Alright, I was the noob that bought the Prelude that had the misfire problem a little bit... Well I changed the oil and plugs yesterday and its seemed to have gotten far less tempermental.... The thing sat in a garage for a year or so, and the oil was horrible, dirty and all gummed up... Today I gotta change the air filter (which too doesn't looked to have been changed in forever) and put the new spark plug wires on..

I haven't toyed with the throttle body or vacuum hoses to check for leaks yet... but after the oil was changed, the idle surge has mostly calmed down quite a bit....... I will bleed the coolant on Saturday when I'm off work and clean out the throttle body then too..

But here's what I found while driving yesterday.... That misfire thing it does only happens at a certain percentage of throttle input... Right at the beginning of the pedal stroke it will miss in every gear at the same throttle input... At every other throttle pedal position its just fine with no miss or anything and at WOT its plenty strong... This is my first Honda so I'm sure if they're like GM's at all, but could this be a problem with the TPS? Just a dirty throttle body, or still some bad vacuum lines? If anyone has opinions to help this noob out please let me know... I'm tryin not to sound too dumb here lol


Modified by Roca fella Bryan at 10:45 AM 5/25/2007

 

Does the check engine light come up?

Looks like you're going in the right direction. Try changing the distributor cap/rotor and plug wires. These are regular maintenance parts that fail over time, especially if it's been sitting for awhile.

 

Yeah the check engine light is still lit even after clearing the code by unplugging the battery for 30 seconds....

Fuel, Spark, Air.... its one of those things that needs to be addressed, but I just wish I could pull the code so maybe that could lead me in the right direction... Autozone only has OBD-II code readers so thats out..... I heard there's some other way to read the code, but I have no clue as to how to go about doing it...

Drove around pretty much all day today and its fine until that ONE part of the throttle stroke where it just stumbles momentarily. I normally just give it more throttle and its fine, but when I'm taking off from a stop during the one-two upshift... lol It stumbles and bucks pretty bad, making me look like a horrible driver lol

Any more suggestions are very well appreciated, and thanks man for yours

-Bryan

 

It sounds to me like it could be TPS related for sure. Wouldn't hurt to check it out, there is a way to test it and if it's bad you can get one from ebay for $40-50, but you have to Dremel the nuts that hold it on to get it off.

 

Clean the egr valve and egr metering ports. Also do a valve adjustment.

 

I'll withhold any opinions until you tell us what the check-engine codes are!

(I have had a bad TPS, it's acted similar to what you're describing, but who knows...)

 

Everyone's suggestions will be addressed and I'll update to let you all know how it's going....


And for the codes... I'd love to figure out what it is, its just finding a place that can apparently pull an OBD-I code...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Roca fella Bryan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And for the codes... I'd love to figure out what it is, its just finding a place that can apparently pull an OBD-I code...</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can check them yourselves.

1) From the driver's side, look behind the radio for this plug, it's probably clipped to the carpet or into a big rubber plug:



2) Then use a paperclip, short piece of wire, or spade connector to jump the two openings.

3) Turn your ignition to ON (do not start it), and watch the CEL light.

A long blink = 10
A short blink = 1
Count them and add them up to come up with a number.

There should be a longer pause between blinks when it's moving on to the next code (if you have more than one code).

Count them up until it repeats. Those are your codes. Then come back here and post the numbers you're coming up with.

 

there is a plug where you can put a paperclip in and turn the key over...watch the flashes this will tell you the code number.

Do a search and it will tell you exactly what do you....

Here is one i found.... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1110689

 

If thr oil was that bad, I would run some Seafoam in the crankcase a few times.

 

yeah thats good for the carbon build up but what if that carbon build up is preventing oil from seeping out of spots? i've seen a couple luders "washing" crankcase with seafoam only to have oil drip out of it in numurous places withen a few weeks. it works almost too good lol

id save seafoam for intake related. in know it all ends up in the same chambers but atleast not directly and completly concintrated

 

hey andy, was it any different vtec'ing your 4ws? compaired to regular si.

 

Yeah, went up to the Honda dealer to cop a TPS, and dude said I have to buy the entire throttle body because it all comes as one piece..... Then he proceeded to look me straight in the face and tell me that it was going to cost six-hundred-ten dollars like I actually had money like that to just throw down...


There's gotta be another way to get a TPS without buying the entire throttle body cause that's just crazy.... How did everyone else get their TPS on?

 

What's your CEL code?

If you think the TB is an issue, you can test it on the car with a voltmeter. Check the voltage closed and WOT. But it'd be a stupid thing to check unless you "calibrated" your TB once or you knew the code!

