there are a ton of threads comparing the legacy gate and this one. this is not what this thread is about. this thread is for owners of the synchronic wastegate to ask questions and learn more about there wastegate. so please keep the debates out of this thread.

 

calling all synapse sack riders!

 

The instruction manual should be a good primer:

http://www.synapseengineering....l.pdf

Whether you're running the 40mm or the 50mm, these general guidelines should get you to your goal of fine tuning your system.

1- Start with the biggest valve seat diameter, lowest spring rate spring and no pre-load adjustment basically, out of the box

2- Put your boost source to ports C&D. So long as your manifold and WG placement isn't prone to creep, you should be seeing between 3-7 psi depending on the amount of ex manifold pressure you are making relative to intake manifold pressure (this is where the backpressure chart comes in handy, you can estimate how much backpressure you are likely running in the exhaust manifold.)

3- If there are no issues with boost creep, figure out what the max boost pressure is that you want to run, and you can take small steps towards that number by stepping up in port combinations D&A producing the highest boost pressure.

4- At your highest boost pressure setting, you can begin to start adjusting pre-load to see if it is a benefit to your system to require more intake and exhaust pressure to initially lift up the valve. With a downpipe that is vented to atmosphere it is easier to hear if you don't have enough spring force setup on the wastegate. When the wastegate starts to open, it will be considerably louder with a rough tone compared to having just the right amount of spring force pushing down on the valve. You will also feel that power isn't quite coming on as you expect.

5- As long as you are not having any issues with boost creep, or boost that varies across different loads and gears, you can change to the higher rate spring, which is Spring B.

You will probably get the most out of making these adjustments while on the dyno.

Late spooling turbo with no creep - run the smallest valve seat, add preload and use Spring B
Late spooling, then boost creep - largest valve seat, Spring B and add pre-load
boost creep - largest valve seat, Spring A and no pre-load
boost spiking - largest valve seat, Spring A and pre-load adjustment at your discretion
max boost tapers off by redline - start with the smallest valve seat, and add pre-load

With excessive boost creep, the only solution is really to make sure that the port for the WG is as big as it can be, and run the biggest WG you can. What you need is a big valve for whatever pressure there is at the inlet of the WG to act on as much surface area as it can.

If you're using a traditional boost controller, electronic, or manual. You can connect together the port combination that will produce the lowest boost setting you want for your system, and then simply Tee the boost controller onto that shared line and have it set your highest boost level.

 

Great thread Peter, I"m sure I'll be posting on here when I get mine installed and play around w/ it to see what's the best settings for my setup.


Vic

 

I plan on running 15 psi, so what ports would i use and what valve seat would u recommend?

 

Which engine and displacement? You should also post what size turbine A/R ratio you plan on running.

 

Can the actuator housing be clocked
Can i move where the vac ports are and keep the intake/exhaust at the same spot
With the pictures in the following thread can i have the ports facing up instead of fwd?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1985734

 

You can clock the top cover of the actuator that is bolted down by every 72 degrees. The bottom ports can be clocked every 120 degrees, but it requires you to take the piston off and unscrew the bottom actuator from the casting. If you can avoid it, don't take it apart, since there are a few sealing treatments in place that you would have to reseal. The ports are recessed to avoid having them protrude so much.

Clocking is unfortunately one of the weak suits of the design. It can be done, but quite a bit of work with resealing on when reassembling.

 

i will be running my wastegate on my B18C1 with a 60 trim turbo .63ar
which spring and seat do you think i should start with and would be the fastest reacting?

 

It all depends on your turbo manifold really. Always start with the biggest seat, and make sure you aren't seeing any creep. With no creep in sight, I suspect that Valve Seat A, the smaller one, would work best. Start with Spring A, and add pre-load.

The concept to understand here is that you can't make a turbo spool faster with all else being equal. But if there is some inefficiency that isn't allowing you to get the most out of the turbo, then you can work to tune that out with settings.

 

I'm running a b18c1 with a 83mm bore and a gt3076r .82ar turbo.

 

sorry to get off topic here but Peter i have a bunch of people asking me where to get the gates from can you tell me some canadian suppliers?

 

Have them contact Daryll at http://www.ultimate-racing.com/ for Canada

 

The GT series has a very efficient turbine, and coupled with an efficient ex manifold could be very low backpressure. But with an .82 on a B18 will spool later for sure.

You should be running the smallest valve seat which is 40 mm. Start with Spring A, the lighter spring and give it all the pre-load you can. If you don't experience creep with that combo. Run, Spring B without pre-load, and then add pre-load as you feel necessary.

 

only problem i have is that i cannot adjust preload because the screw is broken. i called u about this and u said u would send it to me but never received it. is there any way i can purchase one from u?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crave13k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">only problem i have is that i cannot adjust preload because the screw is broken. i called u about this and u said u would send it to me but never received it. is there any way i can purchase one from u?</TD></TR></TABLE>

what is the thread pitch?

 

Jon, you'll get the replacement tomorrow.

BTW, there's no need for anyone to coat their WGs. Both the casting and the actuator already have thermal coatings.

 

quick question. u said i could use port c and a to obtain roughly 15 pounds of boost. what port would i plug my boost controller to?

 

anyone have one hooked up and running yet?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akira712 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone have one hooked up and running yet?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

mine is on, but my alternator took a **** a couple days ago so i cant drive it or make a video or anything. i ordered a new one and im just waiting on it to get here.

 

You can always use port A as you would use any top port on any wastegate with a boost controller.

There are 2 ways to use a boost controller:

1) As a bleed boost controller where you tee off the signal line to the wastegate and bleed it to raise boost. In this approach, you would come up with the port combination that you would use to have your lowest boost setting and then connect the boost controller to the line that feeds before the tee to get your highest boost level.

2) As a boost controller that applies pressure to the top of the wastegate. You would use port A as the top of the wastegate. Alternatively, you could also use Port B and move the fitting to that port if you want the boost controller to have more aggressive control. Then choose the port C, D or C&D to produce your desired minimum boost pressure level.

 

Update for advanced boost control strategy

I recommend that you only use this configuration if you are an experienced tuner. Using port B has the potential, in all but one configuration, for the wastegate not to open under boost. This is why we don't supply a fitting for it or have it in the general instructions.

Hondata or AEM EMS or Motec or other ECU using a GM boost control solenoid -

1) Determine which of the six combinations of Port A, Port B and Port C you would like to use to produce your lowest desired boost pressure.

2) Connect a boost signal source to GM solenoid input, connect the output to Port B (unused port).

Ideally, 1 and 2 would have their own individual port on the intake manifold.

I have to credit Harvey at Holeshot Racing for nailing down and testing this configuration. You know your sh*t Harv, he understood it in the first 5 minutes he played with the Synchronic Wastegate.

 

It looks like it hooks up like a typical electronic boost control solenoid/wastegate setup. What is different about it? Manifold pressure to one of the bottom ports and PWM controlled manifold pressure to the top of the piston?

 

With the Synchronic geometry you have a port dedicated for the PWM solenoid or CO2 with the NLR controller.

On the same spring you can dial in 6 different base boost pressures, adjust pre-load, adjust flow and valve rising rate per pound of boost. And then in addition to that regulate target boost using Port B and a boost solenoid.

Just forget about it Tony1 Synchronic WG isn't for you, you don't have to get it, we're not reinventing the wheel.