My Timing Problem
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: San Francisco, CA
My Timing Problem
Sorry to write so much, but i just wan to present a clear picture of my problem,
Need help ASAP!
I got a 91 dx, it used to run like a champ, it was perfect, never had a single problem with a motor. About 7 months ago, i noticed my timing belt was way over due, so i got my local mechaninc to replase it. So everythging started from there... Car didnt wanna pull as hard as it used to, it really was out of power and sometimes wierdly enought it was kicking in after 3200, like it was getting louder and felt like it was spinning faster. So at the same time it didnt wanna go past 140 km/h, when before the belt change it was no problem. And when i was going 140+ my engine light would come on and it gave me o2 code...
I replased the o2 the first time but the codes didnt go away, every time i reset the ECU same picture after i go that fast on the ring road.
So i took it to the shop(mechanic that did the belt didnt even wanna look at it, he turned to be an *******...), so at the shop they said that dizzy was off and they fixed it, it was ok for about a week, not as good as it was b4 tho. And then it came to the same stage again.
Now 3 days ago i did a MPFI swap on it, hoping that new dizzy, ECU would make it run better. Well, it pulls harder and such and it doesnt shake or anything, but the thing is that it still feels like before that when i punch it it spins but feels that its gonna blow up and doesnt wanna go. And the sound is pretty bad, with stock air box or with cone filter, sound of the engine is just so loud, it sounds like a turbo disel truck or something.
Not to mention that now i get o2 sode at any speed.
So, in the conclusion of my LONG story(Sorry about that) i think that the timing is off, so the car run to lean, like it get to much air, but why valves sound so bad? And i dont know what to do, so any help would be much appretiated.
THanks
Need help ASAP!
I got a 91 dx, it used to run like a champ, it was perfect, never had a single problem with a motor. About 7 months ago, i noticed my timing belt was way over due, so i got my local mechaninc to replase it. So everythging started from there... Car didnt wanna pull as hard as it used to, it really was out of power and sometimes wierdly enought it was kicking in after 3200, like it was getting louder and felt like it was spinning faster. So at the same time it didnt wanna go past 140 km/h, when before the belt change it was no problem. And when i was going 140+ my engine light would come on and it gave me o2 code...
I replased the o2 the first time but the codes didnt go away, every time i reset the ECU same picture after i go that fast on the ring road.
So i took it to the shop(mechanic that did the belt didnt even wanna look at it, he turned to be an *******...), so at the shop they said that dizzy was off and they fixed it, it was ok for about a week, not as good as it was b4 tho. And then it came to the same stage again.
Now 3 days ago i did a MPFI swap on it, hoping that new dizzy, ECU would make it run better. Well, it pulls harder and such and it doesnt shake or anything, but the thing is that it still feels like before that when i punch it it spins but feels that its gonna blow up and doesnt wanna go. And the sound is pretty bad, with stock air box or with cone filter, sound of the engine is just so loud, it sounds like a turbo disel truck or something.
Not to mention that now i get o2 sode at any speed.
So, in the conclusion of my LONG story(Sorry about that) i think that the timing is off, so the car run to lean, like it get to much air, but why valves sound so bad? And i dont know what to do, so any help would be much appretiated.
THanks
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 528
Likes: 0
From: Redding, CA, USA
For other people, since I just replied in a lengthy PM...
Your cam is a tooth off, Almost gauranteed.... It happens all the time, I fix it all the time for people. The distributor fix didn't work because you can't adjust it far enough to make up for it, and the computer will eventually adjust the advance in the distributor to fix the incorrect setting. The car will have much less power and it's not great to drive like that. Remove the spark plugs and the upper timing cover. With a socket through the crank pulley access hole in the left tire well, turn the motor until the #1 cylinder is TDC (the red mark on the crank pulley will line up with the tdc marks on the LOWER timing case when viewed from above. At the same time, a long thin... anything in the #1 spark plug hole should be at its highest point. If the screwdriver is at the top, but you can't see the timing marks, turn the motor over again (by hand, not with the starter ) When the crank is at TDC, the marks on the cam pulley should be aligned with the arrows on the cylinder head, or the valve cover seam. If you do a search on doing a timing belt in an ef civic, you should find pictures. Also, the TOP marking should be at the top, obviously..
If the crank is at TDC and the cam marks aren't perfectly aligned, you will have to adjust it. The easiest way to do it is just to MARK THE TIMING BELT where you need it to align with the cam pulley markings. Then remove the cam pulley bolt, and slide off the pulley. Move the cam pulley to where the markings are on the timing belt. Then rotate the CRANKSHAFT (holding the timing belt tight by hand) until you can slip the pulley onto the cam again... It's most likely only a tooth off. You will barely slip the pulley off, move it a tooth, have a friend bump the crank a few degrees to match, and slide the pulley back on....
If you aren't comfortable with any of this, don't do it... Have the mechanic who screwed it up in the first place fix it.. Better yet, if he won't / can't call your local BAR (bureau of auto repair) on his shop. That shop is responsible for fixing it, and all problems that occured because of that... You can sue them and win in small claims court if they don't pay.
Your cam is a tooth off, Almost gauranteed.... It happens all the time, I fix it all the time for people. The distributor fix didn't work because you can't adjust it far enough to make up for it, and the computer will eventually adjust the advance in the distributor to fix the incorrect setting. The car will have much less power and it's not great to drive like that. Remove the spark plugs and the upper timing cover. With a socket through the crank pulley access hole in the left tire well, turn the motor until the #1 cylinder is TDC (the red mark on the crank pulley will line up with the tdc marks on the LOWER timing case when viewed from above. At the same time, a long thin... anything in the #1 spark plug hole should be at its highest point. If the screwdriver is at the top, but you can't see the timing marks, turn the motor over again (by hand, not with the starter ) When the crank is at TDC, the marks on the cam pulley should be aligned with the arrows on the cylinder head, or the valve cover seam. If you do a search on doing a timing belt in an ef civic, you should find pictures. Also, the TOP marking should be at the top, obviously..
If the crank is at TDC and the cam marks aren't perfectly aligned, you will have to adjust it. The easiest way to do it is just to MARK THE TIMING BELT where you need it to align with the cam pulley markings. Then remove the cam pulley bolt, and slide off the pulley. Move the cam pulley to where the markings are on the timing belt. Then rotate the CRANKSHAFT (holding the timing belt tight by hand) until you can slip the pulley onto the cam again... It's most likely only a tooth off. You will barely slip the pulley off, move it a tooth, have a friend bump the crank a few degrees to match, and slide the pulley back on....
If you aren't comfortable with any of this, don't do it... Have the mechanic who screwed it up in the first place fix it.. Better yet, if he won't / can't call your local BAR (bureau of auto repair) on his shop. That shop is responsible for fixing it, and all problems that occured because of that... You can sue them and win in small claims court if they don't pay.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: San Francisco, CA
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