And yeah, honda/acura doesn't sell TPS sensors anymore.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> you can get one from ebay for $40-50, but you have to Dremel the nuts that hold it on to get it off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

to expand on Hawkze there, just get on ebay, search for Honda throttle sensor, and it should pull a bunch up, and honda/acura one will work, some will say jdm prelude etc. I got mine from hbhjunkman74 fast, great packing, perfect shape. As said, you will have to cut slots into the breakaway bolts that hold it on to undo it with a screwdriver, then either use those again or put in allen bolts like the jdm motors have.

 

Dude..its not the TPS. There would be more like a no throrrlte response if the TPS is bad. You probably have a AF mixture problem or a spark issue. Replace the sprak plugs, the cap/rotor and double check your ignition timing. ITs should probably be around 15degrees BTDC...i think..lol. Maybe do a fuel system cleaing, like injector cleaner. Might help.

 

OKay i just did it and counted up nine short blinks.... what's teh code?

edit: a nine code is apparently a CYP or cylinder sensor code... what is that?

Dammit I already ordered a TPS and now I find that the cylinder sensor actually tripped the code... So any ideas? Where is the cylinder sensor located so I can take a look at it?


Modified by Roca fella Bryan at 11:07 AM 5/28/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Roca fella Bryan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OKay i just did it and counted up nine short blinks.... what's teh code?

edit: a nine code is apparently a CYP or cylinder sensor code... what is that?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

CYP is in the Distriributor. It's a combined TDC/CKP/CYP sensor.

Borrow a Distributor to check it out or start replacing parts. Good luck.

 

I'm told it may be an ignition timing issue... So I'm gonna go pick up a distributor rotor from the parts store in a few minutes...

I drove it around after starting it cold and I had no issues... but as soon as it warms up, and I turn it off for a few moments to talk to some girl I saw walking her dog... I get back in the thing and it doesn't wanna start! (not the greatest way to pick up a girl either )... but we try rolling it backwards to jump start it and it doesn't do it, so we sit for a few minutes, turn the key and it starts... but now its back to the stutter problem where at some throttle inputs the damn thing doesn't get spark or fuel (one of two)...... and it was doing it so bad that at idle it would threaten to shut down unless you put your foot into the throttle like a raging ricer while driving around my neighborhood trying to keep the damn thing alive...

If anyone's got any suggestions about this "CYP" cylinder sensor, where it's located, what it does, and what this could mean for the car... Please let me know.... Everyone's help this far has been greatly appreciated..

-Bryan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Roca fella Bryan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If anyone's got any suggestions about this "CYP" cylinder sensor, where it's located, what it does, and what this could mean for the car... Please let me know.... Everyone's help this far has been greatly appreciated..

-Bryan</TD></TR></TABLE>

(one post up!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

CYP is in the Distriributor. It's a combined TDC/CKP/CYP sensor.

Borrow a Distributor to check it out or start replacing parts. Good luck.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Check the distributor like they said, but I am willing to bet money that the reason it didnt crank after running when you stoped to talk to girl was due to the main relay...these are natorious for going out in the preludes and they do it when it gets hot...

 

My vote is change the distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs, check the wires resistance, they should be less than 15ohms I believe. Also change the oil again after the car is hot. If it was really that nasty you'll want to do this. You may want to use a tube and pump to get what is on the bottom of the oil pan as well. Also seafoam the engine, run 1/3 of a can through the brake booster, follow directions on the can. Clean out your intake manifold and throttle body too when you put a new air filter on. Cheers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Roca fella Bryan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I drove it around after starting it cold and I had no issues... but as soon as it warms up, and I turn it off for a few moments to talk to some girl I saw walking her dog... I get back in the thing and it doesn't wanna start! (not the greatest way to pick up a girl either )... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Buhaha! Sorry, that's some pretty bad luck!

I had a similar problem like yours awhile back. The car wouldn't start at random times, especially when driven for awhile. We chased it down to the ignitor in the distributor. They tend to go bad after time as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typeS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My vote is change the distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs, check the wires resistance, they should be less than 15ohms I believe. Also change the oil again after the car is hot. If it was really that nasty you'll want to do this. You may want to use a tube and pump to get what is on the bottom of the oil pan as well. Also seafoam the engine, run 1/3 of a can through the brake booster, follow directions on the can. Clean out your intake manifold and throttle body too when you put a new air filter on. Cheers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

But none of that fixes a CYP sensor?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Finest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a similar problem like yours awhile back. The car wouldn't start at random times, especially when driven for awhile. We chased it down to the ignitor in the distributor. They tend to go bad after time as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Indeed Killed my Sunday last weekend.