Hi there,

I have milled my head and block for 0.67mm (0.026398") to be exactly.
But now i need to set the timing and camshaft TDC for 100%.
So i used some adjustable camgears.
But how do i set the timing of my camshafts?
I've been told that i need to put a 5mm pin in to the top of the camshaft plate.
So i lock the camshafts, is that right? and if it move's a bit how to see if it is in place?
I have my crankshaft in TDC. but i need to retard timing of the camgears so they will match with the crankshaft and timing.

Can someone tell me how to fix this right?

 

h22's don't have the place for the 5mm pins.

set the sprockets to zero. try to line everything up. the best way to set the sprockets would be on a dyno. Or you can look up the normal spec for the timing. I think you should be able to find the if X mm's are milled off you need to set the sprockets at this.

 

i see that there are 4 hole's in the plate.
And that i can put a 5mm pin in.
If it didn't got milled you could see if you camshafts where in postition.
There are holes in the camshafts.

But you say i need to set the timing @ the dyno?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kulrevon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">h22's don't have the place for the 5mm pins. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yes they do

OP: you need to degree the cams in to get it right.

 

but i have some space left when i put a 5mm pin in.

I can move the 5 mm pin from left to right, so how do i now when they are perfect?

Or do i need a special 5mm tool for it?

 

my obd1 jdm h22. I am almost positive does not have the holes where the h23s do.

where are the h22 holes. because the rails do not have holes in them.

And the oem service manual says nothing about the dowl pins for the h22 only for the h23.

service manual for the h23 says just use 5mm pin punches.

can i see pictures of the holes?

 

you can see the allen wrench in the hole in the exh cam there. The hole on the intake cam side is visible also.

FYI: Don't use an allen wrench, lol, it broke right after I took that pic.

OP: I didn't realize they were stock cams, loosen the gears, put the pins in the holes, line them up at TDC then tighten the gears, then slide the TBelt on.

 

those holes arn't like the h23 5mm holes. I am sure that is not supposed to be used that way.

Because if it was supposed to be used that way it would be in the factory manual which it is not.

The h23 5mm holes are a nice slip fit with a 5 mm punch. these are not.

But if it gets the job done.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kulrevon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">those holes arn't like the h23 5mm holes. I am sure that is not supposed to be used that way.

Because if it was supposed to be used that way it would be in the factory manual which it is not.

The h23 5mm holes are a nice slip fit with a 5 mm punch. these are not.

But if it gets the job done.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I don't think the holes in the cams and the plates are a coincedence...they work fine with a stronger tool such as a punch.

They might be in the manual, I could swear I remember reading something about them.

 

There arn't I checked.

There are holes on the h23 closer to the cam grears that the manual says are for punches. It doesnt say anything about the h22 holes.

 

but i can check the alignment of the camshafts and the crank with the holes?

So i'm sure that i don't get troubles with my timing of the camshaft?

 

Yes, if you line those holes up the cams will be at TDC.

 

damn if its a stock motor I'd just throw the stock cam gears back on and call it a day. Yeah theres deffinately pins there, but unless you have something to fit in there tight I think they are kinda worthless for dialing in the cam timing.

A degree wheel would obviously be the way to go to get it perfect, in any case the cam gear will need to be advanced to compensate, probably only a half a degree or so.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rosko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn if its a stock motor I'd just throw the stock cam gears back on and call it a day. Yeah theres deffinately pins there, but unless you have something to fit in there tight I think they are kinda worthless for dialing in the cam timing.

A degree wheel would obviously be the way to go to get it perfect, in any case the cam gear will need to be advanced to compensate, probably only a half a degree or so.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would think using the rough estimate of the pin would be better than just using stock gears, when you mill it advances the cam timing, correct?

 

if i'm correct the head will be closer to the crank.
So the length of the timing belt will be a bit shorter and make's the camgears go a bit more to left (clockwise) because the length is shorter.

I can see it's about 0.5 degree difference by now.

So i'm going to try to make it perfect lineup with my crank.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would think using the rough estimate of the pin would be better than just using stock gears, when you mill it advances the cam timing, correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>

no it retards it... it creates slack in the belt between the cams and the crank, and to take that slack out without moving the crank the cam gears will have to be rotated clockwise to the right (retarded) therefore the cam itself needs to be adjusted back counter clockwise to the left to make up for it (advanced)