i have recently replaced both of my lower ball joints as well as my pass. side bearing b/c it didnt not have a seal on it, i new it had been loosing grease for who knows how long and i had a problem with that side wobbeling, well now i believe its one of my tie rods, anytime i hit a lil bump or man hole cover it wobbles still, if im going 40+ maybe even 35 it shakes slightly, my steering wheel wobbles as well, if im going 60-70 it shakes fiercly, when i going more than 80 it doesnt seem to do as bad(i know its still not good to ride like that/), also when hold my wheel straight, the wheel itself is crooked, and if im sitting still i can move my steerin wheel back and forth(not even an 1/8 of a turn the wheels themself are still)and hear a knocking sound to the right side. im gonna put it on stands and look at it tomorrow, i guess if the outer moves around thats it but how can i tell if its the inner or both?

 

im 100% sure you need to replace your steering rack end bushing.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1117870

you may very well have to replace a balljoint too. diagnose your tie rods by vigorously shaking the tie rod and/or wheel and feeling for play with your hand over the ball joint. if the steering rack accordian boots are torn, its likely your inner tie rod needs replacement too.

 

LOL, before you go to all that trouble, spend $10 and get your tires balanced

 

what im concerned with is the "fierce" and audible shake of the suspension.

an unbalanced wheel is not going to cause that. it will initiate the movement, but its not in itself cause for my concern. and isnt related to his other complaints.

 

go get an alignment...i wouldnt drive around with messed up suspension dude

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnnieChimpo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL, before you go to all that trouble, spend $10 and get your tires balanced </TD></TR></TABLE> i have taken it to the tire specialist i usually use to fix one of my tires, he would have suggested it if i needed balancing, he told me i needed to start looking at my tie rods since i've replaced the lower bjs and after i replaced the bearing like i planned
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im 100% sure you need to replace your steering rack end bushing.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1117870

you may very well have to replace a balljoint too. diagnose your tie rods by vigorously shaking the tie rod and/or wheel and feeling for play with your hand over the ball joint. if the steering rack accordian boots are torn, its likely your inner tie rod needs replacement too. </TD></TR></TABLE>
which ball joint do you mean? i've replaced both lower bjs, im about to go check out my steering components while i rotate my tires,

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skipper75 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go get an alignment...i wouldnt drive around with messed up suspension dude</TD></TR></TABLE>

i plan on it as soon as i get all this fixed but i want to replace anything and everything thats causing this problem first so i dont have to purchase multiple alignments, my alignment doesnt seem to be too bad as it is, it stays fairly straight anyway.

 

theres a balljoint on each tie rod, outer and inner.

 

ok ur certain i need to replace that bushing you showed me? what do i ask for? also both of my accordian boots are separated and i can see what i guess is the inner tie rod, i know the joint on the outer is where it connects to the spindle, is the joint on the inner visible with that boot pulled back?

 

yeah, thats the inner tie rod.

and since the boots are torn, im 110% sure the steering rack end bushings needs to be replaced. and most likely your inner tie rod. you have to take off the passenger side inner tie rod off anyway to get to the rack end bushing.

 

ok after checking, the passenger side ball joint in the inner has play, the driver side doesnt, if both of the boots are ripped do i need to replace both immediately? is the steering rack bushing just on the passenger side? theres not another on the drivers side? im gonna be a lil low on money so i cant replace everything on both sides like i want to but would it be better to wait until i can replace both and have them done at the same time? i also plan on replacing brake pads and rotors after i get this fixed before i get an alignment.

 

im glad you know what to look for now and checked. i wonder tho if you properly distinguished between play due to the rack end bushing and play due to the inner tie rod. its quite possible both are in need of replacing of course.

yes, the rack end bushing is only on the passenger side. the driver side of the steering rack is held tightly by the gearbox and pinion. that ALSO needs to be adjusted, after you replaced the bushing. the instructions are in the thread i linked earlier.

so since youre replacing the passenger side inner tie rod, itll be the same amount of effort to replace the bushing.

i REALLY recommend dropping the steering rack completely in order to work on the steering rack. it just makes it a lot easier. ive tried it both ways.

youll definately need an alignment anyway after replacing your tie rods. youll have no frame of reference otherwise. actually, i recommend not even touching the driver side tie rod if you dont plan on replacing either the outer or inner tie rod. except to pop off the outer balljoint to remove the steering rack. this way you know that you only need to adjust the passenger side outer tie rod to set the toe SOMEWHAT back to where it was before. dont try to eyeball it. adjust and take a short drive, feel how the car wants to drift and correct. then go to the alignment shop asap.

 

i do believe the ball joint in the inner rod was moving as it played, i do plan on replacing both the bushing and the tie rod, i just wish i could do more before the alignment, if i wait till after replace the rod and bushing along w/ the alignment, and then replace my rotors and pad, would it throw off my alignm.?

 

brakes dont affect alignment. its fine if you do it after.

 

do i have to remove the shift linkage from the tranny to remove the rack? is it just the 4 bolts that u can see under the car and of course the outer rod to the spindle, or is there more to it?

 

i remove the shift linkage from the shift lever. i dont like dealing with the "bitch pin" while under the car.

you have to disconnect the pinion from the ujoint at the base of the steering column.

 

thats what i was worried about having to do, but i've decided since im doing this by myself, and i dont want to worry about my headers, im going to do it without dropping the rack, i think i need to wait and order my parts online from the dealership because i dont want to have to worry about that lock nut, its hard to get off w/o dropping the rack right? do i even have to disconnect the shift linkage?

 

you wont need to take off the shift linkage if you leave the rack in there. why do you keep asking abou the skift linkage....

take the swaybar out tho. one less thing to get in your way and not too difficult to remove. it will twist out with everything else still in place. just give it a try.

 

srry bout the bother w/ linkage but i changed my mind on taking the rack out......
i'll definately try that w/ the sway bar, i appreciate all ur help tyson.

 

on hondaautomotiveparts.com whats the difference between #23 and 24, dust seal a and dust seal b? and the inner tie rod that i need is #20 right?

 

left and right side boots are different. thus different part numbers.

yes, #20 is the inner tie rod. its the same on both sides, so one part number.

#10 is the rack end bushing.

dont forget #22, the lock washer.

 

yes i figured the inner rod was the same for both sides, just had to be sure though, which dust seal, 23 or 24 is for the passenger side, thats the only thing im not sure of, i got #10 and 22

 

well when i click on 24, it says "pinion side". so its 23.

 

ok thnx, too bad my credit card is pretty much maxed out right now, and its gonna be next week before my mom can help me out w/ her card, so i guess i'll have to put this off for now, i hate having to ride w/ my car like this but i guess since i'll have more money when i do this i can replace both sides, outer and inner. along w/ my brakes while im in there.

 

 

well i just finished replacing both the inner and the outer tie rods on my crx and to my surprise it wasn't as bad as it was made out to be. it sure took me long enough but i was taking my time anyway. when i got to the passenger side, i found that it wasn't too hard to unbend the lock washer just a little bit and wrench the joint off. i had planned on using crxbart's idea of drilling a hole through the holes were the tabs on the rack end bushing lock into place and push the bushing out with a wire or tube and the only thing i found in the rack end was one of the tabs broken from the old bushing, i dug around in it with a long narrow flathead and found nothing else, apparently i've been riding w/o a rack end bushing, no wonder it was SO bumpy. putting the new bushing in and everything else was a snap. the only thing i had trouble with was bending the new washers down, i'm gonna have Jo Jo my wheel and alignment guy look at those tomorrow when i get my alignment.

Thnx for all the help Tyson!!!!