im currently repainting my car, what brand clear coat do you recommend??

and how many coats are you guys applying?

 

no one?

 

I used a duplicolor clear for trucks/suvs. Leaves some room for error as it's a little thicker.

I used it on my trunk delete, but I need to do a final machine polish to get the 1200 grit wetsand back to original.

Can't beat duplicolor (for spray can **** that is)

edit: as for coats, thinner is better. I did a couple of thin coats, it turned out well.

 

PPG all the way!
Its all I use and I am completely satisfied with it. Wouldn't spray anything else.

 

spies hecker

 

I've used PPG, Dupont,BASF & others,ect. My preference for completes is BASF RM Diamont, the DC5300 rocks. It has a slightly longer cure time before it can be handled and buffed/ polished but it has an awesome gloss and it buffs easy for fresh paint. BASF also came out with DC5600, a newer different version thats pretty similar. I've sprayed it but I haven't used it as much as the 5300. The DC series is some quality UV protective shizznit. Cheaper type clears can look similar if sprayed out nice, heres a pic of a job I did with Shopline clear(lower cost)


Here is a pic of a job I did with the DC5300, a complete except for DR side door & QP

 

ppg!!!!!!!!!!!

 

DuPont HC7600 fast flash, low overspray
2-3 Coats

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WihaSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DuPont HC7600 fast flash, low overspray
2-3 Coats</TD></TR></TABLE>yeah of you can rock teh glamour clear from dupont or chroma clear

 

I used Limco and it worked great!

 

dupont 7779 thats all i use

 

glasurit, sikkens, chromaclear, and PPG DCU2021 (my fav to spray with medium - medium slow in Hawaii climate.)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2’z kuztoms &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ppg!!!!!!!!!!!




</TD></TR></TABLE>


PPG DC3010, very good tough clear. resist rock chip very well. the downside to them is that they are extremely difficult to buff.

 

ppg stands for peels pretty good

 

i crop dusted

 

take some 40 grit and some laquer thinner to scrub it and then just spray itll look great

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondahasnohorsey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take some 40 grit and some laquer thinner to scrub it and then just spray itll look great</TD></TR></TABLE>

40 grit?? thatd be stupid. nothing was sanded under 200

take your uselessness elsewhere

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondahasnohorsey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ppg stands for peels pretty good</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I bet you haven't even painted anything other than spray paint Loser

 

First of all I can tell there are several things you need to but don't know about not only painting but all the surface preparation required before attempting to paint. ( No offense ). Its not always about what clear or how or much of it is sprayed. I've sprayed almost every clear out there and I can make Shop Line JC661 High gloss multi panel clear look just as good as most of the expensive clears. Why is this? First of all when applying clear over base if your base isn't sprayed correctly the clear wont look good no matter how much it costs. If your base coat isn't sprayed at the right psi, correct reducer for the temperature your spraying in, waiting proper time in between coats(of anything) or Isn't sprayed evenly and isn't laid down nice and smooth your clear once cured won't be smooth either. If you took a piece of smooth printer paper and a piece of 80 grit sand paper & cleared them both which one do you think will be smoother and take less clear which means less chance of runs & saves on expensive material. A few tips, WHEN SANDING & PREPPING YOU CAN'T SAND A SURFACE WITH 240 THEN SAND IT WITH 600. You must step your sand paper up in roughly 100 grit increments, for example 80-180-240-320-400-600-800-1000-1200-1500-2000. Why do you think they have assorted packs of sand paper with 80-180-240-320-400 in one pack? Never spray base coat on any surface that isn't sanded with 600-800 grit (wet or dry sanded). always use a good wax 7 grease remover to clean your surface but dry it as you clean it. Don't let it dry on its own on the surface you are about to spray and always clean your surfaces very well before you start sanding or scuffing, once again after you sand and once again once its all papered up and ready to spray. Have good filtered air flow. (even if it's a furnace blower with a furnace filter or two. Use a blow gun to blow off your surface and any surrounding areas then wet your floor down and blow off your surface again using a tack rag and if your picky like me use the tack rag on the paper or plastic around the surface you are painting and even tack off your paint suit including the arm you are spraying with. The air going into your paint gun and blow gun must be clean and dry. If you got water or moisture in your air your clear isn't gonna be clear, you could have problems with your paint not sticking well and/or fish eyes in your paint job. I recommend at least using a SHARPE 808A, 606 or both or similar filters. The farther away from your compressor your filters are the better. This gives the air time to cool down and having less moisture. Also a water trap with drain in your compressor line before your filters & if you can afford it an air dryer. If you go go to sharpe website they have diagram of what your air line, water trap, air dryer and filter set up should look like. DON'T FREAK OUT. It doesn't have to be exactly like that or have all those things to do a good job. If you have common sense & a little creativity and spend some time at the hardware store and online looking for deals on filters you can make a air line set up that will give you good clean dry air to do quality work for a lot less than you think. The more common sense & the more time you put in the less it will cost. My shop is proof. I am ASE GOLD CLASS CERTIFIED, A.S.E CERTIFIED, and certified through PPG and Dupont to do lifetime guarantee work, been to Duponts training center for two weeks in Llyonsville Pennsylvania outside Philly as well as the PPG training center in Columbus Ohio, as well as several customizing and custom paint classes. I worked for the highest quality collision shop in the state for over 5 years until I had all my certifications and journey mans license and been doing it on my own for last 6 years. Any one who could use some info or tips on how to do quality work or any one trying to start up they're own shop, big or small email me at jdubb6624@yahoo.com I would gladly help out any fellow painter for free any way I can. I hope this helps.

 

have you ever done this before ? and do you have a good place to do it? (you'll need a good, clean and dry air supply that can keep up with a hvlp gun.)

also, what does your budget look like ?