I have come to the conclusion that my write up, as well as many others on the JDM front end on a CRX/EF Civic headlight wiring are incorrect, and in fact dangerous! I have been experiencing a problem with melting the housings on my headlights... But only when I run with the high beams... Well I looked to my wiring... How every write up says to do this (including the one I did here: http://www.efsource.net/tech/EF8FrontUSBumpSpt.php) says to cut off the 9006 connectors and splice the proper colors together... The problem with this is that the H4H as we know is a dual filament bulb... So when you do the wiring as the write ups tell you, its actually lighting up both filaments at the same time when the brights are on... Now whats wrong with this is it gets EXTREMELY hot and melts wires and it melts the connectors... This is why so many people have problems with the JDM H4H wiring... This is just my theory anyways... So I am trying to correct this problem so that I can have high beams SAFELY as Honda intended...

So why did I post this in the tech section? Well because I suck when it comes to reading wiring schematics and relays... I know the basics... But can anyone help me figure the proper way to wire in a relay so that when you flip on the brights, it cuts power to the low beam wire? Therefore causing you to not be running both + wires at one time...

Any help is appreciated... So far I have not found anything of help on this subject...

 

You should be able to accomplish this using a standard SPDT relay or a SPST normally closed relay. If using the SPDT (which has 5 tabs) what you'd want to do is this:

- Tap into the high beam (+) wire and connect to tab 86.
- Run a ground wire from the chassis to tab 85.
- Connect the (+) lead from your original 9006 low beams to tab 30.
- Connect the (+) input wire for the new H4H low beams to tab 87a.
- Tape-off tab 87.

With the high beams off, the circuit would look like this, and the low beams would function normally:



When power was applied to the relay from the wire tapped into the high beams, the circuit would open and the low beam would switch off:



The process is essentially the same if you're using an SPST normally closed relay, except for the fact that there would only be 4 tabs, and you would connect the (+) input for your H4H low beams to tab 87 since there will not be a tab 87a:



Hope this helps.

 

Yea it helps alot... Thanks man! Exactly what I was looking for!