....And I'm sure you all were thinking I was talking about a jig to cut the individual peices.

I made this jig because it's always insanely awkward to cut the end of the collector at the perfect angle, and to get the saw to hold it securly enough not to kill my blade if it slips. All I have to do is bolt in a tacked collector (RLD BTW ) line it up with the blade, and let her cut. perfect everytime.





For Tony1 ...(I'm going to port the flange to match the el. In fact I'm getting some T3 flanges CNC'd to match. Ideally, this is a T4/V band manifold, but I'm sure some customers are going to want a T3 flange. RLD's collector won't fit a 2" el well enough to utilize it.)

Enjoi.

 

What's the i.d. of that 90 at the flange? What's the i.d. of a 2" piece?

Your welding looks like it's come a long way though.

 

Seems to me it would make a lot more sense to just cut the collector right the first time.

 

The 2.5" is just under 2.5"
The 2" is just a tad over 2"

If I can find a 5" collector that has roughly a round outlet when cut at 2" I'll definetly use it with the T3 flange setups. RLD's collector is just about the perfect angle for 2.5", which is why I use it. I'm sure I could come up with something on my own to cut the collectors...I just hate cutting them myself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dave@passenger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Seems to me it would make a lot more sense to just cut the collector right the first time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you mean, that you can form a collector so the outlet is perfectly flat...without cutting the end off?

Interesting...Because thats not possible.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostwerks.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you mean, that you can form a collector so the outlet is perfectly flat...without cutting the end off?

Interesting...Because thats not possible. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually it is I do it fairly often,

T3 version (rectangular port) 1.25" sch40







You just simply cut the collectors' angle of the bottom first, then do your slash cuts, I don't know why most people don't do this, its the first step IMO, but I also wonder why most people make their t3 and t4 collectors in a circle shape instead of a rectangle as well.

 

...wait a minute. I just said that it isn't possible to do without cutting the end...and sure enough...you cut the end. you simply do it before you tack it together.

so how is your method beneficial?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostwerks.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...wait a minute. I just said that it isn't possible to do without cutting the end...and sure enough...you cut the end. you simply do it before you tack it together.

so how is your method beneficial? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Because I don't have to make ANOTHER specific jig to cut the ends, and I don't have to tack anything together before I tack it. All the collectors and collector jigs I make allow me to make this cut first and the other two cuts without repositioning the pipe, I reposition the jig in the vice instead, and I cut them all on a mill, I am **** and I like my stuff to fit oh so nice. Machined surfaces are just really nice to work with

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dave@passenger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Because I don't have to make ANOTHER specific jig to cut the ends, and I don't have to tack anything together before I tack it. All the collectors and collector jigs I make allow me to make this cut first and the other two cuts without repositioning the pipe, I reposition the jig in the vice instead, and I cut them all on a mill, I am **** and I like my stuff to fit oh so nice. Machined surfaces are just really nice to work with </TD></TR></TABLE>

I hear ya.

I just don't cut my own collectors...

I was cutting them for a while, but my harbor freight special can only cut so good. It also takes for f'ing ever, and cuts down on blade life. In the end it's just more beneficial for me to outsource this part of the manifold.

 

Yeah I used to cut my collectors on a bandsaw too, before I had a mill, for cutting collectors on a regular basis I would only want to do them on a mill or a cold cut saw, but the jigs I have for the mill are so nice and easy that its pretty hard to beat. I sure should have spun the pieces I pictured here in a lathe though to cut the bevels on the ends though before I milled the surfaces... Oh well live and learn.

 

let's see your jig dave!

 

i also have a harbor freight special all you need is a quality blade, i use to buy RIDGID carbon steel blades at home depot but any little snag while cutting and the blade would break ... i switched to a Aggressor bi-metal blade from enco tools and its a night & day difference the aggressor blade is a lot thicker it cuts faster, last longer and if it snags it just falls of the wheel .

I'm not implying that a band-saw is equal to a mill for cutting collectors just saying that the HF band-saw is not that bad.

 

My HF bandsaw cuts just fine even though I wish I had a mill, it's all about the jig and the quality of the blade. I got my blade from mcmaster and it rules! It took me awhile to come up with my jig which only required 6 cuts totaly to complete a collector.

 

You guys that can successfully cut with the HF bandsaws need to post instructions on your setups in a new thread. I can't for the life of me keep the damn blade on the wheels. 1/4 of the way through a cut, it will pop off. I then have to turn off the machine, open the door, loosen the tensioner, refit the blade, retension & then close the door ... only to have it happen again 3 minutes later.

Edit: This is with a high quality ENCO tri-metal blade.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FastCougar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You guys that can successfully cut with the HF bandsaws need to post instructions on your setups in a new thread. I can't for the life of me keep the damn blade on the wheels. 1/4 of the way through a cut, it will pop off. I then have to turn off the machine, open the door, loosen the tensioner, refit the blade, retension & then close the door ... only to have it happen again 3 minutes later.

Edit: This is with a high quality ENCO tri-metal blade.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like you need to angle the top wheel (top when vertical). Just tighten or loosen the bolt on the bottom of the adjusting plate, which will center the blade on the wheels. Get the blade so just the teeth are hanging off the edge of the wheel.


I'm also using the variable tooth blade made by Morse. It works wonderfully...and makes great straight cuts. However...It's still not enough for me to be comfortable cutting my own collectors. We're getting an additional bandsaw where I work, so I'll probubly build a jig to cut them there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by weiRtech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">let's see your jig dave!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll work on it, I don't own a digital camera, so I have to get a buddy to take them for me. I know what is a guy with a cnc mill doing without camera etc, I just don't care a whole lot.

 

saying you dont own a digital camera is like saying you dont own a cell phone nice try.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboSI56 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">saying you dont own a digital camera is like saying you dont own a cell phone nice try.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll try and remember to get some pics of my cell phone too, its not a flip phone, there is no camera on it, color screen, calculator etc, I hate all that crap.

 

99.5% of cell phone pictures suck I rather not see one.

 

I wouldn't mind seeing some peoples HF bandsaw jigs. I posted mine a while back, but I want to do a redesign because I am searching for more accuracy.

Some of you mentioned having good results on the HF saw, so post up your jigs, maybe I can get some ideas on making mine better.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostwerks.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like you need to angle the top wheel (top when vertical). Just tighten or loosen the bolt on the bottom of the adjusting plate, which will center the blade on the wheels. Get the blade so just the teeth are hanging off the edge of the wheel. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the advice, I will have to play around with that adjustment bolt and let you know how it works out.