I've been looking at possibly getting a 94-95 accord coupe again, or a civic hatch. It's been a while (and a few cars) since i've owned a honda. My accord was probably the most fun car i ever owned. Also the cheapest and oldest... go figure. Anyway i have my money tied up in other places right now so i dont want to spend a lot right away.

I'm not concerned about quarter times, i'd much rather fling my car around the twisties.

I much prefer N/A to forced induction. I like more free reving engines, not to mention i like the noise a bit better.

I'm thinking about going with an H22 or F20. But i'm concerned that by the time i get the motor putting out 220-240whp i'll have spent enough money that i could've just done a K series swap. Wanted to know what my options were and what i was looking at spending. I dont want to run something with a super high compression ratio either. I want a somewhat civil engine. Am i being realistic? The emphasis for me is on a high/free revving engine. I think 250 is more than enough power for most FWD cars. The rest of the money will go into suspension and weight distribution work, as well as a nice set of active components and an IB substage.

I saw The Birdman's whip, and it made my pants tighten, fap fap. Any advice would be very much appreciated.

I was just going to buy a ducati monster s4r.... but the woman shot that down. She most not love me.

Thanks guys!

 

bump

 

My opinion, who gives a rats *** how high it revs? Higher revs don't mean more power bro.

 

i'm very aware that power usually drops off earlier in the rev range than the limit itself. i just happen to like very free and high revving engines. if i was only concerned with power i would just go forced induction.

 

If you want high revs get a B-series engine
If you want some power look into an H2B

However if you get another accord you are pretty much limited to an H22/F20B or a K-swap.

Check out this link on the H2B:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1638988

Would give you good torque and nice numbers on a stock reliable setup.

 

Brilliant, thank you. I'm pretty sure that i dont want to go with a B series engine. It's looking like the H so far. Can you give me any insight to where i might look for more information on the individual throttle body's for the block? I searched but didn't have much luck.

 

Whatever you do, look into gearing. We sell Final Drives for the H series tranny's and will greatly improve your acceleration.

 

should i go that route i will. i dont plan on buying the vehicle until august. and then i will just use whatever money i have laying around week by week.

 

If you can affford it then I would swap in:

Sleeve a '98+ H22 block
F23 crank (97mm)
89mm H22 pistons w/ CH of 1.18" and ~3 cc dome
Euro-R intake manifold w/ TB
Jun Cams and VT (like 3 sets in the Prelude forum FS/FT thread)
440 injectors

then work on an M2F4/T2T4 gearbox with 4.5 final drive and Quaife.
Getting a light weight clutch will facilitate quick shifts.

That will get you a 240-250whp 2.4 liter with gobs of midrange torque that's very useful for digging out of those tight turns.

Pirate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you can affford it then I would swap in:

Sleeve a '98+ H22 block
F23 crank (97mm)
89mm H22 pistons w/ CH of 1.18" and ~3 cc dome
Euro-R intake manifold w/ TB
Jun Cams and VT (like 3 sets in the Prelude forum FS/FT thread)
440 injectors

then work on an M2F4/T2T4 gearbox with 4.5 final drive and Quaife.
Getting a light weight clutch will facilitate quick shifts.

That will get you a 240-250whp 2.4 liter with gobs of midrange torque that's very useful for digging out of those tight turns.

Pirate
</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is a possiblity, although i'm not sure i want to stroke the motor.

 

Suit yourself. Torqueless roadcourse c ars are usually better with a lighter chassis then. Get a CRX with H2B.

Pirate

 

What do you think about a K swap? How much more money would i be looking at for around the same goals?

 

i dont even know if the k will fit in the accord.if it can it will be alot of money. the h is pretty much a drop in.the money you save put to your power goal.search for some h dyno's they put down some strong #'s

 

I'd say get the F20B especially if you use your car in the twists. It's a high reving motor that will allow you to stay in your powerband. Also it's tranny is nice and tightly geared. The motor is quite expensive however, and is basically a destroked H22A. I would say go with this over a B series for the added displacement. Also I've heard stories of people putting F20B's to over 300whp n/a on 4 different continents. I've yet to track any of these people down, but hell tracking down anyone with a F20B is hard enough.

