So my swap is almost done and it is down to the last few things. Filled with fuilds and all of that jaz. Crank it and it will crank but wont roll over. It is getting gas, and we checked to see if it is getting power to the dizzy(not while cranking) and it is getting power. Anyone have an idea why it is not turning over?

 

I forgot to add we hooked up a timing light to check the timing, and it didnt light up(ie no spark)

 

More details? Did you do an conversion? What OBD ECU are you running, and what is the distributor from?

Janos

 

the harness is a rwire harness for vtec, it is obdo with a pr3 ecu, distributor should be stock as far as i know, and my car was already an si so it was already mpfi

 

Pull off one of the spark plugs and hold it close to the valve cover and see if you can see any sparks while cranking.

Janos

 

OK will do. If there is no spark do you think it is the distributor? The plugs and wires are new.

 

Also check to see if your injectors are fried, I had the same symptoms and my problem was old shitty injectors.

 

how do you check if the injectors are good?
also we hear the pump turn on and we see that we are not getting spark. Just curious how the injectors would effect the spark?

thanks

 

vaccum? and maybe check all the grounds. even the thermo ground can cause this. happened to me

 

there is a ground on the thrmostat? didnt know that I will go make one for it! Vacume should be good. I did what people told me to do and run one to the map and one to the pfr and to block the rest off.

does anyone know the proper place to check resistance on the dist? We checked it at the clip and get some resistance and then checked the 2 screws right under the cap and we have no resistance.


Modified by sazdasl at 11:11 AM 5/13/2007

 

so we took the coil to autozone and they said it is good. Friend talked about an ignition module. just pulled that but what should it read?

 

bump anyone have an idea?

 

it sounds like a bad distributor to me but check the black wire with the yellow stripe that runs to the dizzy before the clip with a volt meter and see if you are getting a signal to the dizzy itself..you will have to crank the motor whyle checkin this wire...has the pr3 worked in other cars or is this the first time it is being used???? if so try the ecu in a crx or civic with a b series motor if you can...

 

the two things that ti would check is like said above make sure the fuel injectors are not seized up as i have ran into that problem on a jdm b16 also...... 2nd thing is double check all your grounds, you may even hhave to add a few extra ones as i had to do that on my b16a also

 

I’d say replace the coil and igniter, I have had auto parts store tell me or friends the some electrical part was good only to find out that it was a POS. you can use and igniter from a 91si they are like half price and work fine, so if you pulled out your old si engine just change out the igniter and give it a try.

 

I will look in to adding more grounds.

As far as I know the ecu has ran in other cars, it was chipped and i bought it off someone localy, but will see if i can try it in someone elses ride.

I will be getting a differnt igniter tomorrow i will look in to getting a coil too!

 

check the timing, as in top dead center and that the timing belt is not off from tdc. had this problem when i put my b16 in my hatch

 

redid the timing today, and it was spot on. I have heard you can make a 90-91 integra LS disty fit what do you have to do to it? also my buddy suggested to swap to a pm6 ecu to see if it was my ecu. Had one code 20. Which confused me cuz the wire you pull out for the knock sensor is what causes the code 20. Anyways I got fed up with it and went home.