi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't have any ITR's around me to swap clusters to see if its the actual guage.

-Dan</TD></TR></TABLE>

FYI: All Integra clusters will work, just make sure its the same ODB as your car. Or you'll just need to switch the green film.

 

Cap had corrison on the contacts. Cleaned off and as good as new. Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by citrus3000psi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cap had corrison on the contacts. Cleaned off and as good as new. Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is temporary. Go to the dealership and replace the rotor and cap. Corrosion will cause the contacts to pit and erode eventually leading to failure when you don't want it to happen. Even though you solved the problem, for future reference the problem could be a different ground, the ICM, the dizzy it's self, a failing alternator.

 

The stupid part is that this dizzy is new. Maybe 1000 miles on it. My OEM dizzy icm failed so I had to replace. I looked all over and came up with the conclusion to get a distrubtor king dizzy. Everybody that i read said they didn't have any issues.

So question becomes where do i get a cap and rotor. Im assuming that the cap and rotor off the OEM dizzy will not fit a distrubtor king dizzy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by citrus3000psi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The stupid part is that this dizzy is new. Maybe 1000 miles on it. My OEM dizzy icm failed so I had to replace. I looked all over and came up with the conclusion to get a distrubtor king dizzy. Everybody that i read said they didn't have any issues.

So question becomes where do i get a cap and rotor. Im assuming that the cap and rotor off the OEM dizzy will not fit a distrubtor king dizzy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you the same guy that was having problems with his dizzy that posted in another thread say...a week ago?

From what I have seen, several people have been having issues with Distributor King parts failing or intermittently failing. I would contact them immediately.

As far as parts swapping, the Distributor King stuff is simply refurbished OEM stuff if I'm not mistaken.

 

From your first post, I was going to say ICM. ICM can cause false sparks making the tachometer jump HIGHER than the actual speed of the engine.
From your 2nd post, where you say the tach is actually getting *stuck*, then it practically has to be the tachometer. The "sensor" is really the ICM, it's generating spark too so it can't lie on the low end.

I had a speedo start doing that, after having been driven for 10 years under 100 MPH, the first trip over 100 MPH it got stuck!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From what I have seen, several people have been having issues with Distributor King parts failing or intermittently failing. I would contact them immediately.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah...... probably a good idea. Too bad you already took the cap off, hope that doesn't change the outcome. Anyone else having issues? Are you really sure you have a distributor issue?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are you the same guy that was having problems with his dizzy that posted in another thread say...a week ago?

As far as parts swapping, the Distributor King stuff is simply refurbished OEM stuff if I'm not mistaken.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, I'm not the other guy. I had dizzy problems about 3 months ago.

The internals might be referbished but the casing is def not honda OEM.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah...... probably a good idea. Too bad you already took the cap off, hope that doesn't change the outcome. Anyone else having issues? Are you really sure you have a distributor issue?
</TD></TR></TABLE>


The speedo would get "stuck" and then jump. Almost like a loss of signal or getting stuck when it sweeps up. I never really paid attention to see if the tach would get stuck on the way back down.


But if you saw the contacts on the cap then you would relize that its the cap. The car run greats after cleaning the cap. No jerkyness and no stuck RPM gauge.