car sputters at normal idle but with a higher current drawing accessories on it runs smooth
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From: Long Point Beach, ontario, canada
after warmed up, motor idles at 750 rpm like normal, but sputters. when i turn on some accessories, idle goes up a touch like normal and sputtering completely disappears. (its nothing to do with the rpms going up with accessories on, which would mask weird idles, I know with higher rpms any irregularities in idle usually diminish) but like i said, rpms don't raise that much with the few accessories i turn on to make sputtering stop. any idea? if i turn on head lights or a couple higher current drawing accessories that's when sputtering goes away. Could it be the brand of gas? i use only 91 but the companies i purchase gas from varies depending on convenience
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From: Long Point Beach, ontario, canada
lol
won't turning up the the idle screw just mask whats wrong?
ill start by cleaning out iacv though, but i did that b4 to correct other previous problems that long passed.
the grease in my header makes me go faster though! lol
yeah yeah, no more dum questions from me. u guys r 2 tempermental and i happen to need all your inputs to make my ride get me from a to b, so ill try not to upset you women lol
oh its idling around 750 though, isn't that where it should be without accessories on for a m transmission
won't turning up the the idle screw just mask whats wrong?
ill start by cleaning out iacv though, but i did that b4 to correct other previous problems that long passed.
the grease in my header makes me go faster though! lol
yeah yeah, no more dum questions from me. u guys r 2 tempermental and i happen to need all your inputs to make my ride get me from a to b, so ill try not to upset you women lol

oh its idling around 750 though, isn't that where it should be without accessories on for a m transmission
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From: Long Point Beach, ontario, canada
people do use "turning up the idle screw" to cover some of their problems, but the actual idle adjustment screw when opened just allows more air into tb naturally to raise the idle mechanically (not electronically like iacv). so turning up idle adjustment screw only really fixes any thing Other than electronic or fuel related problems. using it for any other purpose is just like i said "trying to mask the problems."
oh one more thing, i just let my iacv sit dry for the weekend when i cleaned it 6 weeks ago, but im going to clean it during week. any way i can dry it faster safely? (inside and out)
oh one more thing, i just let my iacv sit dry for the weekend when i cleaned it 6 weeks ago, but im going to clean it during week. any way i can dry it faster safely? (inside and out)
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toss it in a microwave...dry it right up quick.
i dont know why boneheads try to make things more complicated then they actually are, I never said make it permanent, you numbskull, I said, turn it up and report back...but mr tryingsoundlikeiknowwhatthefuckimtalkingabout cant just shut up and do it. its called process of elimination.
i dont know why boneheads try to make things more complicated then they actually are, I never said make it permanent, you numbskull, I said, turn it up and report back...but mr tryingsoundlikeiknowwhatthefuckimtalkingabout cant just shut up and do it. its called process of elimination.
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Thread Starter
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From: Long Point Beach, ontario, canada
yes... the microwave, that's brilliant! maybe ill dry my wet cat that way too
stationary heater it is.
(you could have at least said clothes dryer, that would have been more humorous)
(clunk, clunk clunk, clunk lol)

Modified by mattsnooz at 3:28 PM 5/16/2007
stationary heater it is.
(you could have at least said clothes dryer, that would have been more humorous)
(clunk, clunk clunk, clunk lol)

Modified by mattsnooz at 3:28 PM 5/16/2007
Thread Starter
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From: Long Point Beach, ontario, canada
look, im sorry i rub you the wrong way but i already did that and isolated it down to either a fuel problem or electronic problem. i've played with screw and found that out already. so iacv could be a problem, but like i said i cleaned it out well already and fixed all other idle situations. by raising my idle the sputtering like i said goes away but what does that really tell me than?
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From: Long Point Beach, ontario, canada
battery is brand new
alt stands and holds at 14.6 volts all the way up powerband
dissconnect battery also, same thing.. alt holds strong
alt stands and holds at 14.6 volts all the way up powerband
dissconnect battery also, same thing.. alt holds strong
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From: Long Point Beach, ontario, canada
okay, well thanks. plugs new and almost spotless after 3 months, wires new, caps cleaned and tested to be perfect.
what about the gas itself could different companies have shitty gas or what?
what about the gas itself could different companies have shitty gas or what?
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From: Long Point Beach, ontario, canada
haven't done that yet. that sounds more close to what could be the problem could be. I've never done a fuel filter yet. I've done almost everything but that now ffs. release pressure, (put rag over bleeder) then disconnect lines, pull out filter, replace, and that's pretty much it right?
another weird thing i noticed now after driving home from ball hockey, sputtering is gone when i turn on defroster. i turn on rear window defroster. RPM's drop about 100 to maybe 675 700, but the sputtering is completely gone. runs immaculate like it literally just rolled off lot. its nothing to do with what level rpms are at. if its at 800, 900, it sputters less when higher. over 1000 its gone completely (or like i said if i turn rear window defroster)
another weird thing i noticed now after driving home from ball hockey, sputtering is gone when i turn on defroster. i turn on rear window defroster. RPM's drop about 100 to maybe 675 700, but the sputtering is completely gone. runs immaculate like it literally just rolled off lot. its nothing to do with what level rpms are at. if its at 800, 900, it sputters less when higher. over 1000 its gone completely (or like i said if i turn rear window defroster)
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