Ok, so my my parents have a bone stock 1990 Accord LX (the lesser sibling of my EX ^_^) and intermittently it is cranking but not starting. This usually happens after the car has been sitting for several hours and is "hot" according to my dad. So basically when it's been sitting in the sun, but I'm not so sure if that has anything to do with it. To the question, is this most likely the igniter? I figure it has something to do with the "spark system" (for lack of the brain power to use the proper term) because the car runs just fine once it actually fires up.

My thoughts are either the igniter, the ignition coil, or possibly the ignition switch. I wanted to get some more experienced input as I have never had this problem with my car. For some reason my parents' 94 Prelude does the same thing, both have an F22 in them. Can anyone confirm my igniter suspicion or point me in the right direction? Thanks!


Modified by Trumpster at 4:19 AM 5/25/2007

 

I got the same problem on my 92 integra long time ago, and it was the main relay I change once, and one year later again the same problem but on this time I fixed my self and i got no more problem with that.
is kind of easy to fix.
Here is how to fix it if you want to do that

 

How to solder and fix the Main Relay.

Introduction: The Honda or Acura turns over but won't start in hot weather is a symptom of a main relay going bad. This is the result of the poor solder application from the factory. As a consequence, raise areas on the joint indicate a "dry joint" which can lead to an open circuit. The dry, open circuit is the main cause of no start. This is partly caused by the buildup of heat on the terminals which expand, contract and subject to vibrations. It is likely that a layer of hard oxide has built up inside the solder joint. The layer of hard oxide has to be removed by desoldering. Other than this, there are no known mechanical problem with the main relay.



If you've suspected that the main relay is your problem, follow steps A thru C. Or if your car is over 8 years old, you may skip directly to step B.
Step A) Diagnose the problem by using your sense of sight, smell and sound. This can be done by following the main relay basic troubleshooting below, usually performed when the car won't start.

Step B) Once confirmed that the main relay is dead, remove the main relay and desolder the weak joints and apply a fresh rosin core solder. The instruction on how to do this can be found below. Or if you like other options see Solutions.html

Step C) Finally, install the main relay and test drive the car. The car should start and idle on even the hottest day.


For this repair project you will need a main relay and a set of proper tools:
Where can I find the MainRelay?
Honda/Acura Acura Honda/Acura


a 15-30 watt soldering iron (or 600F - 700F) *
a Rosin core solder (Rosin is less corrosive) and
a solder wick (copper braid) (wicks/braids are bit tedious and usually wasteful on large jobs, but the wick is a good choice for this project.) or
a Desoldering pump (usually requires many attempts) or
a Desoldering iron (simple to use, How to use, see step 1.)



Start by carefully prying the main relay:

Clip-----> Stick a flat small flat screw driver in the crack.



Separation Steps: What to look for:

Fig. 12

Stick a small flat head screw driver in between the wall flap (a clip) and the relay base.
Do not go in too deep. Pry it open just slightly.
While holding it still, use the same screw driver, pry the other side.
While holding it still (and cleared of the locking edge) pull the relay straight out, or forward.
Installation is reverse of the procedure (Note: The main relay will only go in one way into the housing.)
Note: Do not stick the screw driver too deep inside. You may damage the relay's mechanical or electrical parts.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Fig. 4

The image above shows one good and several bad examples. More soldering examples (external link.)

Examples:

The amount of solder (before) is too little. The joint (before) is a cold solder joint.

CAUTION:

Try not to heat the joint too long with a 40 Watt or above soldering gun, because the copper traces on the circuit board may lift.

Health warning:

Do not over expose your lungs or eyes to the fumes. Wash hands with soap and water after handling the PCB's and leads.



Desolder the inadequate terminal (1) and the faulty terminal (2).
(same as fig. 12 above.)


Desolder using a pump Desolder using a wick






Desoldering using a desoldering iron. ↓

1.) Press and hold the air vacuum bulb. Apply the desoldering iron tip so that the terminal penetrates within its orifice.
2.) When the solder liquefies, start gently to rotate the desoldering tip so that the component’s terminal can be eased away from the sides.
3.) Release the air vacuum bulb just long enough to suck the solder.


Note: If any solder remains are left on any terminal after attempting to desolder it, resolder it with fresh solder and repeat the desoldering process.

A clean removal should look like this:





Heat the terminal and the copper trace with the iron tip while applying the rosin core solder to the terminal.






If you do have a joint which looks in need of rework don't be tempted to just reapply the iron. This is unlikely to succeed as the solder in place will have no flux in it, so the flow across the joint will be worse than when it was first made. Better to remove the solder, using a desoldering pump or copper braid, and make the joint again. The flux's job is to strip away all of the grease from the surfaces to be soldered, thus ensuring that the solder will flow properly. A concave should be formed with an angle of 40 and 70° from the horizontal. †

Click here if you still have trouble creating a perfect joint.

A good solder job should look like this:







Clean with steel wool, inspect for imperfections then use a conformal coating material. Conformal coating enhances performance, improves electrical stability as well as accidental shorts and thermal shock. Their ingredients include varnish, epoxy, parylene, polyurethane, silicone, acrylics, or lacquer. Coatings are applied in a liquid form; when dry, they exhibit characteristics that improve reliability. These characteristics are:

Heat conductivity to carry heat away from components

Hardness and strength to support and protect components

Electrical insulation to preventing accidental shorts

Low moisture absorption

Prevents oxidation * tip: If your Honda digital clock currently works, now is a good time to protect it with conformal coating.

To remove the conformal coatings simply use acetone.








Install onto the vehicle in a lower, practical location*, easily accessible in the future. Your work is done.

See all locations >>

 

hey I dont know why doest show the pictures but I got the link for the page but I dont know is I am allowe to post it.
Anyways I can give you if you need it just let me know ok

 

Sweet. That's some good info. Thanks for that. Perhaps I'll just buy another relay and pop it in there and see if that works since relays are only a couple bucks. Any other thoughts?

 

My cousin had a problem similar in his 93 EX. Turned out to be a fuel pump.

Then my 90 EX had a wiring problem with the alarm that did the same thing.

 

I have a 94 Prelude that is having almost the same problem. But, in my case, the car doesn't even crank when it's hot out. When the starter cranks (usually only when it's cold) the car starts, idles, and runs just fine. Could this also be the main relay?

 

I have a 94 Prelude that is having almost the same problem. But, in my case, the car doesn't even crank when it's hot out. When the starter cranks (usually only when it's cold) the car starts, idles, and runs just fine. Could this also be the main relay?

 

Thanks to those that posted this problem as being caused by the main relay. I didn't have time to replace the main relay myself, so I took my 94 Prelude to my shop. Since my starting problem was intermittent, it was tough for the shop to diagnose it. I told them that I heard it was the main relay on this forum and they were able to determine much quicker that this was in fact the cause. So, we honed in to the problem MUCH faster and it saved me a lot of money! The car starts like a champ every time now, with no hesitation. Thanks all.