 

I hear its not running the composite sleeves either. Which is a plus in my book. I had thought about one of these motors before, but had heard of various issues with them so i shied away. Although its been so long, i can't for the life of me remember the research i did.

 

Correct it has iron sleeves. What issues have you heard?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94Vtecluder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Correct it has iron sleeves. What issues have you heard?</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://board.accordtuner.com/showthread.php?t=4280

haha, read the 12th post down, sound familiar?



Anyway, right now i can't find the thread. It was a while ago, and i dont remember the specifics. I'm sure it wasn't anything that couldn't be delt with.

The thing thats getting me right now though, is the price. It would probably be best to just go with a k or h. If i find one for a good price, and the time is right, i might decide to give it the go-ahead.

I also might decide on a sex change though, who knows.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4g hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont even know if the k will fit in the accord.if it can it will be alot of money. the h is pretty much a drop in.the money you save put to your power goal.search for some h dyno's they put down some strong #'s</TD></TR></TABLE>

Honda tuning put a K24? into a 94-97 accord chassis a few issues ago. It is possible.
Cost effective: ?????? but possible

Some H blocks came factory with closed decks though and that is also a plus. Mahle has pistons for the FRM sleeves but I see they have had mixed results.

The H has been tearing it up for many chassis's recently and has finally found its value for us enthusiasts

As far as high revving? H22/F20 aren't the best. Pretty much only rev them as high as your making power so some dyno time should be able to tell you where that is.

Good luck on your journey.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sauceja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Honda tuning put a K24? into a 94-97 accord chassis a few issues ago. It is possible.
Cost effective: ?????? but possible

Some H blocks came factory with closed decks though and that is also a plus. Mahle has pistons for the FRM sleeves but I see they have had mixed results.

The H has been tearing it up for many chassis's recently and has finally found its value for us enthusiasts

As far as high revving? H22/F20 aren't the best. Pretty much only rev them as high as your making power so some dyno time should be able to tell you where that is.

Good luck on your journey.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think i'll probably end up sleeving it anyway, so i'm not toooo worried about that. But its looking like an H so far. Unless i can find a totaled rsx type s or tsx for dirt cheap.

And thank you

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sex Cells &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brilliant, thank you. I'm pretty sure that i dont want to go with a B series engine. It's looking like the H so far. Can you give me any insight to where i might look for more information on the individual throttle body's for the block? I searched but didn't have much luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I really don't think mounting itb's to your block is gonna make any power.
Btw h2b for the win.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sex Cells &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think i'll probably end up sleeving it anyway, so i'm not toooo worried about that. But its looking like an H so far. Unless i can find a totaled rsx type s or tsx for dirt cheap.

And thank you </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why are you sleeving? Plan on going turbo? The F20B has iron sleeves and you could save money there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cindy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I really don't think mounting itb's to your block is gonna make any power.
Btw h2b for the win. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I was more or less under the impression that it might make my motor more responsive. Power is not my prime concern.

I'm not without doubts in my logic though, which is why i decided to make a thread and get input. Thank you for yours.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94Vtecluder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why are you sleeving? Plan on going turbo? The F20B has iron sleeves and you could save money there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've thought about the possibility of using this motor for something else in the future. My friend put a 450hp 350 in a fiero, i figured i might use this motor in an MR2 or something along those lines. Of course that would be quite a ways off, i have neither the liquid assets nor the know how to properly execute a build like that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sex Cells &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was more or less under the impression that it might make my motor more responsive. Power is not my prime concern.

I'm not without doubts in my logic though, which is why i decided to make a thread and get input. Thank you for yours.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I should have made myself more clear. You don't mount your itb's to you block. They bolt up to your head.

 

i was actually going to replace my spoiler with them.

but if i did decide to bolt them to the head, what would the advantages be?

 

i see