Unclearable Code 4 (Crank angle)
I cannot seem to clear my code 4.
I've done EVERYTHING possible, and it still gets thrown!
I've done:
-Changed the dizzy with another one
-Changed the ECU
-Checked wires, they are good
-Pinned B10 with B12 to make sure I didn't have them backwards, either way, code 4.
Car's been timed, other then code 4 it's good to go. I cannot seem to clear it. Can anyone give me any suggestions?
I've done EVERYTHING possible, and it still gets thrown!
I've done:
-Changed the dizzy with another one
-Changed the ECU
-Checked wires, they are good
-Pinned B10 with B12 to make sure I didn't have them backwards, either way, code 4.
Car's been timed, other then code 4 it's good to go. I cannot seem to clear it. Can anyone give me any suggestions?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Janos Lin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's the code stamped on the distributor?
Janos</TD></TR></TABLE>
I should of mentioned I'm running and OBD1 dizzy on and OBD0 ecu.
As for the stamp, I dunno what I'm looking for for that.
Janos</TD></TR></TABLE>
I should of mentioned I'm running and OBD1 dizzy on and OBD0 ecu.
As for the stamp, I dunno what I'm looking for for that.
The stamp is on one of the bolt ears, where it mates up to the head, usually on the top bolt ear. It may be a sticker but it's usually stamped.
Was it running before this code 4 or did it show up at the same time as the swap?
Janos
Was it running before this code 4 or did it show up at the same time as the swap?
Janos
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Janos Lin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The stamp is on one of the bolt ears, where it mates up to the head, usually on the top bolt ear. It may be a sticker but it's usually stamped.
Was it running before this code 4 or did it show up at the same time as the swap?
Janos</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was running full obd1 but a harness fire happens (positive 12V got loose in the harness and metled part of it). I replaced my full harness with a factory OBD0 harness from the same year Si. It started up great, and only threw code 4.
I only had OBD1 dizzys kicking around. And the harness had the dizzy plugs cut off when I bought it. So I wired my OBD1 plugs in.
Stamp code is TD-6#U
# number has a sticker over it, and I can't take it off to see what's under. What does it have to do with anything tho.
Was it running before this code 4 or did it show up at the same time as the swap?
Janos</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was running full obd1 but a harness fire happens (positive 12V got loose in the harness and metled part of it). I replaced my full harness with a factory OBD0 harness from the same year Si. It started up great, and only threw code 4.
I only had OBD1 dizzys kicking around. And the harness had the dizzy plugs cut off when I bought it. So I wired my OBD1 plugs in.
Stamp code is TD-6#U
# number has a sticker over it, and I can't take it off to see what's under. What does it have to do with anything tho.
how did your car stat up with a obd-0 ecu and a obd-1 distributor thats what i want to know cause i tried that before and my car only ran with obd-1 ecu and obd-1 distributor
Well the code tells me what kind if distributor you have, and from what you've given me, its either a B series VTEC dizzy or a H series. Gonna assume you have the B series VTEC one then.
How did you check the wiring to make sure that it was going down the correct path?
Janos
How did you check the wiring to make sure that it was going down the correct path?
Janos
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I believe you need to retain the same OBD version for the ECU and distributor anyway. I believe the OBD-1 has a different CYP sensor 20 tooth sensor vs 16 for the OBD-0. When I find my manual I'll know the exact number.
Janos
Janos
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Janos Lin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe you need to retain the same OBD version for the ECU and distributor anyway. I believe the OBD-1 has a different CYP sensor 20 tooth sensor vs 16 for the OBD-0. When I find my manual I'll know the exact number.
Janos</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ya the dizzy was on my B16. When it died I needed to get my car running again so I threw an LS in there for now. The car got rotted thru winter and I'm just trying to make it last long enough so I can use it as the beater.
I was told you could run any dizzy on any OBD system since they are all the same but if they aren't I'll have to see what I can do. I have a OBD0 LS dizzy lying around but I'd have to buy it...and putting money into this car is the last thing I wanna do.
Janos</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ya the dizzy was on my B16. When it died I needed to get my car running again so I threw an LS in there for now. The car got rotted thru winter and I'm just trying to make it last long enough so I can use it as the beater.
I was told you could run any dizzy on any OBD system since they are all the same but if they aren't I'll have to see what I can do. I have a OBD0 LS dizzy lying around but I'd have to buy it...and putting money into this car is the last thing I wanna do.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludesrv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I was told you could run any dizzy on any OBD system since they are all the same </TD></TR></TABLE>
thats wrong, obd 0 dizzy runs with only obd0 ecu, obd1 dizzy runs with only obd1 ecu. i tried it alot never even start
I was told you could run any dizzy on any OBD system since they are all the same </TD></TR></TABLE>
thats wrong, obd 0 dizzy runs with only obd0 ecu, obd1 dizzy runs with only obd1 ecu. i tried it alot never even start
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zenon8890 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thats wrong, obd 0 dizzy runs with only obd0 ecu, obd1 dizzy runs with only obd1 ecu. i tried it alot never even start</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lol. My starts, runs, infact I drove it to the store and back like 5 minutes ago. I ran an OBD2 dizzy on my car for....6 months when I was obd1. So, your statement is wrong.
From what I've read, you can run any dizzy on any OBD.
I'll try a third dizzy. Then I'm gonna run new wires. If that doesn't do it, I'm gonna torch the thing.
thats wrong, obd 0 dizzy runs with only obd0 ecu, obd1 dizzy runs with only obd1 ecu. i tried it alot never even start</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lol. My starts, runs, infact I drove it to the store and back like 5 minutes ago. I ran an OBD2 dizzy on my car for....6 months when I was obd1. So, your statement is wrong.
From what I've read, you can run any dizzy on any OBD.
I'll try a third dizzy. Then I'm gonna run new wires. If that doesn't do it, I'm gonna torch the thing.
ok if u could, what exactly u did to the dizzy to make it work?! and how did u wire them?! my dizzy is dead for a month and i still didnt find an obd 0 dizzy for my si rex, i have many obd1 dizzies laying around
Ok. From what I read the OBD1 dizzy shoots out 24hz, OBD0 reads 16hz. Thus why the code won't clear.
Damn. Looks like you guys where right. OBD1 and OBD2 run the same **** tho, so adleast that part is correct. God, I hate OBD0. I should stick to newer cars.
I'm buying an LS dizzy now, I'll just run obd1 plugs lol.
Damn. Looks like you guys where right. OBD1 and OBD2 run the same **** tho, so adleast that part is correct. God, I hate OBD0. I should stick to newer cars.
I'm buying an LS dizzy now, I'll just run obd1 plugs lol.




