VTEC Doesn't work, uh oh! $20 via PayPal to whoever can help me fix it :)
Hey everyone, I have a 1992 Honda Civic VX (hatch back).
I have a B16A2 (second generation) and the VTEC doesn't kick in at any RPM.
The check engine light is on, and I have a P30 ECU. We tried using a P28 ECU and it still didn't kick in.
My friend put the car into diagnostic mode and looked a code up online or something, and he told me it was a pressure valve or something, and said that I can just replace the VTEC solenoid to fix it. Is that true?
Is there anything you guys can recommend me to check for before I buy a new solenoid, to make sure the old one is actually done for?
I'll give anyone $20 via PayPal if you can help me figure it out, without buying a new VTEC solenoid.
Thanks a ton!
I have a B16A2 (second generation) and the VTEC doesn't kick in at any RPM.
The check engine light is on, and I have a P30 ECU. We tried using a P28 ECU and it still didn't kick in.
My friend put the car into diagnostic mode and looked a code up online or something, and he told me it was a pressure valve or something, and said that I can just replace the VTEC solenoid to fix it. Is that true?
Is there anything you guys can recommend me to check for before I buy a new solenoid, to make sure the old one is actually done for?
I'll give anyone $20 via PayPal if you can help me figure it out, without buying a new VTEC solenoid.
Thanks a ton!
Because I'd rather not have to replace the solenoid 
He says the CEL code is code 22, which is VTEC Pressure Valve.
So what does this mean, is there a solution aside from replacing the solenoid?

