I have been reading up on some compression vs. ignition timing threads but all of my info has left me to one last step.

Setting my timing!

which way would i need to rotate my distributor to retard the timing?
would it be rotating the top of the dizzy towards the firewall or towards the front of the car?

quick help would be nice so i could start adjusting the timing and go for some test drives

 

Adjusting your timing sans a timing light is pointless.

 

dont listen to that moron. timing your car via distributor is important when syncing the distributor timing to the timing in your ROM on the ECU.

say you have 16 degrees at idle in your rom. but your distributor isnt at 16 degrees your at 18 degrees. you have 2 degrees advanced which may not equal a whole lot but the bottom of the line it means your not truly running what your supposed to be running.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont listen to that moron. timing your car via distributor is important when syncing the distributor timing to the timing in your ROM on the ECU.

say you have 16 degrees at idle in your rom. but your distributor isnt at 16 degrees your at 18 degrees. you have 2 degrees advanced which may not equal a whole lot but the bottom of the line it means your not truly running what your supposed to be running.</TD></TR></TABLE>

suppose you have 16 degrees at idle in your rom but have like 12-13 at the dizzy,, take in account for the shaved head and block,and intake gear turned advance, would you still think its a problem?

 

from the way i understand it, its not going to be a problem. someone correct me if im wrong. its not necessarily a "have to" sync issue. but its good to know that it is sync'd. for example:
you have 16 degrees in your ROM at idle but your distributor is way advanced, lets just say 10 degrees. at idle your running 26 degrees.
now lets assume the same setting at idle but your ROM is reading 30 degrees in the upper RPM on your ROM. now your way high in the RPM range and this 10 degrees means instead of running 30 your running 40 degrees probably pinging badly and not hearing it because your motor is screaming.

 

From the sounds of it, he is not sync his timing up to a rom. Sounds like he just wants to adjust timing via the dizzy. I believe, to the firewall is retarded, and foward is advanced. You can move it when the car is idling, just loosen them, go for a nice smooth idle. How much compression are you running? I have a supposed 13.1 sohc, i run 110 though, with timing. Kinda pointless to raise your compression and then retard your timing. Personaly i think you should always sync up your timing to your computer. When your going for high compression, or high boost, you don't want any simple errors. Also, want to watch it when your running a y8 with obd I computers.

 

i think towards the firewall is retard,and towards the front is advance. just get a timing light to make sure its right.

 

Move it toward your self to reatrd, toward firewall is advance.

Very important to have your timing synced. Like 12nv said, its the only way your car will run properly. Too much advance or retard will cause bad consequences.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Natural Aspirations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Move it toward your self to reatrd, toward firewall is advance.

Very important to have your timing synced. Like 12nv said, its the only way your car will run properly. Too much advance or retard will cause bad consequences.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok i have an adjustable timing light/dwell meter

my setup is a b16a with a p72 head(i/h/e) and 11:1 wiseco pistons. I also am running ITR cams which in my opinion is a little under cam'd. I have a stock pr3 ecu.
What is the stock pr3 timing at Idle (approx 900 rpm)??
And with this setup would anyone recommend a little retard in timing running 91 octane?
or just sync to my ecu?

 

idle at 750 timing should be 16-17 deg btdc

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Natural Aspirations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">idle at 750 timing should be 16-17 deg btdc</TD></TR></TABLE>

cool...bump for more info/suggestions

retard/adavance?
how is my compression vs. 91 octane?
anymore input

 

You should only set the timing at the dist. Adjusting it should be done through ecu tuning.

 

Sync timing on distributor and ROM in the idle columns, then adjust timing via the software.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Natural Aspirations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">idle at 750 timing should be 16-17 deg btdc</TD></TR></TABLE>

750rpm no laod at normal operating temperature 16 degree + or - 2 degree. right around 16 deg.

 

ok i am currently trying to find some one to set me up with a VERY custom basemap for my pr3 since i really do not have the money to convert to obd1 and tune. I have a baby on the way and just need to get by for the next few months and save for a new place to live.

so soon i will be working (hopefully) with kenji, mtber, b19coupe, and whoever else wants to chime in and make the best "possible" basemap for my car. Sucks i really wanted to get to obd1 and make some dyno runs. Maybe i will just to see where my a/f ratio is and that will help with knowing where to add or subtract fuel on my basemap

 

turboedit is the only thing I know of that tunes obd0 ecu's.

I think you are stuck if you don't move up to OBD1.
I tell you what. I have an obd0 to obd1 jumper that is brand new never used that I have and paid like 90.00 for it.

I will sell it to you for 60.00 shipped to get it out of here. Comes with instructions.

http://www.pgmfi.org

 

For tuning or chipping an obd0 ECU I use BRE (ben's rom editor) also found on pgmfi.org. Has datalogging and realtime emulation and is very user friendly.

 

What if you have coil packs and a distriburtorless ignition

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidwestAutoWorks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What if you have coil packs and a distriburtorless ignition
</TD></TR></TABLE> Then you read the instructions. If you have a magnetic cam or crank pick-up you sync it to the ECU. "X" amount of teeth is "X" degrees, check it with a lite or Voltmeter. It is in the manual.

 

You can use BRE. Like b16crex said, it is very good editor.

Here's a link to my car tuned using BRE:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2000323

Another link to a car using BRE:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1583606&page=7

Move it toward the firewal to advance and toward the radiator to retard.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Then you read the instructions. If you have a magnetic cam or crank pick-up you sync it to the ECU. "X" amount of teeth is "X" degrees, check it with a lite or Voltmeter. It is in the manual.</TD></TR></TABLE>

should have mentioned and aem ems

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidwestAutoWorks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

should have mentioned and aem ems</TD></TR></TABLE>

You have to use some sort of pickup for the ECU to read cam and crank angle. Unless you are using a modified OEM distributor, you have to install a wheel/sensor on the crank, similar to the picture below.