He says the CEL code is code 22, which is VTEC Pressure Valve.
So what does this mean, is there a solution aside from replacing the solenoid?
Yea just check all of your wiring and make sure its all connected and running to the ecu properly. And then if still no go then check this out and maybe youll find a good deal on a solenoid.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
Just copy and paste em in your browser and watch them until there about to end. Really thats not much help but im not sure what else to tell you. Im gonna look around and try to help you out some more though man.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
Just copy and paste em in your browser and watch them until there about to end. Really thats not much help but im not sure what else to tell you. Im gonna look around and try to help you out some more though man.
Thanks for the help.
Could it be the "Oil Pressure Switch"? It seems the most logical solution, because we just changed the oil yesterday.
Could it be the "Oil Pressure Switch"? It seems the most logical solution, because we just changed the oil yesterday.
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Really.. I would prolly check the oil pressure its self cause it seems like alot of people have had to low of oil pressure and there vtec wont kick in because of that. But im still tryin to find some more for ya.
haha, if it is the "Oil Pressure Switch", how would I fix that, anyone know?
Thanks for the help, btw.
Thanks for the help, btw.
CAUSES OF LOW OIL PRESSURE
In a high mileage engine, low oil pressure is often due to a combination of worn main and rod bearings and crankshaft journals. The oil pump itself does not create pressure. It produces flow and the resistance to that flow produces pressure. Resistance is created by the orifices in the engine block through which the oil flows, and the amount of clearance between the bearings and crankshaft journals. As the bearings wear, clearances increase allowing increased flow which reduces pressure.
Okay, so you already knew that. But what you may not realize is that it doesn't take much of an increase in bearing clearances to cause a noticeable drop in oil pressure as well as noise. This applies to brand new engines as well as high mileage ones.
Excessive bearing clearances (more than about .001 inch per inch of diameter of the crankshaft journal) can cause up to a 20 percent or greater drop in oil pressure, which may in turn have an adverse effect on lubrication elsewhere in the engine (such as the camshaft and upper valvetrain, especially in overhead cam engines). Whether the excessive clearances are due to normal wear or "loose" assembly tolerances makes no difference because the end result is exactly the same. Excessive bearing clearances will also increase engine noise and pounding, which over time can lead to bearing fatigue and failure.
Recommended bearing clearances vary a great deal depending on the engine application, but many engine rebuilders today aim for about .001 to .002 inch clearance in the main and rod bearings. This compares to as much as .004 inch of clearance that may be present in some new engines from the factory!
maybe that helps, not sure i just searched and copy, paste. didnt even read it. so there you have it
it also said one way to check the oil pressure is by the dipstick, im an idiot for not even thinkin of that.
In a high mileage engine, low oil pressure is often due to a combination of worn main and rod bearings and crankshaft journals. The oil pump itself does not create pressure. It produces flow and the resistance to that flow produces pressure. Resistance is created by the orifices in the engine block through which the oil flows, and the amount of clearance between the bearings and crankshaft journals. As the bearings wear, clearances increase allowing increased flow which reduces pressure.
Okay, so you already knew that. But what you may not realize is that it doesn't take much of an increase in bearing clearances to cause a noticeable drop in oil pressure as well as noise. This applies to brand new engines as well as high mileage ones.
Excessive bearing clearances (more than about .001 inch per inch of diameter of the crankshaft journal) can cause up to a 20 percent or greater drop in oil pressure, which may in turn have an adverse effect on lubrication elsewhere in the engine (such as the camshaft and upper valvetrain, especially in overhead cam engines). Whether the excessive clearances are due to normal wear or "loose" assembly tolerances makes no difference because the end result is exactly the same. Excessive bearing clearances will also increase engine noise and pounding, which over time can lead to bearing fatigue and failure.
Recommended bearing clearances vary a great deal depending on the engine application, but many engine rebuilders today aim for about .001 to .002 inch clearance in the main and rod bearings. This compares to as much as .004 inch of clearance that may be present in some new engines from the factory!
maybe that helps, not sure i just searched and copy, paste. didnt even read it. so there you have it
it also said one way to check the oil pressure is by the dipstick, im an idiot for not even thinkin of that.
you can bypass the oil pressure switch,if you need help doing it im in lincoln CA and will give you a hand for free
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1812135 take a look at this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GarageAlchemist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol.. god you kids are dumb. I would take a guess you didn't put in the right amount of oil, drain, remove filter, and try again.
</TD></TR></TABLE>You should post this same quote in every thread!
Finally allowed to post again, had to wait 24 hours because of this trial status.
Yes, we changed the oil and oil filter. The level of oil is where it should be.
Winlight, do you have AIM/MSN/Yahoo? I can't send PM's with this trial status.
Alright, here's the situation. I looked at my VTEC solenoid, and there is no green thing sticking out of it like I see in all these pictures on eBay and what not.
Here's a picture to illustrate what I mean;

So where is my oil pressure switch?
I saw this oil pressure switch bypass assembly on eBay, the seller informs me that it will fix error code 22 that I am getting. Only problem is, I don't know if it will plug in correctly to the slot where the switch should be (check it out, doesn't look like something can plug into there).
Thanks for the help everyone!
Yes, we changed the oil and oil filter. The level of oil is where it should be.
Winlight, do you have AIM/MSN/Yahoo? I can't send PM's with this trial status.
Alright, here's the situation. I looked at my VTEC solenoid, and there is no green thing sticking out of it like I see in all these pictures on eBay and what not.
Here's a picture to illustrate what I mean;

So where is my oil pressure switch?
I saw this oil pressure switch bypass assembly on eBay, the seller informs me that it will fix error code 22 that I am getting. Only problem is, I don't know if it will plug in correctly to the slot where the switch should be (check it out, doesn't look like something can plug into there).Thanks for the help everyone!
Steps to take:
1. Take off vtec solenoid
2. Clean inside of solenoid and screen
3. bolt it back on.
4. Check your oil level (if its not at level put oil in)
5. Check oil Pressure.
6. Send me $20 via paypal..
thanks
1. Take off vtec solenoid
2. Clean inside of solenoid and screen
3. bolt it back on.
4. Check your oil level (if its not at level put oil in)
5. Check oil Pressure.
6. Send me $20 via paypal..
thanks


